SAAC Forum

I am looking for a new old stock or good operating original Autolite Starter Solenoid for a 1968GT500. 
I believe that the part number is C7AF-11450 -A1.
The build date for the car is December 28, 1967.
The VIN for the car is 8T02S134516-00957.
Call me a 1-831-455-0439 in California
Or email me at  lauranlhoward@live.com

Thanks
Lauran Howard

Can anyone provide who manufactured (ford, motorcraft, autolite) the solenoid for a 1968 GT 500 and the part number?

When I crank the engine when the battery voltage is low, the starter engages with the fly wheel, does not disengage and the engine does not start.  When I am trying to start the engine I can turn the ignition key to the aux position and run position and the starter continues to crank the engine.  I need to disconnect the battery to disengage the starter.  The distributor has a Petronix conversion.  The starter is of original style.  Will this problem go away with a fully charged battery or does something need to be replaced?

My persistent rear main leak no longer exists.  Here is the process I used.  (1) Cleaned the read main and engine block with brake cleaner, (2) I changed to a MAHLE brand of seal, (3) Torqued the main cap to 105 ft-lbs before installing the side seals,(4)  lubricated the side seals with Melling assembly lube, (5)  installed nails without points using a 3 pound lead hammer, (6)  Installed new black Fel-Pro gaskets on the oil pan and windage tray, (7)  Covered with silicone the area where the nails were installed.  ( Torqued oil pan bolts to 9 ft-lbs, (9)  Waited one day for the silicone to dry, (10) Primed the system and it did not leak. 

What is the correct pattern for the inserts for the upholstery for bucket seats of a 1968 Shelby GT500 Fastback?  Is it comfort weave, Kiwi, or something else? Attached is a photo of what I have for upholstery in the back seat.

I have front seat skins by TMI and cushions from Scott Drake.  Should I try to complete the installation or leave it to a professional?  I have never done an installation before.  I have hog rings and pliers.     

I have made the change from an aluminum style Shelby oil pan to a factory style oil pan, added enough 10-30 weight oil to the engine so that dip stick reads full, tried priming the oil pump with a modified distributor tool driven by both and electric drill in the counter clock wise direction and an air tool in a counter clock wise direction, and I have no oil pressure as indicated by my oil pressure gauge in the console.   When the engine oil was drained initially I left the engine in a drained condition for about a week because I had oil contaminated with gasoline in the engine.
 
Five years ago I had this same type of problem.  The problem was solved by removing the oil pan, placing the oil pump in a plastic container holding enough oil to cover the pump, priming the pump in the container, reinstalling the oil pump in the engine, and it worked just fine. 

Is there an easier way of getting the oil pump primed than to go through the process of removing the oil pan since the engine is in the car?

There are now 4 quarts of oil in the engine plus a full oil filter.  Can I add more oil to the engine so that the body of the oil pump is immersed in oil?

Thanks

Lauran

     

Does the rotor on a 428 FE rotate counterclock wise or clockwise?

I removed some dash parts for painting and upon installation of the parts I no longer have power to essentially all parts of the car.  This includes the headlights and tail lights, radio, all instrument panel functions and lights, courtesy lights, and the ignition switch (key to the left, start, and run).  Most of the wiring in the car is new and everything worked fine before the painting project.   The connection between the engine compartment and the interior of the car and all fuses are good.  The battery has a full charge.  Any ideas on how to proceed would be appreciated. 

Lauran

I currently have a Shelby style aluminum oil pan on a FE block.  Included with this installation is a separate windage tray that runs the full length of the engine and is installed with its own gasket prior to the installation of the oil pan. 

I want to remove the aluminum oil pan and replace it with a Scott Drake steel reproduction oil pan.  The Scott Drake oil pan has a small windage tray welded inside the pan.   

Do I keep the extra full length windage tray or eliminate the full length windage tray when I make this change in oil pans?.   

Looking for some tips on the installation of 1968 GT500 door stripes.

What is the best way to removed blue Shelby stripe decals from the base of a door?

What is the best mineral oil for a new circa 1964 427 engine with a solid lifter cam. 

I am currently using Valvoline conventional 10W-30 mineral motor oil with two 4 oz. bottles of ZDDPlus in a Shelby aluminum oil pan.  The instructions for the ZDDPlus are one 4 oz. bottle per 4 or 5 quart oil change and do not save any excess.   

My oil is looking creamy rather than clear on the dip stick. 

I have changed the oil several times over the last two years.  I have 20 miles of driveway driving since the engine was newly rebuilt. 


I am thinking of changing to Brad Penn 71396 high performance 30 weight with anti-wear additives.  Are there others that I should be considering. 

Who makes the best deluxe interior door panels?

I am having problems adjusting both exterior mirrors.  I have determined that there are two adjustment screws for each mirror.  The interior screw appears to have a 5/16 socket head and a flat screw driver head.  The exterior screw is adjusted with a phillips screw driver.  Also, I have purchased a tool to tighten the fitting on the driver side door panel but the four tangs on the tool do not fit tightly on the fitting.   Any assistance would be appreciated.

What is the correct color of paint for the trunk of a GT500?

What is the best method for keeping mice out of a car?

I am looking for a recommendation for a hand held fire extinguisher.

I have an older single carb Branda oval air cleaner I would like to safely mount on a engine in a GT500. Attached in photo of the air cleaner base mounted with a 1/4" - 20 x 2" flanged bolt with serrations.  I am using a serrated head bolt and blue lock tight to attach the base to the carb.  There is a space between the carb and the bracket attached to the air cleaner base.  The base is not mounted tight enough and it turns on the carb.  I have also included a scan of the installation hardware kit currently offered by Branda for a new style air cleaner base.  I can shorten the bolt as one option.  Any other ideas for solving this problem would be appreciated. 

What is the correct color for a 1968 GT500 trunk mat? 

I have a black and white speckled mat that came with the car.  I also have a speckled mat with some brown from National Parts Depot.  Thanks