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Wow, had no idea that black was so rare on a Shelby. That has to mean that my air, 4-speed is a lot rarer than I thought.you got a top of the food chain fastback 68
I know the answer, I just thought it was interesting the question is never asked...I'm like you in that good bones is more important than numbers matching. For decades as a Ford guy I never considered numbers matching to be important and still don't. Being a GM worker the vast majority of car guys at work own GM classics. I always understood why number matching was so important-no engine vin number until 1972 so the way to know was either a tank sticker for some years or numbers matching. But it appears everyone on BaT appears to be numbers matching is the end all. My first post on the 68 on the VIN was really a tongue in cheek post for the numbers guys. I am curious though about the heads and manifolds. They should be 4 speed units if it is a correct engine.
Guys,As Dan(Cobrask8) said about my 69 428SCJ "Under-Cap electronic, MSD Blaster II coil disguised as stock, 8mm Plain black Jacob's wires, plugs were gapped a little bigger." I bought his old car off if his ex back in the winter of 2013. I had no clue what the system was on the car when I started putting the engine bay back together. He has a great memory and when I changed the plugs out they were a larger gap(.042 I believe) than stock. All I can say is the car has hookers on it and a stock M carb now and it runs really strong with zero issues with the ignition which I think should be at least 30 years old? I would not have a problem using a petronix if needed but my points system works great on my GT350(351W). When I first started to get the car running after dropping the engine back in it wouldn't fire. A Machine repair friend from work and a big Chevy guy who has done more BBCs for people than anyone I know told me to sand/file the NOS points. Did it and the car fired right up. Always learning then and now. Thanks for your insight on other systems to use. Gary
All I am saying is you can take a 'chance' with Pertronix. OR use a reliable, OEM, readily available set up (and parts store friendly) Ford Dura-Spark II. Its your choice. I have been using the Dura-Spark since the 1980s, and NEVER experienced a failure. My worthless two cents...
Depends who you talk to. I once color changed 2 Shelbys. Both I got more for them than I would have at the time in their original colors for what they were. Some will disagree with me. I built my vert the way I wanted it and don't care about resale value as I've owned the car for over 37 years now and never plan on selling it but my 3 kids will have to fight over it(unless I buy another car to=3). Other cars that came and went I did the cars with an endgame sale in mind but did them as right as I could with what I had. My vert is a MCA Papered concours gold driven car. To me that means a lot. Here is the underside of my car before reto. The purist should say I should restore it like it came from the factory. Well I bet not one of them would do this. LOL. Lots of bare metal due to clogged sprayer(s). When cleaned the candy apple red underside is striking. The rear frame rails look so good I couldn't bring myself to mount a set of tie down hooks to them. I could carefully mask everything off and spray charcoal met batch paint so to speak to mimic the original color after DP90ing the surface for a black color base. These days though I recommend taking Jeff's approach if you want to maximize you investment.Pete, I went for a "more perfect" car when I did my car which I finished 20 years ago. I painted my outer aprons red and my under carriage all red. I didn't want it factory since a sprayer was clogged when my car went down the line and didn't want a large area to be bare metal. I cleared in the hood stripes also. These things can be "fixed" relatively easy by me other than removing sound deadener on the outer aprons(I swear it was there from factory but can't prove it now).
Did that affect the value of your car at all?
+1 I have heard too many failures over the years with Petronix but that was MANY years ago(90s). I pass by a building with their logo on it all the time and wonder if it is them. Wixom Mi.20+ years in a 428 on a petronix one unit....priceless !
Tony,
You are one of the lucky ones...
Petronix...I remember when my friend never made it to a show as his petronix fried in his CJ 69 Mach1 on the way to the show. I'm not well versed on after market ignitions but know the one on my Mach1 that Cobrask8 put in decades ago works great and the NOS points I put in my GT350 with the stock 1970 setup still works great more than 2 decades later and has never failed me. Cruising stock is fine. Want more performance then aftermarket might be the way to go.Gary, you are correct. Under-Cap electronic, MSD Blaster II coil disguised as stock, 8mm Plain black Jacob's wires, plugs were gapped a little bigger. Great system, something I recommend to everybody. Looks stock, much better than points and stock coil.
MSD + Petronix = Stealth and reliable
Gary, you are correct. Under-Cap electronic, MSD Blaster II coil disguised as stock, 8mm Plain black Jacob's wires, plugs were gapped a little bigger. Great system, something I recommend to everybody. Looks stock, much better than points and stock coil.I like the look at it is non invasive. I'm happy with the performance.
When they where just used cars.....they still areFor Sale. Southern car. Never seen winter.....
Yup! Gary gave the Mach 1 the sorting and once over it needed to be a great street and fun car. I had it good and it ran, but it needed cleaning up and detailing, and now she's a great fun car.When I start of the car and the way it sounds I nicknamed it the beast. When I fire it up anywhere people know its running. Dan, you put an appropriate exhaust "note" on my car. The only real change is a factory date coded correct "M" code restored carb back on it.
Then again, those who really know me, know I am a non-original guy. I like them set up to run, handle, and be a better driver than when stock. That Mach saw many an open track at SAAC conventions, ran like a beast! And drove home.
And now, I have the screwiest replica Cobra out there, and it's getting more! But it's set for the track, and very few can run with it and still be street legal.
To each their own, most important is to be happy with what you have, and enjoy it.
No shame in having a #3 or # 4 or # 5 car.....Just a regular guyI never said there was only stating that in pics my car looks like a number 1 car but it isn't. Still a sharp car. Paint is 32 years old and still shines. Has some dings on the car. other flaws. Underside dirty and headers and exhaust are surface rusty but the car goes like hell as I'm sure Dan can attest to. loud and sounds mean.
The coralsnake has a vast collection of pics of cars over the decades many before they were restored and just projects. His take on many 68s that are "restored" is invaluable. Many do not know the past history nor care to do their homework. In some cases that may come back to bite them in the rear. Too many are worried more about "matching numbers" than the "bones" of the car. I'd argue the bones are more important that a stamped block-some which are more than likely a restamp anyways.
Looks great, but a little research might dissuade some.
Yes. I saw pictures of it before the restoration. Coralsnake remembers the history, and I can confirm.
" It's a great market for Shelbys, no matter the past history."
Have fun with 7 & 8 no matter what you take off!!!Yes better with the valve covers off and hopefully the prior owner installed the plugs correctly like they did on my Mach1
Besides valve covers off, I also jacked up the car from the middle to relax the export brace, and took that off too.
Put in a high-power ignition system, so you don't have to change them again! I did in my 428 SCJ 4-sp.
. I only changed mine because they were in the engine since...I think Dan changed them last. The ignition system still works great. The problem though is that the tires are too slippery. They keep spinning real easy.
