So, I have some time on my hands these days... Yay, quarantine
Wondering if anyone has detailed photos of a 68 PI together on a stand just before install? I'd love to have an out-of-the-car reference, if possible.
Also, what is conventional wisdom when it comes to installing components on the engine and inn the engine bay before dropping the drivetrain back in? I've never reinstalled a BB motor/trans, only SB's which have all the room. Can I sneak the drivetrain in with the brake booster and master preinstalled? Any other best practices I should know?
Any wisdom and imagery from your vaults would be greatly appreciated! I WILL get this car back together during this CA lockdown.
With the communities blessing, I'd like to exercise humility and operate with the motto that "there are no stupid questions". I've feel like I've done my research and I have *most* of my ducks in a row. Admittedly, one major mistake I made was during disassembly - 2 or 3 years ago now - I went light on pictures. Foolishly, I expected the engine rebuild to be done in a matter of weeks (based on past experience with the builder) and that turned into a year and a half... so my memory is very, very faded.
So, I ask - would a single thread be the best way to ask all of my questions, would you rather I bombard you with individual posts, or keep my mouth shut and let my ego wing it?
Leave the booster out. Notice the use of cardboard and foam rubber matting.
She's tight but it fits.
Have a look at this while I find a few pictures for you.
https://youtu.be/w4iS2vaA79I
This is what I was able to find quickly.
Let me know if you need something specific and I can look through what I have.
IIRC these were from a group of photos I posted for everyone to critique before I installed it in the car.
If you would prefer Hi-res I can always email you.
Chris
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-200320120559-45001500.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-200320120559-4519392.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-200320120559-45201533.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-200320120559-4521253.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-200320120559-45222146.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-200320120814-4523604.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-210620100437-47941096.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-210620100435-4788957.jpeg)
I like that bra-clip on the vacuum hoses. Where do you get them?
Way to go, Chris! I am adding two photos that show my PI dripping wet to give a different look at the process.
Good to see progress, Milo.
Don
Can anybody document the red on the dist advance? Don't recall seeing that on a 69 anyway is that a 68 thing?
I think I bought that distributor from Bob G, I can't remember anymore bought way too many parts.
I realize why Ford did it at the factory (easier) but does painting the water pump bypass hose weaken it in any way?
Wouldn't a rubber hose prefer to be unpainted?
The bypass hose was a special thicker wall high pressure type hose not a piece of heater hose like I have seen many people use that ends up swelling up from the heat and water pressure.
Quote from: Chris Thauberger on March 20, 2020, 04:44:50 PM
I think I bought that distributor from Bob G, I can't remember anymore bought way too many parts.
Sorry I don't remember selling it . Must have already been on the advance if I did because I have not had a reason to mark a advance in that way .
Quote from: Special Ed on March 20, 2020, 05:15:18 PM
The bypass hose was a special thicker wall high pressure type hose not a piece of heater hose like I have seen many people use that ends up swelling up from the heat and water pressure.
+1 . To add - painting it will not adversely effect it.
Thanks Ed and Bob for the explanation.
This video is AMAZING. I do love how easy a time lapse can make an install look.
The cardboard and foam rubber matting is brilliant, as is the use of the ratchet strap to get that extra tilt... noted and noted. What were the straps that you used to connect to the engine hoist leveler? They look a bit like the wheel tie-downs I have for towing, but I'm sure yours are longer than what I have. They look a lot easier to work with than the alternative.
Also, glad to see I wasn't crazy for wanting to attach the first run of the exhaust to the manifolds before install.
Do you happen to have any photos of the engine bay with the engine out? Want to make sure i get the firewall area right before I lose most of the access.
Quote from: Chris Thauberger on March 20, 2020, 11:58:10 AM
Leave the booster out. Notice the use of cardboard and foam rubber matting.
She's tight but it fits.
Have a look at this while I find a few pictures for you.
https://youtu.be/w4iS2vaA79I
So, I mocked it up today. Any comments or corrections? Like maybe how to rotate images...!
Also, does can anyone tell me what these few pieces are for?
Only one fits your car. Its the L shaped bracket. Its part of the motor mount
Quote from: Chris Thauberger on March 20, 2020, 11:58:10 AM
Leave the booster out. Notice the use of cardboard and foam rubber matting.
She's tight but it fits.
Have a look at this while I find a few pictures for you.
https://youtu.be/w4iS2vaA79I
That is taking it easy and being careful. Cool Video!!
The mock up is pretty good
I would change the oil cap, the steel pipe for the booster, the tag on the carb, the ps pump color and the oil filter.
The AC oil filter is much shorter. The oil filter adapter could be more aluminum
Thanks, Pete.
