I pulled the steering box out to get it rebuilt and also want to replace the rag joint. Any suggestions on the best source to procure the rag joint? My internet research does not show any rag joints that look like the one I pulled off the car.
Quote from: calspcl on May 06, 2019, 11:28:48 PM
I pulled the steering box out to get it rebuilt and also want to replace the rag joint. Any suggestions on the best source to procure the rag joint? My internet research does not show any rag joints that look like the one I pulled off the car.
Does your car have tilt? If it does then it takes a special rag joint which may explain why you are finding it hard to find a picture. The tilt rag joint is designed to receive a splined end that is clamped on one side with a star bolt and a key way with a similar clamp and bolt on the other side to tighten it up . Here is one on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-69-SHELBY-MUSTANG-COUGAR-TILT-AWAY-RAG-JOINT-FoMoCo-5/233162604680 .
Yes its tilt Bob, spline on one end and notched on the other side for the tilt column shaft. Mine looks good, but is old and I would like to eliminate any slop in the system.
Does anyone restore these with rivets? I would like to keep it stock appearance. All the kits I find use bolts to replace the rivets....
Dan
Quote from: calspcl on May 07, 2019, 01:33:45 PM
Yes its tilt Bob, spline on one end and notched on the other side for the tilt column shaft. Mine looks good, but is old and I would like to eliminate any slop in the system.
Does anyone restore these with rivets? I would like to keep it stock appearance. All the kits I find use bolts to replace the rivets....
Dan
The non tilt rag joint is splined on one side and the other side looks like the picture below. When you said that it was notched on the other side then that is not a tilt column but a non tilt column with a rag joint like below. Regardless unless the rubber is severely cracked you should be fine. If concerned about a loosened rivet you could use a air hammer/impact chisel to peen the rivets tighter. I have only seen polyurethane replacement joints which look very after market when installed.
68 rag joint splined one side. Other side D fitting not splined
I did not convey that last post very well ?? (dang computers)
Bob, the link you sent is what I have.
Tim, that describes the shape well.
I was trying to find a replacement that looked original. I could not find one. The other option was to drill the rivets out, replace the rubber joint and bolt the halves back together. The bolt option does not look original, I am trying to stick to that theme.
thx-Dan
Take extra care when re-installing the two bolts that secure the rag joint that you do not cross thread or strip them. Should the threads get stripped, over time the rag joint will work loose and not "clamp" on the steering wheel shaft and/or the splined shaft coming from the steering box. When that happens, the steering wheel turns but the car does not. Talk about an "oh sh*t" moment. There are torque specs for the two bolts so do not over tighten. My 1968 Ford Shop Manual says, "Steering Shaft Flex Coupling Bolt" should be torqued to 25-35 ft-lbs. Any Mustang parts supplier that sells AMK hardware should have these bolts if needed.
Jeff
Quote from: TLea on May 07, 2019, 08:13:18 PM
68 rag joint splined one side. Other side D fitting not splined
I amended my posts to reflect that not splined on both sides but clamped on both sides .Thank you for the helpful catch.
This is the way I detailed my rag joint.