SAAC Forum

Looking for 67 Close ratio toploader transmission correct for a GT350, Mar 67 build date. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.

Brian

Tire time for my 67. I am wanting to stay with a 70 series tire. From what I can find on the internet, the original E70-15s equate to a modern 205-70r/15. Am wondering if an increase to an F70-15 (215-70r/15) or be a safe choice as far as not having any tire rubbing concerns. Have tried searching the web but not finding much info from anyone running this size. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Brian

GT350. Trying to adjust my reproduction choke cable and can only get it to stop properly in one direction or the other. There seems to be a lot of slack or slop inside the spiral sheathing. The opening, or inside diameter of the spiral wrap looks to be at least twice the diameter of the wire that passes through it. If I adjust it with the choke plate open, knob pushed in, when I pull it out the choke plate closes but the knob keeps coming out, to the point of coming out of the bracket. If I adjust it with the choke plate closed, knob out, when I push it in the knob stops against the bracket but the choke plate is not open all the way. If I pull on the choke wire there's enough slack inside the spiral wrap to let the choke plate close completely. Looking at the older aftermarket choke cable that worked fine, I see that the wire is snug to the spiral wrap. With the repop, I see the cable moving around quite a bit when pulling or pushing on the knob. Seems I might need to rig some kind of spring to help pull the choke plate open all the way. Am I missing something simple here or .....? As always, thanks for any help.

Brian

67 GT350. What's the go to replacement for transfer tube o-rings on the 715 carb? The square cut style. Local speed shop was no help. I see Holley part number 108-97 looks like it could be the answer, but figured I would check here where all the 715 owners hang out. The rebuild kit I got does not have them. FYI, if you buy a rebuild kit, make sure it has 2 of the new style "daytona style" seat assemblies. Mine only had one, but a call to Daytona Parts Company had one in the mail Wednesday afternoon and at my house Saturday. Good service.  Thanks.

Brian

Posted the same question on CMF so I'll cover my options here too. 67 GT350. 4spd. Using a RAM 157 tooth flywheel, model 1527, stock replacement type as sold by NPD. Ring gear is stepped back 3/8" on the flywheel. Front of ring gear is 11/16" back from the starter mounting surface (block plate). I currently have an older NAPA rebuilt starter that has barely been used. When I measure from the mounting surface of the starter to the edge of the drive gear it's appears to be the same 11/16", maybe a few thousandths less. To me that seems extremely close. Is there a spec for this clearance? Any input welcome. Thanks.

Brian

Does anyone have a picture for the P/S hoses where they run from the cooler back to the pump and back to the junction point at the hose bracket? Are they bundled or tied together? Do they just hang or is there some sort of retainer holding them to the apron? Thanks.

Brian

Anyone know if the B302 z-bars are being reproduced anywhere. A few of the vendors who show them say "out of stock" and  few email responses from them say discontinued, no supplier. There is one repop on e-bay, seller is "slipperyjohn" who says the one he has was made by a local tool shop. Trying to find out if he had a batch made or this is a one off. Has anyone dealt with this seller before? FYI I'm looking to use it in a 67 GT350. Thanks. Brian

Making the move in November. Need to know how to register my 67. Regular, antique, classic?? Any help appreciated.

Brian

What is the correct finish? Painted over? Thanks.

Brian

MPC download site says C2DZ-17271-F, 18 tooth gear, for the cable gear. I have the pink gear on the transmission shaft. Just want to confirm that this is right???  3.89 gears. Thanks. Brian

Today I mocked up my engine , hipo exhaust manifolds, hipo h-pipe, 390GT clutch fork and hipo z-bar.I'm wondering if this looks correct. (Hope the pics load, first time following the tutorial) There seems to be quite a bit of misalignment between the lower arm of the z-bar and the end of the clutch fork, almost 3 inches, which I believe is the approximate difference in length between the 390 and 289 clutch forks. The fist pic shows an aluminum bar held from the z-bar rod attaching point to the clutch fork "push point". Looks like a pretty radical angle that would put alot of twisting on the z-bar and rod. Z-bar and fork were purchased from vendors who are on these forums, both from the upper midwest, so I'm pretty sure they sold me the right pieces. Bellhousing is a C5DA-A piece, if that matters. Any help appreciated. Brian

Looking for input on 225/60-15 tires for a 67 GT350, with 1" drop. Street driven but something that is performance oriented ( H-rated? ). I can't say it will never be driven in the rain so something with decent rain handling characteristics. I noticed the General Altimax RT43 on Tire Rack. Looking to stay under $100 per tire. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks. Brian

From what I can see their new website doesn't have any contact info, email or phone number. Last week I sent an email to their older customer service address that I used last year but so far no response. Just wondering if I'm missing something. Hope all is well out there. Thanks. Brian

Has anyone found a source for replacing the chrome bezels on the amp and oil pressure gauges? Are replacement bezels even available? I have my original gauges but the chrome is pretty ratty looking. Thanks. Brian

What is the correct length driveshaft for a GT350 4-speed, u-joints center to center, or any other measurements. Mustangtek used to have a driveshaft page but it's gone now and I can't seem to find the info anywhere else. Thanks. Brian

How much shaft side play is allowed at the lower bushing. Can't feel any side to side at the top but there's a little at the bottom. I read somewhere that for a few years they didn't even use a lower bushing. It also seems that the bushings are no longer available either. Thanks. Brian

Painted or not? Thanks. Brian

Have spent some time searching the web and can't seem to find any info on factory small block clutch specs. I'm specifically interested in the static clamping force, both base 289 and hipo. It's time to pick a clutch kit for my 67 GT350 and want to stay with a Long style, non-counterweighted pressure plate. Will be street driven and looking for an original "feel" on the pedal. Going with all stock clutch linkage and don't want something so heavy that things start bending. I have a previous post up looking for the specs on an old Hays 10CF plate, circa 1981, which I have and is in almost new condition, but don't know the spec on it. Shelby Parts recommends the McLeod with an advertised static force, of 1800 lbs. Hays has their Street 450 kit, 91-2001 with 2800 lbs, according to their tech guys. Quite a difference for 2 "street" clutches. Would like to have numbers on the factory pieces to compare these to. To be honest, I haven't found any other manufacturers offering the Long style set-up. NAPA, chain store?? Any thoughts, opinions or suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks. Brian

Would anyone know what the clamping force is on an older Hays pressure plate, model 10CF. Called Hays/Holley tech support and so far no luck. Just a long shot, but maybe someone on these forums hoards old speed equipment catalogs. Thanks. Brian

Looking for opinions on restoring my Magstars, using my original centers and the newer DOT approved rim, versus buying new reproductions. Other than the approximately $100 per wheel savings by restoring mine, would there be any other factors to consider? Thanks. Brian