I just opened the PS pump today and found it painted black. I sent it to the rebuilder literally years ago and just left it in the box. Was hoping Dan knew something I didn't... Oh well, Ill paint over it.
What's the issue with the steel pipe for the booster? And the carb tag?
Ill swap out the filter once the engine has been broken in and the special oil is ready to be changed.
And, I'm on the hunt for the correct oil breather cap... if you have one laying around :)
Quote from: Coralsnake on April 02, 2020, 06:50:44 PM
The mock up is pretty good
I would change the oil cap, the steel pipe for the booster, the tag on the carb, the ps pump color and the oil filter.
The AC oil filter is much shorter. The oil filter adapter could be more aluminum
What color are the AC pulleys - Aluminum?
Quote from: Milo on April 02, 2020, 07:16:41 PM
What color are the AC pulleys - Aluminum?
The clutch and the donut electro magnet are zinc silver. The waterpump , crank and PS pulleys are semi gloss blk. Even though black is the typical rebuilder color curious of what mfg the pump is. The third second line on the ID tag found on the rear of the pump tells who by the letter. It will be a F for Ford Thompson which is the bluish shade and W for TRW which was black . Both were used but one maybe a little more prevalent.
Look at Chris' motor for correct location of tag on carb.
Shape on booster steel line looks correct
Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 02, 2020, 07:27:55 PM
Quote from: Milo on April 02, 2020, 07:16:41 PM
What color are the AC pulleys - Aluminum?
The clutch and the donut electro magnet are zinc silver. The waterpump , crank and PS pulleys are semi gloss blk. Even though black is the typical rebuilder color curious of what mfg the pump is. The third second line on the ID tag found on the rear of the pump tells who by the letter. It will be a F for Ford Thompson which is the bluish shade and W for TRW which was black . Both were used but one maybe a little more prevalent.
Sure enough, I have a HBA-BH pump with a W. Go Dan! I vaguely remember having this conversation with him years ago after sending him my complete original setup for rebuilding. He's a lovely guy and does great work.
Here are a few of the engine compartment before the install.
If you want a different angle I have a few more. ;)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-020420211005-4524247.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-020420211005-45811118.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-020420211006-4582251.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-020420211006-45832207.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-020420211006-4584600.jpeg)
I think I would install booster first with out M/C then remove the tall wide 68 Shelby LH valve cover before engine drop.
Yes, I agree with Ed
Better yet install the booster and master leave the valve cover off.
I installed the engine in my 67 500 with the hookers and four-speed on it. The valve covers, coil, and accessories were off the engine. I had it in, on the mounts and bolted down in 28 minutes.
The extreme angle required was impossible with the hoist available at Harbor Freight. I rented one that would fit under the car between the tires.
I used two carburetor plates being I was concerned with that much weight on one flange.
I used moving blankets over the shock towers and over the core support and put the rear of the car about two feet in the air on jack stands and dropped the idler arm off of the frame .
I didn't believe you could install it with headers until I saw his pictures of the installation. It can be done!
I got this tip from the VMF: you can also jack the rear of the car way up due to the extreme angle nessary to put the big block engine in.
Quote from: roddster on April 04, 2020, 11:44:10 AM
I got this tip from the VMF: you can also jack the rear of the car way up due to the extreme angle nessary to put the big block engine in.
I guess nobody looks at pictures anymore
I have set them straight in, no need to tilt (or very little)
LOL.
What struck me is how low you got the front end by resting the LCA's on blocks. Does leaving the wheels on, tires on the ground give up too much in the clearance department?
Thanks for everything!
Quote from: Chris Thauberger on April 04, 2020, 11:53:14 AM
Quote from: roddster on April 04, 2020, 11:44:10 AM
I got this tip from the VMF: you can also jack the rear of the car way up due to the extreme angle nessary to put the big block engine in.
I guess nobody looks at pictures anymore
+1 the booster is not in the way of anything but the valve cover is totally in the way of lots of things. I would remove both valve covers.
Quote from: Special Ed on April 03, 2020, 11:49:15 AM
I think I would install booster first with out M/C then remove the tall wide 68 Shelby LH valve cover before engine drop.
Also you will have to remove the slave cylinder to get it in there. Or disconnect the idler arm and then disconnect the slave cylinder from the frame bracket so the entire tie rod assembly can be dropped down enough to clear.
Quote from: Royce Peterson on April 04, 2020, 01:30:39 PM
Also you will have to remove the slave cylinder to get it in there. Or disconnect the idler arm and then disconnect the slave cylinder from the frame bracket so the entire tie rod assembly can be dropped down enough to clear.
