SAAC Forum

What would be the proper procedure for requesting copies of any available documents that SAAC has pertaining to my car.  Auction pictures of shelbys on BAT, for example, show a variety of documents such as invoices, etc. that would be of interest to any shelby owner especially the official Serial Number Verify document.  The only thing I have is a 2019 email response from Howard Pardee verifying that my vin matches 6s855.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.   

I have a 1985 Holley reissue 715 3259-1 that's dribbling gas inside and outside its' bowls. The front metering block is marked 4756 and rear is marked 4560 the same as the original 65/66's.  Are they the same?  I don't know, but clearly it's time to check for float problems and replace the gaskets.  Since this is a 4150 style carb I could try to match up my current gasket holes with pictures I see on various vendor ads, but there's no guarantee what's in there now is correct.  Here's a typical ad for 4150 replacement gaskets:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-108-200

I'm hoping someone with a reissue carb has been down this road before and can give me a hand.

Just got done replacing worn-out and boogered parts of my front suspension.  Not expecting any local Hunter alignment shops to know how to properly shim my control arms, I asked if they could just roll me on the rack and tell me what my current specs are.  Then I could shim it myself.  But what I got was helpless shrugs.  They couldn't do it because a 66 mustang was not in their alignment database.  So my question is there any way for the Hunter guys to read out the alignments specs for a car not in their database?  Or if I have to align it myself, is there any on here who have purchased a reasonably priced tool that would give good results?  Thanks for your help.

Like others on here, I'm struggling to adjust my 715 holley and trying to follow the suggestions made in other posts on tuning.  The carb I'm using is an 80's reissue (1985 Julian date) that I thought had a fuel level sight plug except it's on the primary metering block, not the fuel bowl.  Taking the bowl off shows that the plug hole casting is not open to the fuel bowl and clearly not a sight plug.  A holley schematic/parts list for a 4150 (only picture I could find) names  this part as a "spark hole plug"!   Seems like a curious name to give a part on a carb filled with gasoline.  So does anyone know what this is?  Why poke a hole in the metering block and then close it up with a plug?

I'm having trouble with leaking from the master cyl front brake line fitting as well as leaks from both fittings to the proportioning valve.
Both the MC and Valve have been re-sleeved and rebuilt with new kits.  The MC is an early style that needs both inverted flare brass fittings; straight-thread 3/8 x 24 on bottom and 3/8 x 27 NPT on top.  The NPT fitting seals fine, but the bottom straight-thread weeps past the threads under pressure.  They are both purchased from NPD.  When I measured the OD of the straight it was not 3/8 (.375") but .365" which makes it "loose" when screwed in and apparently will not seal against the MC.  I suppose I could anneal and use a copper crush washer behind it like you would use on a flex hose to the caliper to seal it or ask NPD to get their micrometer out and find me a .375" fitting.  Any thoughts??

As for the proportioning valve, the inverted flare M and R seats  have "scars" from all the tightenings of previous fittings.  I'm using new Classic Tube brake lines, but their tube flares have sharp edges not like the old lines whose edges are flatter and wider.  I'm guessing the Classic flares are not sealing against the "scars".  If there were a way to smooth out the "scars" that might do it.  Or I could sand the Classic flare ends to get a wider flat area to seal against.  But I'm hoping the mechanics on this site have seen this before and help me out.  This is the only thing keeping 6s855 off the road.  Very frustrating!  Thanks.

Just put the rebuilt engine and trans back in 6s855 and am puzzled to see that they seem set too far forward.  I believe I may have
mis-assembled the mounts by swapping the top brackets that bolt to the block (C30Z-6068-C) to the wrong sides.  This bracket has a "bulge" that is not centered but offset more to one side.  I've stolen the only picture I could find from Virginia Mustang that seems to show the "bulge" offset to the front.  Mine are offset to the rear.  So before I start jacking to remove my mounts for a redo, I'm hoping for confirmation of my screw-up.

I'm close to getting 6s855 back on the road.  It should end up as a decent #3 driver with quite a few of it's original parts restored.  So wanting to
keep it's original look and replace it's currently generic (probably chrysler) magnum 500's I bought the new 66 registry thinking 855 probably was ordered with grey or chrome magnums.  But I was surprised to learn it came with 10-spokes.  I was also surprised to see that after 30 years of seeing ads for repro
14" x 6 wheels from multiple vendors, the only fake ones I see are 15-17 inches now.  NPD has an ad for 14" 10-spokes but if their picture is accurate
the color looks way too dark.  Is anyone still offering new 14 inchers?  Or is a WTB ad here my only choice?

I'm hoping that someone on here has found a place that can rebuild a 12V radiator or blower motor. Perhaps not for your shelby but maybe for another of your cars.  Replacing them with a chinese repro is not possible for those of us with low-volume "furren" cars with odd-ball mounting brackets and cases.  Anyone with an old brit car knows what I mean.  Thanks.

I've got a L4 date (nov 1964) hipo harmonic balancer to trade for an early 66 date coded one (A-D 6).  Part is used but not abused.  PM if interested.

Does anyone know the process that Ford used to deliver small batches of engines to various car builders?  That would mean exporting a dozen hipos to TVR in England or some 260's to Sunbeam for their tigers as well as USA deliveries to Griffith on Long Island and of course Shelby for cobras.  I read somewhere that an entity called "Ford Industrial Engine" handled this, but no explanation of what it was.  There's an ID tag glued to the hipo valve cover of my 68 TVR Tuscan that says "Ford Industrial Engine" and might be a clue.

So if you wanted to order just 10 hipos from Ford, how would that work?  Have some guy on a fork lift go down the assembly line looking through the 289's and picking out a random 10?  Was there a different assembly line for each type? 260's here? 289 2 barrels there? 289 hipos over there?  With thousands of engines being built, how do you select out just a few?

Inquiring minds want to know, or at least this one does.

Jay

Looking for a shop within driving distance of virginia that one could trust with rebuilding the 289 hipo from my 1968 TVR Tuscan.  Years ago, Ford had a hotline for historical technical questions similar to Pontiac's PHS that I called to query about this engine's unusual ID tag.  It had a "Ford Industrial Engine" id plate affixed to a valve cover with a "C7PW-6001-CF" "Type" code and other numbers stamped in it.  I took a lot of shit over the Industrial engine tag by the chevy boys until I blew their doors off in revenge.  It always seemed that my engine ran a lot stronger then the standard hipo.  So I called this hotline and was told that orders of small batches of engines that Ford got from boutique car companies like TVR, Intermeccanica, and maybe Sunbeam couldn't be easily plucked out of the middle of the high volume engine plant.  Instead Ford had another facility that hand-built small batches for a company like TVR who bought only 24 in 1968.  I have #6.  That probably explains why mine ran so good.

So I'm understandably nervous about handing over an engine possibly containing unique or date-stamped parts that might be "misplaced" as has happened to me in the past even from "reputable" rebuilders.

So if anyone has had a positive experience with a shop that you think would be sensitive to the unique nature of my problem, I would be much obliged