Took the car for a ride in April and while sitting eating ice cream I smelt a burning smell and then saw some wiffs of smoke coming from the steering column. I killed the battery and towed it home.
I finally got around to looking into it today and I found this. Last winter I replaced the turn signal switch while repairing the tail lights. I purchased a brand new repop part. Any guesses as to what would cause this?
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/279-290919182153.jpeg)
Not sure, but the guy who runs the below website sells good quality repro turn signal parts. I believe I bought a tilt t/s switch from him 5 years ago and it is still working.
http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/#TS_Parts
Vic is a great guy to deal with. He also would likely be able to help you. He helped me with wiring factory '67 Cougar sequentials. They work beautifully, unlike dynamite sticks.
Thank you for that direction and recommendation. I'll reach out to him for help. I'm grateful to have a place like this with folks like y'all.
Jude
If you drive your car, you should ask Vik about his LED turn signal kits. I have one on my 69 shelby and love it. They are super bright and work perfectly. No modifications to your car needed to install it.
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on September 30, 2019, 11:37:36 AM
If you drive your car, you should ask Vik about his LED turn signal kits. I have one on my 69 shelby and love it. They are super bright and work perfectly. No modifications to your car needed to install it.
Does the kit that you are using eliminate the quick flash of the brake lights?
I never heard of that issue before, but my 69 doesn't do that.
Something either shorted or went way over current so that the switch contacts burned.
Check everything going to the back of the car and in the trunk, including the sequential unit
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on September 30, 2019, 04:50:31 PM
I never heard of that issue before, but my 69 doesn't do that.
It isn't an issue. If you watch the brake lights on a '68 (not sure about a '69), the brakes flash in sequence from the center to the outside in just an instant, a la "quick flash".
The kit that I have from Dallas Mustang eliminated that because they thought that was a mistake and they weren't supposed to do that originally.
They have no intention of updating the kit. The directionals work so well that I'd prefer to keep the kit in the car unless I find one that also "quick flashes" the brake lights like the originals.
I was finally able to call and speak with Vic last week. I explained what happened and the picture above and his response was, "you saw the magic smoke". Essentially, he explained why the statement is on his website that the led plasma bulbs he sells doesn't cause turn signal switches to "burn up" which is what I saw happening. Bascially, the bulbs 1157's pull so much power with the brakes on for long periods of time it causes this to happen. His bulbs draw 1/7th of the power which keeps the switch from overheating and burning up the switch.
I ordered another new switch, the bulbs and the electronic flasher. Hopefully this will fix it. Vik was convinced it would.
Thanks for all your help. I'll install them tomorow and get her going again.
Jude
Somehow I find it hard to believe that moving away from what Ford engineers had originally intended is a good idea.
Its been my experience one change leads to another and pretty soon more issues arise.
Just my opinion, but good luck
Let us know about the LED's and use with factory electronics. Usually they require a resister for use in the 69/70 system. On my '67 I noted that the ammeter in the pod below the dash moves quite a bit to the discharge side with the vehicle not running and the turn signal being ran. So I would imagine that they do load the turn signal switch a bit. If you happen to put you hand on the plug on the brake light switch you'll also note it gets pretty warm during application.
-Keith
Quote from: 1967 eight barrel on October 24, 2019, 10:15:26 PM
Let us know about the LED's and use with factory electronics. Usually they require a resister for use in the 69/70 system. On my '67 I noted that the ammeter in the pod below the dash moves quite a bit to the discharge side with the vehicle not running and the turn signal being ran. So I would imagine that they do load the turn signal switch a bit. If you happen to put you hand on the plug on the brake light switch you'll also note it gets pretty warm during application.
-Keith
+1
The reduced draw of the LED tail lights and turn signals takes a lot of pressure off the entire system. My 1969 shelby alternator gauge barely moves toward negative with LED turn signals on and brakes pressed. The alternator needle used to jump much further toward negative with the original t/s system and incandescent bulbs. The extra brightness is a huge safety advantage as well.
Quote from: 1967 eight barrel on October 24, 2019, 10:15:26 PM
Let us know about the LED's and use with factory electronics. Usually they require a resister for use in the 69/70 system. On my '67 I noted that the ammeter in the pod below the dash moves quite a bit to the discharge side with the vehicle not running and the turn signal being ran. So I would imagine that they do load the turn signal switch a bit. If you happen to put you hand on the plug on the brake light switch you'll also note it gets pretty warm during application.
-Keith
I can't speak to my ammeter because it hasn't worked in quite some time but that is precisely what Vic explained. The 1157 bulbs draw lots of power. The electronic flasher is needed but the bulb went straight into the socket with no changes needed to the harness. I was surprised it was so simple. He claims they draw 1/7th of the power. He did say however that a person would need to change the dynamite sticks if they were original or repops not purchased from him. At this stage their brightness and functionality has me sold. I'm not in a position to have #2196 as a concourse car but rather a fun driver I take to local shows and cruises.
Jude, thanks for posting the steps you took and the outcome. Very helpful. You say you ordered a new switch, bulbs and flashers. Did you also have to order new dynamite sticks (or whatever replace the dynamite sticks)? If so, were those difficult to install? And do they look noticeably different in the trunk? Thanks again.
Jeff
I didn’t purchase new but only because I had purchased a set of Vics sticks a few years ago. He is also releasing a newer version of those sticks soon. Vic did state i would have to have his sticks for the plasma led to work, his old or new version. My car didn’t have the sticks in it when I got it so I was kind starting from scratch and the tail light harness had been cut. I’ve been told they don’t look like the originals to closely. My trunk is a bit of a hot mess because the harness has been cut. I’ll post a pic of the sticks tomorrow. I don’t think I have any on my phone. I will say I was happy with the regular bulbs last year when I got everything working again but it is absolutely amazing the difference in brightness with the led. There is no doubt they are on...
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/279-011119155038.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/279-011119155002.jpeg)
Dynamite sticks were used in 1968, not 67. They can be hard-wired in. I don't like sequencing brake lights, which are illegal in some states.
If you're going to run Plasma LED's you'll have to add the resister into the system. If you want to run sequentials you'll need to buy the TS400. I have wired one for a neighbor. While not terribly difficult, it is a bit of work.
-Keith