I personally use a synthetic blend of Motorcraft 10W30. I presently have a 302 roller rocker in the old gal made to look vintage while the original 289 slumbers in my closet. Yes, my closet. I mean hey, even Chopin had his heart cut out and preserved in a jar of brandy and kept in the wall of a church (to this day) so why not a 289 engine which in essence is the heart of an automobile.
Makes perfect sense to me! 8)
Quotewhile the original 289 slumbers in my closet. Yes, my closet.
The engine for my '69 350 sat in a spare bedroom for 3 or 4 years until I moved in 1978 and then sat in an enclosed back porch for a few more years. It now has a permanent residence in #2060 since 2015. ;D
TOB
Valvoline 20/50 Racing Oil for 28 years. Have not had any engine problems. Change oil and filter once a year.
Valvoline VR1 in the big block
Mobil 1 in small block
If you have a flat tappet cam, it better have Zn[S2P(OR)2]2 or zinc dialkyldithiophosphates, also known as ZDDP. I use Valvoline Racing 20/50 Motor Oil.
Do not use a synthetic or a blend with a flat tappet cam without Zinc protection. If you do, get it out now. If the engine has a roller cam and rocker (both), the synthetic is fine without Zinc protection.
Best of luck
Cory
Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs 20/50
Valvoline 10W-30 VR1. Change oil & filter once/year and send a sample to Blackstone for analysis.
Dave
I also cut the filter open after I change the oil to see if there is any metal in it.
Quote from: 6s1640 on February 17, 2018, 10:04:27 PM
If you have a flat tappet cam, it better have Zn[S2P(OR)2]2 or zinc dialkyldithiophosphates, also known as ZDDP. I use Valvoline Racing 20/50 Motor Oil.
Do not use a synthetic or a blend with a flat tappet cam. If you do, get it out now. If the engine has a roller cam and rocker (both), the synthetic is fine.
Best of luck
Cory
Roller on all accounts, but good information to know. Thank you very much!
Richard E.
Joe Gibbs Racing 20W 50 Full synthetic
For Break-in; Joe Gibbs Break-in oil. (Dino oil)
It appears the Joe Gibbs Racing motor oil comes with Zinc. Nice.
Cory
66 350 has used Valvoline racing every 2k, since new, 68 uses Castrol gtx since 2nd oil change, every 2k. both get motorcraft fl1 racing filters. all of my oil is cases of old school . phred
VR1, Valvoline Racing 20w50
I do not go by mileage since my mileage may vary season to season, so I just replace it once a year.
Brad Penn 20w-50.
Brad Penn, change every year or 3,000 miles whichever comes first
I use Lucas Hot Rod Oil. My engine builder recommended it. It has high zinc and phosphorous.
I use Mobil1 and add one blue bottle of STP per 5 quart for the ZDDP.
My 68 GT350 has an 8 quart road race pan on it with an oil cooler. My Pantera has a 10 qt road race pan. Both have oil coolers.
The oil doesn't get changed from mileage. I change it by color change. Simply put, they don't get enough miles put on them for that.
the one and only mobil 1, simply continues to be the best
Quote from: FL SAAC TONY on February 18, 2018, 09:28:05 AM
the one and only mobil 1, simply continues to be the best
Well it is still good, but it was reformulated and isn't the same thing as in the '70s.
I used Brad Penn but now use Amsoil with the zinc in my 67 GT-500
I use Valvoline VR-1 10w30 in my GT 350.
Brad Penn 20-50 (high zinc) with a Napa Gold oil filter for my 289 HIPO.
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 18, 2018, 09:31:07 AM
Quote from: FL SAAC TONY on February 18, 2018, 09:28:05 AM
the one and only mobil 1, simply continues to be the best
Well it is still good, but it was reformulated and isn't the same thing as in the '70s.
being reingeneered has made the original formula better and you (I) do not add zddp as it contains 1200 +
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-forum/427642-mobil-1-claims-15w50-has-1200-ppm-phosphorus-3.html
ZDDP Baby
10 40 whatever....My cars not fancy and doesn't go all that many miles between changes,more of a time issue...Coincidentally I just changed the oil yesterday....Generic oreilly auto parts stuff with additive....
Interesting article comparing additives/oils.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2008/02/performance-oils-and-additives-got-zinc/
Mobil 1 in everything - except for our original little RHD Mint that gets 20-50 Castrol and some zinc additive.
