SAAC Forum

Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 24, 2024, 09:10:36 PMFYI I just saw a bogus Ebay auction for a C8AF-11001-A 428CJ Starter. A genuine starter will have the engineering number metal stamped in the center barrel along with the metal stamped AUTOLITE trademark. This rebuilder puts a ink stamp (which was phased out in later 67 production). Stay away from these guys
 https://www.ebay.com/itm/284302210702

Agree with the starter not being marked as it should. At least with small block starters the ink stamping continued into 69 production with a period of overlap when both marking styles could be found on starts being installed at the car plants

Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 21, 2024, 04:54:12 PMAll of those observations indicate a regular Mustang adjusted proportioning valve regardless of if in a original car or not. Any threads after the relief on the side of the adjuster represents more then 10 threads. Possible replaced like many have with a service unit which is adjusted to regular Mustang specs from Ford.

Appears by my count that there are six examples I posted that are adjusted for Mustang.

Looks like I did list possibly three examples that appear to be in the 10 thread range (depends on what side your counting I would guess. Three of the examples are either low mileage and reported to not have been replaced by the original owner and all three are unrestored. Two of the three still has some black paint on the main body and not on the adjuster.

Just sharing as r  equested

Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 20, 2024, 11:07:18 PMI am tying to get a consensus on the number of threads showing on undisturbed 65 66 GT350 proportioning valve adjuster.

Not all om those that I have pictures of are at the right angle to count the number of thread but here is what I have on file. The number of visible threads likely vary based on what side your viewing from




Just 1966 models below in a fairly quick pass through the pictures

1- Approx 10 threads or 3/4" from base to end two additional thread past the base of the reliefs in the sides

2- Approx 10 - one additional thread past the base of the reliefs in the sides

3- Approx 15 (later car)

4- 4 threads pass the relief in the side of the threaded

5- Approx 15 (later car)

6- Approx 11 (later car)

7- Approx 2-3 past the relief

8- Approx 12

9- Approx 3 past the end of the relief PS

10- Approx 3 past the end of the relief PS - Carry over car

Hope this helps

Concours judging is very different compared to 2010 or even earlier

Quote from: 65GT350dragster on April 14, 2024, 02:56:22 PMShelby kits sold in 1965 to install on stock Mustangs?

Yes and other Fords

Here is a picture of a dress up kit and two of the round emblems included




 

Quote from: 65GT350dragster on April 14, 2024, 02:56:22 PMMy father entered the car in concours event at a SAAC meet in S Mass sometime around 2010.  The judging hit him up for a loose badge, but not the style.  Sadly, he has since passed.  Can I assume this round badge is period correct and appropriate?  ....................

If entered now I would think that the Concours team in div II would discuss the badge and make a comment. A very small deduction for it would not surprise me or they might just talk to the owner about it and suggest that next time its removed before showing.

Looks like the ones included in the Shelby Kits. IMHO likely the source. Often installed on/in the fender  (double posts if I recall correctly)

Its possible that that is the source and the owner only had one rather than two so he choose the grill instead of the fenders  IMHO Day #2 modification

Thanks for all your efforts and time

First step - do you have power to one of the posts/brushes behind the wheel?

second - what happens (horns work) when you, for a second, apply power to the other post/brush?

Be aware that paint will not outlast plating. In both cases the hinges will rub the bases and on the painted surfaces will rust. On plated (if cared for with the use of preserving oil) will not or should not rust if you keep up the application

For the painted don't clear coat it. And if applied to heavy it will leave a smooth somewhat glossy finish neither something you are looking for. Also using paint will take more effort when it comes time to repaint and is much more difficult to touch up if it can be  where the P&O can be touched up in place (depending on where the issue is)

Drivers side shock tower near the top end typically

Originals

Quote from: DP Customs on March 28, 2024, 03:16:53 PM
I'm chipping away at 55 years of wiring butchery on this '69 Shelby and found this resistor mounted inside the engine bay.  Someone hacked into the dash harness and ran a couple of pink wires to it.  I'm guessing this wasn't original equipment? I'm hoping someone can confirm. 

No that is not factory

Believe the individual numbers possibly identified the mold number

Quote from: rraceme on March 26, 2024, 06:49:52 PM
Jeff couple more questions.  When owners restore these cars do the have some of the different styled screws body color and the others not?

Yes the goal or task is restore these and other cars to as they were originally built so yes this will very likely be looked at shows were there are judges that are familiar with 66 San Jose/Shelby production.

Guess the question would be, why would a restorer not want to duplicate this detail other others and still refer to their efforts as restoring

Quote from: rraceme on March 26, 2024, 06:49:52 PM2nd  question.... why didn't the factory put all the screws in at once? What was the value of just some pan head screws being installed prior painting. Seems like all screws would be installed at same time. Thanks again for everyone's amazing knowledge.  Fred

Wasn't there and have not found and talked to the guy that made that decision. To us 50 years it might seem obvious as to what would be best or easiest but we were not there. Maybe this quickened up the rear valance installation so that part of the line could keep up. It is interesting that the other two Mustangs plant did install all of the top screws prior to paint. Don't know why that happened either 


Here are some shots of the two screw heads from an angle. Hope this helps. As the note says ignore the finish of the screws in the pictures. These were taken from different applications but the type/style of screw heads are what the focus is. The flat style is often used to retain the door upper weatherstrip stainless to the body on some applications and years. Just a place to find them

Quote from: SFcarbuff on March 25, 2024, 07:50:49 PM
Thanks,  Is the logo in the middle near the bottom?

Old style CarLite
Yes middle near bottom

By the time your car was originally built as mentioned a rear valance with round holes was installed. Dating these panels can be fun since they typically have two dates stamped in the metal. One from the rear (as the panel is mounted) and one from the exterior side. Both at or near the upper edge.




By the time the car was built there were two different types/styles of attaching screws used. One style (flat headed) installed when the valance was attached to the unibody before the car was painted. These two screws were typically installed in the second or third hole from each end of the valance. The rest of the screws (pan heads) were  installed after the car was painted and the valance was pulled into the unibody at the bottom and these upper screws installed

Unrestored example very close to your cars assembly period..




I would say that the rear valances with the back up light holes were in the service parts system during and just after the cars were produced. Left overs and addition ones made from production of the cars but long term it didn't make much sense to produce and stock two versions since it would just increase stocking costs and other things.

Quote from: Bob Gaines on March 18, 2024, 07:37:57 PM
Sometimes you can find the big books on Ebay or swap meets.

+1 They are great resources though a bit bulky and a challenge to store since they are not on the typical book or page size format