SAAC Forum

Small block and big block cars had a 1/2" offset of the drivetrain to the right side for the reasons explained above.

Dan got right back to me and has the original spec ones for $20 per. Thanks much for the link.

I thought adjustable shocks were an aftermarket race car addition. These factory shocks are cool. They are FoMoCo marked and adjustable!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/appVTnDSgWpX4GW37
I can't find original spec FoMoCo shocks anywhere, they are all aftermarket. I certainly can't find parts for them. I was going to steal some rubbers out of a new pair of Monroe's but they are a different eye length and diameter so I doubt will work.

This is only a question as I can't find the original spec rubber bushings. If I replace them with rubber-bushed assemblies I like the idea of plug-welding the holes. Appreciate the input as always.

This is such detailed and insightful information, thanks again so much to the experts for their input. Indeed where rust is starting the cancerous invasion the partial surviving factory coatings have to be removed and surfaces cleaned. The rust must obviously be removed, cleaned and neutralized and I can then get on with duplicating factory coatings applied in the correct order and places.
I am dropping the rest of the front suspension out so I can get good access to the inside of the front fenders. That is exactly what the situation is right now, the top of a slippery slope. It looks like you guys will be able to help me with when to say when.

That is what I'm seeing like the control arm and idler arm bushings they are molded rubber bushes with steel sleeves. It is important with this style they are tightened up at ride height, steering centered etc. The bushing gets clamped into place by the bolt and is spring-loaded by the rubber back to its normal position.

The car here has the larger spare hold-down disc for the Magnum 500's with no holes in it. That inner fender indent for the spare is factory but someone with a hammer has pounded the indent out.

I am going over the underside of 6S2371 to make it drive like a new-condition 56-year-old sport car. It is a very original, great shape, low mileage car with a touch over 21k miles.
The car is in such good original condition I am being very selective about what, how, and how much to refurbish.
I'm going to have plenty of questions as I go through this car and very much appreciate the expertise here. I can just keep updating this thread or post my observations and questions under separate posts.
I have the front suspension apart right now. The biggest source of play in the steering was the idler arm bushing. I got a replacement SilentBloc from Virginia Classic Mustang and have since figured out why the replacement idler arms are sold as assemblies. That's a tough part to replace but it's in there! Just need to center the steering before tightening it up.
It also has a nominal amount of play in the steering box. I have a rebuild kit here but it looks like an adjustment will take care of that. Good article on it herehttp://www.stangerssite.com/adjustment.html
I went to replace the front shock rubber mounts and cannot find them, even harder to find are the parts in rubber. The upper shock bushing on there now is a piece of radiator hose. I got some gas Monroe shocks from O'Reilly's that I will probably throw out after stealing the rubber mount washers and bushings out of them.
My most recent dilemma is the front spring perches. I can't find replacement bushings that aren't improved and updated as bearings or polyurethane.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.