Quote from: FL SAAC TONY on February 18, 2018, 03:58:00 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 18, 2018, 09:31:07 AM
Quote from: FL SAAC TONY on February 18, 2018, 09:28:05 AM
the one and only mobil 1, simply continues to be the best
Well it is still good, but it was reformulated and isn't the same thing as in the '70s.
being reingeneered has made the original formula better and you (I) do not add zddp as it contains 1200 +
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-forum/427642-mobil-1-claims-15w50-has-1200-ppm-phosphorus-3.html
Not so. I know what I'm doing.
ok thanks
The "Bob Is The Oil Guy" website has so much motor oil info it will make your head spin...
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm (https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm)
Dave
Quote from: s2ms on February 18, 2018, 08:32:33 PM
The "Bob Is The Oil Guy" website has so much motor oil info it will make your head spin...
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm (https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm)
Dave
+1
Quote from: s2ms on February 18, 2018, 08:32:33 PM
The "Bob Is The Oil Guy" website has so much motor oil info it will make your head spin...
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm (https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm)
Dave
This is THE place to go for oil info. I use Brad Penn .
Brad Penn was bought out by D-A Lubricants a couple of years ago and they have re-named the product line PennGrade 1. I've been using it (15W40) for probably the last 10 or 12 years in the Shelbys and our Porsche 993's.
Brad Penn 20w50
Who sells Brad Penn aka Penngrade in the Los Angeles area?
VR1 racing oil 20-50
I'm a little surprised at the number of people using 20-50. Why is that preferred over something like 10-30?
Thanks,
Steve
Well I am no scientist but the formula is rather simple, The hotter the engine gets from usage the oil gets thinner. So therefore we need thicker viscosity oils to fill the void between bearing surfaces. Regular street engines would and could run safely on ANY modern type oil, basically any brand and any viscosity. Where things get a little tricky is if you are breaking in a new engine or you are running a solid cam application. Solid cams need ZDDP in the oil so we don't wipe out the cam lobes, again I'm no metallurgist but trust me it happens to a few that don't use ZDDP and are just putzing around. I use hydraulic roller cams in some of my cars and the usual break in period with the usual break in oils are not necessary. So there are just a few things to consider here, solid cams,breaking in an engine,what oil pressure, and rpms the motor will experience. These few items will guide you to what oil you feel safe with. With a standard hydraulic 302-428 low rpm cruiser type cars. get whats on sale at your local auto parts store,these engines used regular 30 weight 50 years ago and lasted thru the years so don't be afraid of ANY multi viscosity oils for your rides.
Quote from: SFM6S087 on February 20, 2018, 06:38:01 AM
I'm a little surprised at the number of people using 20-50. Why is that preferred over something like 10-30?
Thanks,
Steve
I use Brad Penn 10-30 in my 67 GT350. 289 solid lifters.
Quote from: sd427 on February 19, 2018, 11:26:26 PM
Who sells Brad Penn aka Penngrade in the Los Angeles area?
Most speed shops carry it, you might try in your area. Otherwise Amazon and eBay sell it and some sellers offer free shipping.
"Green oil" , whatever name is on the bottle , Kendall , Brad Penn , Penn Grade , DA whatever. For the race engines I change it when it turns color . The late Harvey Crane got me using the stuff almost 50 years ago. "If it's green , it's working , if it's not , take it out". was his words to me. Daily driver , hydraulic roller engines get 5-30 synthetic. Race car hauler gets 20-50 VR1 because you can get it anywhere on the road . Different needs , different oils.
Great day for an oil change. Went with 6 quarts of Valvoline full synthetic 10W30. Aviad oil pan incidentally and 5.0 roller rocker modern engine made to look period correct.
Richard E.
Quote from: FL SAAC TONY on February 18, 2018, 09:28:05 AM
the one and only mobil 1
Do you mean the one of 31 15/50 for flat tappets...page 3?
https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/media/Project/WEP/shared/US/Products/Files/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf?la=en&hash=E90BBCD720E33CC2D008B961B7EC97C2C1C5491F
FYI
https://mobiloil.com/en/faq/ask-our-auto-experts/questions-for-auto-experts/has-zinc-been-removed-from-motor-oils
Here's some good info on oils: A look read but full of good info.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
There are numerous oils, boutique and otherwise, more than good than enough for our vintage engines. We are fortunate to have such a wide selection to choose from with no apparent significant downside to any of them.
