I think there was quite a bit of discussion about 1967 ten spokes on the old forum, but of course I didn't retain it.....my mind has been too occupied with 1966 cars. Can someone help show and explain any differences from original and reproduction 1967 ten spokes? Are there manufacture changes? How do you quickly identify between the two? Counter sunk holes or spoke differences, machining differences, part numbers?
Thank you.
I found some great information here. http://www.thecoralsnake.com/spokes.HTML (http://www.thecoralsnake.com/spokes.HTML) ;D
The great site that keeps on giving. Thank you for posting 10 years ago Pete!
Is it my eyes or are tapered spokes vs. straight spokes very slightly? Hard to see from my computer screen.
Quote from: silverton_ford on August 09, 2019, 10:49:19 PM
I found some great information here. http://www.thecoralsnake.com/spokes.HTML (http://www.thecoralsnake.com/spokes.HTML) ;D
The great site that keeps on giving. Thank you for posting 10 years ago Pete!
Is it my eyes or are tapered spokes vs. straight spokes very slightly? Hard to see from my computer screen.
I suppose the difference can be viewed as a matter of perception . To me for instance the tapered vs. straight is more then slight and very visible.Once you have seen a few comparisons it is hard to overlook the difference.
QuoteThere is also a second version of the original wheel. It has no raised area on the backside, it also has no part number casting. The other features are the same.
That is the style that came on #1183. Plenty of taper compared to curent offerings.
Here is another that could be used by the group as part of the exercise
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/12/6-090819232053.jpeg)
Valve stem is countersunk
Non tapers spoke wheel
Original not countersunk valve stem hole and taper for lug nut
Valve stem between spokes.
Countersunk valve stem hole with spot face for lug washer, lug has a shank
Original style 10-spoke Lug nuts
vs
much later version with shank and washer
'67 10 spoke rear pad, sorry a bit out-of-focus
vs
rear pad that is made to work with '68 caliper
another of later version 10-spoke note countersunk valve stem hole and spot-faced lug hole
and with lug nut
Great information! Thank you. I have learned a lot here. Thank you.
I have heard that some of the originals did not have a part # on the back of one of the spokes. Is this true ?
Quote from: Fast Fords on August 10, 2019, 01:48:16 PM
I have heard that some of the originals did not have a part # on the back of one of the spokes. Is this true ?
Yes this is true. I believe that the ones with out the numbers are the second version that is supposed to clear ( from experience some will, some won't ) the 68 & up single piston K/H calipers.
Rodney
Happy to update the info if we can come to an agreement
Hi was there a difference in rim sizes?
Quote from: 67BoB on August 10, 2019, 05:44:47 PM
Hi was there a difference in rim sizes?
If you mean wheel width - no all 7 inch
Hi, 14 or 15 inch
only the '66 version of 10-spokes were 14 inch wheel diameter, all the '67 versions were 15 inch wheel diameter
Great thread!
Thanks for all the photo variations JD,
Thanks for the webpage Pete,
and thanks to everyone else who contributed bit and pieces of info...Good stuff here!!
I was informed by a knowledgeable '67 guy who told me that some of the '67 10 spoke wheels did not come with part #'s on the back side of the rim but were actually original '67 10 spoke wheels. Can anyone confirm this or deny this ?
Quote from: Fast Fords on August 10, 2019, 09:21:42 PM
I was informed by a knowledgeable '67 guy who told me that some of the '67 10 spoke wheels did not come with part #'s on the back side of the rim but were actually original '67 10 spoke wheels. Can anyone confirm this or deny this ?
Read reply #10 .
Quote from: KR500 on August 10, 2019, 03:50:50 PM
Quote from: Fast Fords on August 10, 2019, 01:48:16 PM
I have heard that some of the originals did not have a part # on the back of one of the spokes. Is this true ?
Yes this is true. I believe that the ones with out the numbers are the second version that is supposed to clear ( from experience some will, some won't ) the 68 & up single piston K/H calipers.
Rodney
The naked set (no casting id) that I have I bought in the early 70s from Jeff Burgy. He had been using them a few years on his '66 GT350. They do not have the cast in spacer in them.
He actually had GR50-15 BFG's on that car with these wheels.
When I asked, he didn't remember where he bought them but thought they were local out of the Detroit area.
There are 15" 10 spokes listed in one of the Shelby accessory catalogs dated 1966. I'd speculate that they are before production use on '67 Shelbys. That started sometime around June of '67 when they became the "Deluxe" wheels.
My 67 GT500 is in a DSO group that had them installed new.
