SAAC Forum

I'm looking at this Silver Jade car and where the front side hood bumpers mount has a large rectangular hole on each side. The hole there is usually just big enough for a rubber bumper to squeeze into(see pic of my red car).  So whats up with that. Car sure looks original on both front aprons and I suspect the caulk used is covering the big hole for rubber bumper clearance in the apron? Car built beginning of Feb.

I used to look for parts all the time. I have saved searches that I get emails on. I don't have time to sift through all of the BS to see what I am looking for. Any suggestions to get the spam out of ebay searches? I tried tagging some from time to time buy ebay doesn't give a rat's a$$. Here is my email on the 68 Shelby console search. Look at the 5 new "finds".

Going through my original ford green backed snake emblems I have 2 styles. One fits my convertible quarter panel perfectly. In the side pic you can see the curvature of the quarter panel where the emblem sits. How do  know they are in the right position? when I bought my car-plus I have pics when it was new-it had the original Shelby emblems on it. I measure the placement of the rectangular "SHELBY" emblem before removing. I know it was never off because tof pics and the original RED paint under it(masked off on a repaint). What I call the convertible snake has  .054 thousands gap in the center of the emblem on a flat surface. The other style which doesn't fit has about a .025 thousands gap in the center. The vert emblem when set on my Mach1 between the emblem studs is slightly open in the center. The flatter one fits real close but not perfect but probably does when stuck on. Second pic shows the top gap of the flatter .025 emblem on a vert quarter. First pic .054 gap snake fits perfectly.

I sent some pics to Dennis Yoo from a spare tilt column I have. I pulled the column out of a 1969 Mach1 in 1980. Put a new service switch from Ford in it. Ran the column in a 69 Mach1 for 4 years and then my Shelby until 1996. everything worked. Pics are how I wired it and the "spare" wires from a 1 switch fits all service part. I hope this helps some others in the future.

Are the floor drain plugs for a 67 Mustang and Shelby the same from all 3 plants? Hard to find pics for the Dearborn plant. Here is a pic of  a car Vern sold on BaT. 67 Shelby(SJ plant). Thanks

Here are some pics of my original deck lid. Repos don't have holes for the bumpers although someone could add them. Repos don't have the hole for map light wiring. Other holes missing in repo deck lid inner structure. There are other nuances also when compared.

 Anyone building a clone contrary to someone the hoods are available from numerous sources. AH ,Antonio,please forgive me to as I posted the wrong hood from Stang-aholics. Sinve you decided to have the last word and LOCK the topic I felt a need to set the record straight.  https://www.stang-aholics.com/i-24197308-69-70-mustang-shelby-style-sr-69-fiberglass-hood-with-air-inlets-and-outlets.html?ref=brand:99273

https://store.cobranda.com/19shho1.html

https://www.topflightautomotive.com/products/maier-racing-1969-1970-ford-mustang-shelby-style-fiberglass-hood-with-nasa-scoops/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=17252917599&utm_content=&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA0PuuBhBsEiwAS7fsNQBDuIY1mgcsQ5xPdhJokx_8qKgkllBTiKUpBy65jjWSOeqFgJJqlRoCmegQAvD_BwE

Shelby parts and resto has fenders for 1500 a pair new. No stripping of old paint etc. Nice repos!  https://shelbypartsstore.com/product/69-shelby-fiberglass-fenders/

Any pics on how the headlight wiring loom extension was modified-if at all- from the standard 4 headlight system to the Shelby 2 headlight system. Same headlight switch? Thanks

Difference between an original and repo are some dimples it has been said. Can anyone provide detailed pics to the areas on an original bumper that are different than a repo bumper? Thanks.

I was looking at the date on my dist in my 351. It is dated 9F24. June 24. So my assumption based on AO Smith terminating their contract after the 69 model year was that Ford built out 69 Shelbys knowing many would become 70s. The myth being Ford had so many left after production they decided to turn them into 70s. The dist date code means Ford already did their emissions well before that date and started producing 351 distributors for the 1970 model year Shelby. Thoughts?

351w starter cable. Is it the same as a cj or Boss 9? Are there numbers on the cable?

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-ford-mustang-shelby-gt500-green-hornet-re-creation/

Does anyone have good pics of the original 351 standard cooling fan shroud? Of the texture of the shroud. The molded numbers.  Did service shrouds change over the years like they did for the 428 CJ where they moved numbers and it went from a "horse hair" finish to a smooth finish with a few iterations along the way. Thanks in advance. Gary

Happy Thanksgiving to all! What is the correct assy line negative battery cable for a 68 GT350? Any pics? Numbers on the cable? Thanks. Gary

I know it's late in the game but who here are showing cars or going to MCACNs this weekend?

Anyone know whose car this is?
https://www.mecum.com/lots/1102569/1970-shelby-gt500-convertible/

 I have seem to have seen a variance on Trans. I own a RUG-AE2 that I know is a real 69 CJ trans as it is stamped 9F150009 so a 69 Dearborn CJ trans(not in B9 registry). This trans has a drain plug on the bottom. Then I see what I believe is a real RUG AE2 out of a drag pack 69 car that does not have a drain plug on the bottom. Greasy patina trans with the correct tag on it. So I looked at a bunch of 69 B9s that sold on BaT and seen both types in those cars. Any idea what gives here? A running change during the year to eliminate the drain plug?

I've been lucky to find some circa 1968 and 1969 NOS Lucas Lamps. I bought one new in the Ford box and 2 new in the Lucas Boxes. Of course the 68-70 Lamps did not come with covers when bought through Ford. Part number was C8ZZ-15200-D . Notice that this one is assembled like it was going in a 68 Shelby glass rotation and trim ring wise.  Notice the correct ENGLAND lens and small black grommet housing.

We see so many cars here from various selling venues and platforms. Many times the cars are discussed on the forum. So when is it crossing the line commenting on them? I mean, when you see a car that has so much going on with it you think it could be a rebody and such do you keep quiet and let the seller portray it as a car it isn't? Do you point out the warning signs? Or do you just keep quiet and if potential buyers don't seek expert advice on the car then it is a "fool with money is easily parted"? Now I'm not talking about a changed deck lid or doors which we see on 69-70s a lot. 1 piece floor pan on a decent car.  I'm talking about cars to the point there are serious issues with them. Is it good for our hobby to have people ripped off by sellers as it is their own fault for trusting a seller(back to my quotation) or seller's friends or the ignorantly blissed who call these cars great in their posts(when they are not)?. Anyways once in a while a car like that rear its ugly head. Everyone has opinions and they are just that. I'd like to hear opinions on both sides on this. Thanks. Gary

Seems to be some interest and comments on them on another topic so why not have it's own. I'm posting some pics of my original trunk taillight  boards. The back side is smooth. The front side is NOT smooth. Has a texture almost like it was the end result of the paint put on the board. I hope my pics show the texture as I tried to shoot at an angle.