To those people who drive infrequently enough to only need a single yearly oil change, I would urge y'all to make that yearly oil change it before the car is put to rest for the winter, not after the winter slumber. That way the acidic combustion blow-by, however minimal it may be, is not munching on your engines bearings while it sits over the winter months.
Additionally, consider this: just drive the dang thing more ! Someday you won't be physically or mentally able to drive, and you'll be wishing you had just ONE more day behind the wheel to remember the joy of it all....
Personally, I've been putting Mobil 1 15w-50 in both small and BB vintage Ford engines for a little over 20 years. including every variety of Ford's 200, 260, 289, 302, 352, 390, 406, 427, and 428 CJ & SCJ. Have also put it in customers cars, including e type Jags, XK-120's, Triumph TR-3, 4's and 6's., MGA's, Sunbeam Alpine's, Jensen- Healey's, Sting Rays, and Chevelle's, the list goes on and on. I just like the way an engine wears with that oil: that is, undetectable. The ease of availability and price are hard to beat as well
The Mobil 1 0w-40 is a great oil too, especially if you drive in a cold winter, but their 15w-50 is faultless above 25 degrees F. which is cold enough for me.
Mobil 1 oil filters are pretty good too.
Z
PS if one must use an oil w/o the sufficient amount of zinc and phosphorus (1200 ppm minimum of each in my view) then use a zddp additive. The best one I know of is: http://www.cam-shield.com/
it comes with a formula concentration table so you know exactly how much concentration of zinc / phosphorus you are ending up with. It takes VERY LITTLE Cam-Shield to bring up the standard level of zinc found in todays oil, usually 800 ppm, to an acceptable level in the 1200's, or more. So the oil is not being diluted significantly as is the case with other additives requiring a much greater volume of additive to accomplish the same thing. Of course, the best strategy is to use a proper oil in the first place.
Quote from: zray on March 29, 2018, 12:54:02 AM
There are numerous oils, boutique and otherwise, more than good than enough for our vintage engines. We are fortunate to have such a wide selection to choose from with no apparent significant downside to any of them.
To those people who drive infrequently enough to only need a single yearly oil change, I would urge y'all to make that yearly oil change it before the car is put to rest for the winter, not after the winter slumber. That way the acidic combustion blow-by, however minimal it may be, is not munching on your engines bearings while it sits over the winter months.
Additionally, consider this: just drive the dang thing more ! Someday you won't be physically or mentally able to drive, and you'll be wishing you had just ONE more day behind the wheel to remember the joy of it all....
Personally, I've been putting Mobil 1 15w-50 in both small and BB vintage Ford engines for a little over 20 years. including every variety of Ford's 200, 260, 289, 302, 352, 390, 406, 427, and 428 CJ & SCJ. Have also put it in customers cars, including e type Jags, XK-120's, Triumph TR-3, 4's and 6's., MGA's, Sunbeam Alpine's, Jensen- Healey's, Sting Rays, and Chevelle's, the list goes on and on. I just like the way an engine wears with that oil: that is, undetectable. The ease of availability and price are hard to beat as well
The Mobil 1 0w-40 is a great oil too, especially if you drive in a cold winter, but their 15w-50 is faultless above 25 degrees F. which is cold enough for me.
Mobil 1 oil filters are pretty good too.
Z
PS if one must use an oil w/o the sufficient amount of zinc and phosphorus (1200 ppm minimum of each in my view) then use a zddp additive. The best one I know of is: http://www.cam-shield.com/
it comes with a formula concentration table so you know exactly how much concentration of zinc / phosphorus you are engine up with. It takes VERY LITTLE Cam-Shield to bring up the standard level of zinc found in todays oil, usually 800 ppm, to an acceptable level in the 1200's, or more. So the oil is not being diluted significantly as is the case with other additives requiring a much greater volume of additive to accomplish the same thing. Of course, the best strategy is to use a proper oil in the first place.
Z +1
Adding a small bottle of zddp to oil does not provide the same level of protection as buying oil with the proper amounts of zinc and phosphorous blended in at the molecular level when the oil is produced. I've read this and have been told this by 2 engine builders that know their stuff and race.
I always thought that the bearing clearances in each engine dictate what viscosity oil is required to give proper oil pressure.
Quote from: greekz on February 17, 2018, 09:43:20 PM
Valvoline 20/50 Racing Oil for 28 years. Have not had any engine problems. Change oil and filter once a year.
+1..
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on March 29, 2018, 09:08:08 PM
"......I always thought that the bearing clearances in each engine dictate what viscosity oil is required to give proper oil pressure.
