Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - TedS

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 13
Sounds good. Hope I can make it this year.

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Restoration Shop recommendation
« on: February 04, 2023, 01:31:11 PM »
Another possible resource is Hunter Willard. Walnut Cove, NC. Just north of Winston-Salem.

I have an unrestored KR with original strips. These photos basically confirm the instructions provided. While my strips don't go behind the wheel well trim I believe the intent is that they're trimmed tightly with no body color showing. Where the strips wrap at door edges/jamb they are trimmed where the quarter panel or door skin ends. In my case, the door skin is trimmed cleanly adjacent to the jamb but not so much at the front fender.

Carolina Region SAAC / Re: Americarna is Back
« on: November 30, 2022, 08:05:15 AM »
Thanks Bill. Good job with photos and video.

Up For Auction / Re: 8T02R215940-04170 on BAT
« on: July 08, 2022, 09:14:13 PM »
$180,000 7/8/2022

Appeals / Re: What insurance do you guys use
« on: July 01, 2022, 04:10:14 PM »
Here's a discussion from April that might be useful.

SAAC-47 / Re: Saac 47 pictures anyone?
« on: June 24, 2022, 01:15:48 PM »
Thanks to all who took the time to take photos and videos and share with us all. Very enjoyable.

SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: Security System/GPS
« on: April 02, 2022, 12:53:32 PM »
This is one I have. Seems to work good.

It's OK, I'm not in a hurry. It's just on my to-do list.

Concours Talk / Re: My Rear End
« on: March 25, 2022, 11:59:00 AM »
Just reading the subject line I knew this thread would get weird.

Yea Jeff, I meant starter delay. Late in the day and working with an old brain. I'll edit the post to correct so it doesn't lead anyone astray.
On the other point, no, it's a fastback and thanks for your efforts.

Yea, I know this looks like crap but that's how it is after 50+ years, that's why I'm here. Also, you'll notice the starter wiring is a little different, that's because of a RobbMc starter. I also know I'm missing the starter delay but that's for another day. I would like to clean this up but can't find any go-by pictures. In all pictures I find, this area is hidden by the air cleaner snorkel. If anyone has a clear picture of this area for a KR I'd appreciate seeing it.

Thanks in advance

Thanks for the info guys. Much appreciated.

SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Restarting a non-Ford after long sleep
« on: March 13, 2022, 10:22:15 AM »
I'm planning to restart a non-Ford (1973 455 Pontiac) after a 25+year sleep. I was warned that I should be concerned about valve stems breaking due to carbon that had previously built up on the stems causing the stem to weaken. This breaking may not occur right away but could be a few hundred miles later. Anyone have opinions on this?

Thanks in advance

1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: Shelby Hubcaps
« on: February 26, 2022, 08:50:52 PM »
Sorry to be late getting back to this but my car is in remote storage and it took a while to get to it. I've worked on cars for over 60 years and most if not all hubcaps I've encountered could be damaged if hit anywhere other than around the outside rim. 68 hubcaps have a very robust center section with the cast spoke portion. I'm sure a lot of folks know this but here's my method of installing. Align the hole in the cap with the valve stem and start that area into the steel wheel. Holding this position with one hand take a rubber mallet and hit the spoke opposite the valve stem about a third of the way down the spoke. Angle the blow a back toward center. One good measured blow will most likely seat the eagle claws into the wheel all the way around. You can then continue to use the mallet to strike all around the hubcap rim to seat it as much as it will go. I could never get the hubcap rim to seat flush to the wheel. You can use the heal of your hand in place of the mallet but I have such delicate hands that would never work for me. :-)

I also found a flat (wide) prybar works well for removal. Its wide enough not to distort the rim and will dislodge the cap with one motion.


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 13