No you don't... ;)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/178-040420134846.jpeg)
How correct are the engine bay photos compared to a 67 ??
Quote from: Wedgeman on April 04, 2020, 02:24:44 PM
How correct are the engine bay photos compared to a 67 ??
Very close but with a few exceptions. If you copied them you would have more rights then wrongs. The problem is knowing the right for 67 's aspect. ;)
Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 04, 2020, 03:09:31 PM
Quote from: Wedgeman on April 04, 2020, 02:24:44 PM
How correct are the engine bay photos compared to a 67 ??
Very close but with a few exceptions. If you copied them you would have more rights then wrongs. The problem is knowing the right for 67 's aspect. ;)
Different enough but you'd need to know the difference (and date) and whether or not you will see it when the engine is in.
I'm going to try the angle deal with the headers. Never even thought that could happen. I bought a set of used Hookers, with all the dimpling done to save time.
I can't admit that Keith is crazier then me so I'm going to have the courage to try it with the transmission attached? Let's see? How much damage can I do in one swipe now? :o
Keith? Why can't the accessories be attached? The angle is too steep and the alternator will hit the shock towers?
I would leave front sway bar off until engine is dropped for fear of oil pan and dampner hitting it and paint steering gearbox box top black out before engine drop especially on a big block.
You just have to drop the idler arm from the frame with HOOKER long tube headers ( 6114). No need to do anything more than the two bolts on the idler and turning the wheel slightly. Factory exhaust manifolds are much easier to deal with installation wise and doesn't require the aforementioned step.
Good call. I had to remove the sway bar while installing a 428 in a '67 last week because the damper was hitting it.
Quote from: Special Ed on April 04, 2020, 04:54:00 PM
I would leave front sway bar off until engine is dropped for fear of oil pan and dampner hitting it and paint steering gearbox box top black out before engine drop especially on a big block.
Quote from: Special Ed on March 20, 2020, 05:15:18 PM
The bypass hose was a special thicker wall high pressure type hose not a piece of heater hose like I have seen many people use that ends up swelling up from the heat and water pressure.
Is the thicker wall bypass hose available, and if so, where can I get it? I've checked with all the typical Mustang & Shelby parts distributors and see no special listing for that item.
Steve
Quote from: 8T03S1425 on June 10, 2020, 04:05:02 PM
Quote from: Special Ed on March 20, 2020, 05:15:18 PM
The bypass hose was a special thicker wall high pressure type hose not a piece of heater hose like I have seen many people use that ends up swelling up from the heat and water pressure.
Is the thicker wall bypass hose available, and if so, where can I get it? I've checked with all the typical Mustang & Shelby parts distributors and see no special listing for that item.
Steve
I'm getting ready to reinstall my intake and will likely use a section of new heater hose. It's worked for me in the past, although I noticed it bulging after long rides in the summer. I had no idea that a special hose was used there until I read Ed's post, pointing it out, and the reasoning it was specified by Ford. I'm hoping that it might be available, considering the lengths some go through to reproduce unique parts. It's not so easy to replace after the engine is reassembled.
Steve
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1969-FORD-MUSTANG-BOSS-429-WATERPUMP-TO-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-BYPASS-HOSE-NEW-OEM-/142275954946
Better
https://www.ebay.com/p/1511214444?ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-53200-19255-0%252F1%253Ficep_ff3%253D2%2526pub%253D5574933636%2526toolid%253D10001%2526campid%253D5337487965%2526customid%253D%2526mpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww%25252Eebay%25252Ecom%25252Fp%25252F1511214444%2526srcrot%253D711-53200-19255-0%2526rvr_id%253D2468082404568%2526rvr_ts%253Da4ca104d1720ad3917932172ff85f415
Quote from: Coralsnake on June 11, 2020, 03:10:44 PM
Better
https://www.ebay.com/p/1511214444?ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-53200-19255-0%252F1%253Ficep_ff3%253D2%2526pub%253D5574933636%2526toolid%253D10001%2526campid%253D5337487965%2526customid%253D%2526mpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww%25252Eebay%25252Ecom%25252Fp%25252F1511214444%2526srcrot%253D711-53200-19255-0%2526rvr_id%253D2468082404568%2526rvr_ts%253Da4ca104d1720ad3917932172ff85f415
Thanks for the leads Pete. At that price, and compared to the other offering, I opted for 2 of those buggers. I should have them in about a week.
Steve
Glad it worked out. Never hurts to check on availability. Many things are hard to find, but sometimes you get lucky
Had to replace one of those at 2:00 am on the side of the road.... there is a trick :) Filled with creek water and made it 100 miles back home . What a PITA !