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Messages - mickmate

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CSX1000, 4000, 7000, 8000 / Re: Engine off set
« on: June 30, 2023, 07:36:04 PM »
Small block and big block cars had a 1/2" offset of the drivetrain to the right side for the reasons explained above.

CSX 3000 Series / Re: Ethanol, gas
« on: June 30, 2023, 07:23:54 PM »
Fuel cells have foam inside used as a baffle, they have a bladder or liner for the can, and they have gaskets between the filler and pickup plates. The ethanol eats the foam and puts it through your fuel system, it eats the bladder causing leaks and it eats the gaskets between the bladder and the can. Fuel cell manufacturers have limited or no warranty on the cells. They are good business for me, I make a lot of replacement tanks for the cells and some cells I convert to tanks. Good advice already on the additives.

Dan got right back to me and has the original spec ones for $20 per. Thanks much for the link.

Thanks Jeff, I will make an attempt to use the search engine on here.
It looks like these are pretty close to working.

I thought adjustable shocks were an aftermarket race car addition. These factory shocks are cool. They are FoMoCo marked and adjustable!
I can't find original spec FoMoCo shocks anywhere, they are all aftermarket. I certainly can't find parts for them. I was going to steal some rubbers out of a new pair of Monroe's but they are a different eye length and diameter so I doubt will work.


Trying to see if an image will go through. The top front shock bushings are a piece of cooling hose as can be seen by the twine reinforcing. Is that original spec or has someone got creative?

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Sympathetic restoration for driveability
« on: February 01, 2023, 05:52:12 PM »
This is only a question as I can't find the original spec rubber bushings. If I replace them with rubber-bushed assemblies I like the idea of plug-welding the holes. Appreciate the input as always.

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Sympathetic restoration for driveability
« on: February 01, 2023, 05:23:19 PM »
The coil spring saddle with rubber bushing also has holes in it for rubber pads. The GT350 has no holes or pads in the saddle. I assume that this is correct and original. Do you guys have any thoughts on what to do now?

Trying to attach a picture.

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Sympathetic restoration for driveability
« on: January 02, 2023, 01:41:41 PM »
This is such detailed and insightful information, thanks again so much to the experts for their input. Indeed where rust is starting the cancerous invasion the partial surviving factory coatings have to be removed and surfaces cleaned. The rust must obviously be removed, cleaned and neutralized and I can then get on with duplicating factory coatings applied in the correct order and places.
I am dropping the rest of the front suspension out so I can get good access to the inside of the front fenders. That is exactly what the situation is right now, the top of a slippery slope. It looks like you guys will be able to help me with when to say when.

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Sympathetic restoration for driveability
« on: December 28, 2022, 09:32:23 AM »
Serious preservation question here. Under the wheel wells, in this case the right front, the factory finishes can be seen. An interesting observation to me is that the front subframe is galvanised. The underside has the red lead primer, what do they call that stuff? With a coating of rubberized undercoating. The undercoating is thick and liberally applied, it has become brittle and cracked over the years. Some had already fallen off in chunks, other pieces I lifted off with a fingernail. To my question finally, some of the exposed metal behind it is bright and shiny and looks new, other parts like the corner have held moisture behind the cracked underseal and rusted more heavily. What would you do to preserve it as the time capsule that it is? I'm going to try for a picture.

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Sympathetic restoration for driveability
« on: December 24, 2022, 04:09:56 PM »
That is what I'm seeing like the control arm and idler arm bushings they are molded rubber bushes with steel sleeves. It is important with this style they are tightened up at ride height, steering centered etc. The bushing gets clamped into place by the bolt and is spring-loaded by the rubber back to its normal position.

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Help with metering block gasket
« on: December 23, 2022, 07:23:03 PM »
I believe the 3255 and 3259 are the same on float bowl gaskets. I have had to use a Mopar gasket on my 3255 with the little bump out on one edge and different block-offs. They are different gaskets to a 4150.

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Spare tire mounting plate/disc
« on: December 23, 2022, 02:13:31 PM »
The car here has the larger spare hold-down disc for the Magnum 500's with no holes in it. That inner fender indent for the spare is factory but someone with a hammer has pounded the indent out.

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Sympathetic restoration for driveability
« on: December 23, 2022, 02:09:44 PM »
Thanks all for your input. The car owner has specified it be the original spec parts used. I tried the approach of unbolting all the original suspension and bolting on new, improved, aftermarket parts but we are going correct original with selective and minimal restoration. The spring perches don't have any rubber or traces of rubber on the perches or on the springs. Should they be metal on metal with a 350?

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Sympathetic restoration for driveability
« on: December 22, 2022, 10:22:37 AM »
I am going over the underside of 6S2371 to make it drive like a new-condition 56-year-old sport car. It is a very original, great shape, low mileage car with a touch over 21k miles.
The car is in such good original condition I am being very selective about what, how, and how much to refurbish.
I'm going to have plenty of questions as I go through this car and very much appreciate the expertise here. I can just keep updating this thread or post my observations and questions under separate posts.
I have the front suspension apart right now. The biggest source of play in the steering was the idler arm bushing. I got a replacement SilentBloc from Virginia Classic Mustang and have since figured out why the replacement idler arms are sold as assemblies. That's a tough part to replace but it's in there! Just need to center the steering before tightening it up.
It also has a nominal amount of play in the steering box. I have a rebuild kit here but it looks like an adjustment will take care of that. Good article on it here
I went to replace the front shock rubber mounts and cannot find them, even harder to find are the parts in rubber. The upper shock bushing on there now is a piece of radiator hose. I got some gas Monroe shocks from O'Reilly's that I will probably throw out after stealing the rubber mount washers and bushings out of them.
My most recent dilemma is the front spring perches. I can't find replacement bushings that aren't improved and updated as bearings or polyurethane.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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