Quote from: Fast Fords on August 10, 2019, 09:21:42 PM
I was informed by a knowledgeable '67 guy who told me that some of the '67 10 spoke wheels did not come with part #'s on the back side of the rim but were actually original '67 10 spoke wheels. Can anyone confirm this or deny this ?
Confirmed. Have a set.
I seem to recall that: 68' ten spokes (well, those bought back in the day for a 68') will rub the caliper on a 67'. OK, we all know the 68's (mostly) came with hubcaps.
Quote from: roddster on August 11, 2019, 11:09:13 AM
I seem to recall that: 68' ten spokes (well, those bought back in the day for a 68') will rub the caliper on a 67'. OK, we all know the 68's (mostly) came with hubcaps.
> <, you have it backwards. 67s rub on a 68 with no spacer. In fact you may still need to polish down the caliper on a 68.
I got my 67, no spacer wheels to fit on my 68 by grinding the casting seam off of the caliper. That gives you a better clearance on the fender lips in front.
I think Doug is correct.
The 1967 ten spokes will rub on the larger 1968 single piston calipers. It you want to use them a grinder comes in handy. The 1968 versions were not available for production of 1968s.
They did however, manage to make a few sets work. Those cars were sent to Europe as exports. It would be interesting to inspect those if any survive?
Quote from: Coralsnake on August 11, 2019, 05:32:31 PM
I think Doug is correct.
The 1967 ten spokes will rub on the larger 1968 single piston calipers. It you want to use them a grinder comes in handy. The 1968 versions were not available for production of 1968s.
They did however, manage to make a few sets work. Those cars were sent to Europe as exports. It would be interesting to inspect those if any survive?
Three went to Spain. Two went to Japan. Five invoiced cars.
There could have been more since there were 1,900 invoices missing. Lois Emenger had the same situation since the invoices were cc'd to her from a batch that Howard was allowed to take for the Ford archives.
As far as I know, the papers that came out of the attic of Shelby's Goodyear tire location in LA were only from the California operations and they stopped at the '67s.
None of the 67 documents came from the attic in CA. There weren't any there.
Just for interest, here's a pic I took of a '67 GT350, in the summer of '67 at Sud Automobile, on the south shore in Montreal, Canada.
Mike
Adding to this old thread if you guys don't mind to keep it all in one place ,but having some lug nut issues my car is in the shop & apparently I two types of lug nuts on the car mix & matched & there causing play in the wheels .So trying to figure out what I need & shop is having a hard time locating any from there sources ,1st two pics are my wheels I know there gold but I assumed they where original & version 3 on Petes chart ,& JDs pic of the lug But seems to be what I need as it has the cut out for a washer .is there an aftermarket version of that lug I need or are we confused as to what I have & need thanks .
Those are wrong call BRANDAS they will get you what you need!
Refer back to JD,S top picture that's what you need.
Quote from: 68krrrr on June 24, 2020, 03:00:29 PM
Adding to this old thread if you guys don't mind to keep it all in one place ,but having some lug nut issues my car is in the shop & apparently I two types of lug nuts on the car mix & matched & there causing play in the wheels .So trying to figure out what I need & shop is having a hard time locating any from there sources ,1st two pics are my wheels I know there gold but I assumed they where original & version 3 on Petes chart ,& JDs pic of the lug But seems to be what I need as it has the cut out for a washer .is there an aftermarket version of that lug I need or are we confused as to what I have & need thanks .
Version 5 on the list . They are tapered which is a plus but have the valve stem in the wrong spot and use the wrong lugnuts when compared to the assemblyline wheels. The picture you post is of a typical aftermarket lug nut. The cut out for the washer is another indication of a non factory after market wheel. The factory wheels lug nuts will not interchange with those after market wheels. The lug nut with the washer is still used on after market wheels . you should not have too much of a problem finding them if you go to a larger wheel selling outlet. The original ten spoke/69 Shelby lug nut are the ones that are typically hard to find. I try to keep track of who carries the original type lugnuts but don't put any effort into keeping track of the after market version's . If I had a lead on where to look I would share but I don't. With a little effort you should be able to find the aftermarket type with the washer. As mentioned Branda may have some.
Ok thanksI found these on Branda but says it's for 66 you think these are ok the look the same
Quote from: 68krrrr on June 24, 2020, 03:38:01 PM
Ok thanksI found these on Branda but says it's for 66 you think these are ok the look the same
All I can say for sure is that they look very similar . It is likely that they will work but hard to say without comparing all dimensions. The generic lugnut that you need is likely available at a larger store selling wheels locally in any larger city. I would try to get them locally so that you can compare plus they will most likely be less expensive.