On a recent SBF engine with a fresh overhaul, I did some very basic experimentation with two different viscosity of oils. This experiment was on a '65 289 HiPo w/ a stock long block, blueprinted HV Melling oil pump, and Weber induction. The bearing clearances were on the low end of Fords "desired" specifications for rod and main bearings. Without having my manual in front of me, I think that range starts at 0.0008" for rod big ends and 0.0005" for mains. . My clearances were right at 0.001".
Back to oil viscosity; once the engine was at full operating temperature, I had zero change of oil pressure at idle, or thru the rpm range. Whether the oil was 15w-50 or 0w-40, the pressure was the same. In an engine set up more loosely, that may not hold true, or with a stock oil pump there might be a measurable change as well, don't know. I was a little surprised to see the pressure not change with a change in oils
O.T. :
FWIW, I don't subscribe to the philosophy of setting up street engines with the bearings at the loose end of Fords published desired clearances. Racing is whole different ballgame, and my experience with racing engines is so dated as to not really matter. But, when a street engine has 0.0025" of main bearing clearance , I want it to be because it's got 150,000 miles on it, not just starting out that loose. To me, that's just giving away a hundred thousand miles of normal wear. Every new-ish engine I was able to get my hands inside of, way back when, ( practically when dinosaurs were roaming around ), had barely 0.001" of bearing clearance. Clearly, that was the spec. Ford preferred in their new engines. My uncles shop disassembled a lot of wrecked cars that got totaled by the insurance companies, and it was one of my 1st jobs to cannibalize engines for parts. In that lowly job I got to see the insides of many factory fresh engines. Heaven for a 14 year old kid in 1965.
Z
Quote from: FL SAAC TONY on March 29, 2018, 07:54:46 AM
Quote from: zray on March 29, 2018, 12:54:02 AM
There are numerous oils, boutique and otherwise, more than good than enough for our vintage engines. We are fortunate to have such a wide selection to choose from with no apparent significant downside to any of them.
To those people who drive infrequently enough to only need a single yearly oil change, I would urge y'all to make that yearly oil change it before the car is put to rest for the winter, not after the winter slumber. That way the acidic combustion blow-by, however minimal it may be, is not munching on your engines bearings while it sits over the winter months.
Additionally, consider this: just drive the dang thing more ! Someday you won't be physically or mentally able to drive, and you'll be wishing you had just ONE more day behind the wheel to remember the joy of it all....
Personally, I've been putting Mobil 1 15w-50 in both small and BB vintage Ford engines for a little over 20 years. including every variety of Ford's 200, 260, 289, 302, 352, 390, 406, 427, and 428 CJ & SCJ. Have also put it in customers cars, including e type Jags, XK-120's, Triumph TR-3, 4's and 6's., MGA's, Sunbeam Alpine's, Jensen- Healey's, Sting Rays, and Chevelle's, the list goes on and on. I just like the way an engine wears with that oil: that is, undetectable. The ease of availability and price are hard to beat as well
The Mobil 1 0w-40 is a great oil too, especially if you drive in a cold winter, but their 15w-50 is faultless above 25 degrees F. which is cold enough for me.
Mobil 1 oil filters are pretty good too.
Z
PS if one must use an oil w/o the sufficient amount of zinc and phosphorus (1200 ppm minimum of each in my view) then use a zddp additive. The best one I know of is: http://www.cam-shield.com/
it comes with a formula concentration table so you know exactly how much concentration of zinc / phosphorus you are engine up with. It takes VERY LITTLE Cam-Shield to bring up the standard level of zinc found in todays oil, usually 800 ppm, to an acceptable level in the 1200's, or more. So the oil is not being diluted significantly as is the case with other additives requiring a much greater volume of additive to accomplish the same thing. Of course, the best strategy is to use a proper oil in the first place.
Z +1
Z- I agree with most everything you said above,so MOST all streetable hydraulic cammed engines from the most mundane six bangers to a performance 460 and everything in between will run very well on standard 30 weight or whatever is on sale at the auto parts. Many on here feel good about spending 50.00 dollars on an oil change with specialty oils when the bargain brand will do just fine. Remember 50 years ago 100s of millions of cars ran on 30weight and got approx. 100k miles of trouble free driving. Today most of these cars might see 500 miles of driving if there lucky. Sorta like running 18 dollar a gallon race gas when their 8 to 1 302 wont even ping with 40 degrees of timing in the 110 degree desert... to each his own ;D