SAAC Forum

Does anyone have any recommendations for a carburetor rebuilder for my Holley 3259-1 in the Texas region?  I've seen some other post on here with recommendations in the Eastern region; however, I'm hoping that there are some in my area that someone can recommend.  Thanks in advance!

I've been chasing an electrical issue with my car.  Six months ago I replaced my turn signal switch (thanks B. Gaines for the hint about removing the steering wheel), and everything was working great; horn, hazards, blinkers, brake lights, turn signals all worked.  After driving around for a few weeks, someone told me that my passenger brakes weren't working.  So I went home, checked them (verified wiring sequences with my shop manual) and they were working fine. 

Couple drives later, I kept checking to see that they were working, and I noticed the passenger brake/hazards weren't working one day.  I figured that a wire may have come loose from the connection under the steering column, but they were all just fine.  I re-plugged the connector and everything worked fine.  However, couple days later I noticed the same thing with my passenger lights working sometimes and sometimes not. 

Now they don't work at all (passenger brake and hazard), and I'm scratching my head.  When I turn on my running lights, both sides (passenger and driver sides) work (not a bulb grounding issue).  Did I get a crummy turn signal switch?  Any suggestions on what else I should check?       

Thanks in advance for any help!
Jim

I replaced my clock this morning, and I noticed this blue relay (not sure what to call it) that wasn't connected to anything. The wiring diagram book has it labeled as flasher assembly. Looking at pictures online, and I don't see this blue assembly on any other cluster.  My flasher relay is located behind my heater controls, am I missing something here? 

I'm needing to rebuild my brake distributor, but I'm having issues finding the right rebuild kit.  The only one that I find that looks legit is from West Coast Classic Cougars, but I wanted to check here before I purchase.  Does anyone have any leads on the right 67 rebuild kit for the brake distributor? 

Thanks in advance!

Bought a new set of intake bolts for the 289. Is the attached torque spec sheet correct?  Since the car is 54 years old, should the torque be de-rated at all for the rebuilt 289 and aluminum intake?  Thanks in advance for any help.

Did these cars come with a gas lid screw cap?  I only have the pop down cover on my car, but it seems like gasoline goes bad really quick in my car (<2 months). I recently installed a new gas tank and rubber fuel lines on the car. However, I had to pull the carb and I noticed that the new gas that was placed in a new tank, was already yellowish (not dark, but getting there). I'm just wondering if I'm venting off gas vapors which is causing the gasoline to yellow. I know that ethanol makes this worse, but I wouldn't expect 2 month gas to do this that quickly.

I've included pictures on my gas lid, if it helps.

Doing an engine rebuild On the GT350, and I had a new 157 pin ring gear installed on the flywheel (found some worn teeth during the year down).  I just tried to do the break in on the motor, and I found my starter is grinding when I try to start the car (tried twice and rotated the flywheel to see if it would help the starter engage better)  Pulled the starter and found the bendix teeth to be good and luckily the flywheel showed no signs of damage. To get the car started tonight, I tried a rebuilt starter, but it was 3/100" bigger than my original starter and didn't mate up to the flex plate. Has anyone tried a mini starter on their 289?  If so, which one did you go with? 

Thanks in advance for any help!

I have a 67 289 K Code that I'm finishing up a rebuild on. This is my first time that I have rebuilt this engine, but the oil volume is now in question. In the past (before engine rebuild), I would add 7.5 quarts of oil almost exactly, which showed to be full mark on my dipstick. I just primed the newly rebuilt engine with 7 quarts of oil, and the engine oil level on the dipstick (same one as before) is above the full line. I'm scratching my head on why this is different. For the guys that have a t pan (yes I know that it's not period correct), how much oils do you add to your car? 

Thanks!

Rebuilding my 289 HiPo, and I'm finding different information for the rocker stud torque. Can someone please confirm that I should torque them to 70 ft-lbf. Thanks!

My hazards quit working on my car a couple weeks ago.  Everything else (blinkers, hi/lows, headlights, etc) works fine, but my hazards don't work at all.  I tried replacing the hazard fuse with a fuse from O'Reillys, but that didn't work.  I consulted a friend of mine that is knowledgeable on Shelbys, and he suggested that the Shelby's required a different fuse due to the additional tail light bulbs vs. your typical mustang (more bulbs require more current draw).  When I search on Google and this site for the proper hazard fuse, I'm not able to find any information on the proper fuse.  Any help would be greatly appreciated! 

Does anyone know where I can find a repacement wiring kit that goes from the fire wall to the actual horns (not to the steering wheel horn button)?  Over the years, mine have been cut and spliced from previous owners and I would like to clean it up. I just can't believe that someone would cut and splice wires instead of just disconnecting them, but I guess it gives me something to do. Thanks for any help.

I tried searching for this, but couldn't find it in the forum.  What do you guys use to treat your original steering wheels?  Thanks for any input on this, as my steering wheel is looking dried out.