SAAC Forum

I owned this car but no stamp on the tag when I had it. Now it's up for Sale and has been stamped 6S455

Car has had work since I owned it but none the less this shouldn't happen.

Alert to the actual owner of 6S455

https://www.australianmusclecarsales.com.au/cars/1966-ford-shelby-mustang-gt350-replica-244670

My KR Tiltaway steering works when it feels like it.

I can hear the selenoid working each time the door is opened but it randomly will tilt the steering wheel up and away.

Is there something sticking that can e lubricated so that it works each time?

What are the recommended and the best wheel alignment settings be to get stable driving car at cruising speed of 70mph on country roads where there could be uneven roads and truck ruts

And also to get the steering to self centre

Thanks in advance

Ross

How much, if any slack movement, would there be in the pitman arm where it connects to the  control valve before there is movement at the wheel?

Thanks in advance

Ross

I put a steering rebuild kit through my KR control valve and made the adjustments to the valve as per spec but I find the car is sensitive on the highway to the slightest roughness in a road.

If there are tyre ruts in the road the car is very twitchy/sensitive and the movement is felt from the front to the back, so much so that my wife complains that it's making her car sick.

As speed builds above 55mph it gets worse.

I've had the wheel alignment done, and new tyres fitted but the problem is still there.

I don't expect it to be like a modern car but my 66 Hertz is more stable as is my 1973 Mach1

Any suggestion as to what could be causing this would be much appreciated.

Just wondering what the best way is to store Goodyear Blue Streak E70-15 (7.75x15) or any vintage tire to preserve them

I've constantly got a leak from the pan gasket.

I've removed the pan and straightened the ridge along the bolt holes, refitted a cork gasket and torqued the bolts to 15 foot pounds.

The leak continues.

I've don't it 3 times and still leaks.

I welcome suggestions as to what can fix this problem.

I've been a SAAC member since 2010 after buying my White 1966 Hertz while on vacation in the USA and then brought it back to its new home in Australia, and then also added a Highland Green 1968 GT500KR in 2013.


I've notified Howard Pardee and Vinnie Liska of my cars when I got them.

I'm interested in buying the 1966 and the 1968 Registry but before doing so I'd like to know what the registry publication has in it compared to the Annual Shelby American that we get with our SAAC membership.

What a oil is recommended for use in an original 32,000 mile 428??

What oil is recommended for use in a rebuilt engine with 5000 miles?

I bought the lower shift boot for my 4 speed on my KR but I have no idea how it's installed as mine looks to have been cut away at at the floor at some stage  so I don't have a reference point.

Does the lower boot sit over the shift mechanism with linkages removed from their anchor points and then passed through the openings in the boot and then screwing the top part of the boot to the floor?

Thanks in advance.

Ross

When I got my KR the 4 speed shifter had a nail in the lockout pull-up lever to attach the reverse cable lock out.

I replaced it with a roll pin of tempered sprung steel. All was good until today.

Went for a drive in the countryside and stopped for a coffee. When I got back into the car and tried to select reverse the pull up lever had lost the roll pin and the cable was gone down the shaft. My assumption is that pull u the ever compresses the roll pin and it can move out of its rest posting in the lever under the knob.

If i put another roll pin in I'm afraid it may happen again.

If I put a nail back in it is wrong and feels bad between my fingers.

What has everyone else done to solve the problem........roll pin I'm guessing.

Does anyone else have excessive heat inside the car?


Went for a drive today and found there is a  lot of Heat coming into the car,  like the heater is blowing hot air into the cabin area.

The hood seal is fine so nothing getting into the cowl area.

I'm tempted to bypass the heater core to rule out a problem in the heater box or cables shutting down the heat flap from the box.

It is an a/c car.

Anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing it?

I heard an interesting story of 50 special build 1971 Mach 1's with Hemi Heads 429 4 Speeds cars. They were rated at 650bhp

Roumor has it that they were real and had something to do with the real Eleanor 'Gone in 60 seconds' movie

Does anyone have any knowledge of these cars??

I'm looking for trunk light wiring pictures focusing at the sequential light dynamite stick wiring  and the trunk lid light mercury switch on original cars.

Just tidying mine up so your picture will help.

Thanks in advance

I started the topic because it morphed from an earlier one re correct spark plugs and has had me chasing a backfire in my KR.

So in summary:

Engine starts, idles and cruises fine but it backfires when accelerating harder than just cruising.

Car was running fine until i had it stored in a workshop for 3 years slowly getting some work done when it developed a backfire once it was started.

Had the carby rebuilt

Changed points, condenser and coil, set timing, checked number of spark plugs and they're fine no sign of wear or fouling and the problem is still there.

Could be a vacuum leak causing engine to run to lean

Tilt away was fixed by changing the relay but now the relay is working but the tilt away wont tilt back so I'm thinking there's a vacuum problem in the system which could be related back to the backfire.

A couple of guys on the forum have offered some assistance which is much appreciated, thanks Shelbydoug and 1967 eight barrel

So this is the current position, I'm going to chase down a vacuum leak as my next step,

If anyone else has had a similar issue your feedback would be appreciated by me and also to assist for anyone else who may experience the same issue in the future.

Ross

Hi all,

Can someone post pictures of original locations of the following decals

Trunk - Tyre change
         - Shelby silver decal

Rear Licence Plate - Tie Down Decal

Thanks

Ross

My power steering on my GT500KR was perfect when I parked the car 3 years ago but  now its assisted turning right but turning left it feels like there's no assistance at all.

I rebuilt the control valve 6 months before parking the car up for 3 years and everything was fine.

Now I assumed that air must've gotten in somewhere as a result of a low pressure hose leak. When i try to bleed the system by turning left to right with the wheels off the ground all feels good but its leaking from the low pressure hose.

Putting it back on the ground and its still the same...easy turning right but rock hard turning left.

I've got the carby off for a clean and rebuild so I'll sort the leak out once its back on the car and running.

Other than the leaking low pressure hose, does anyone have any ideas as to what the cause may be??

What spark plugs and gap should be used bearing in mind I can only get 98ron fuel in Australia.

Quick question regarding the Dzus spring installation on the locking bracket of the KR Hood Pins.

One of my Dzus springs is loose making the lock down difficult. What is the correct finish on the rivet and what type of rivet is correct?

Pictures will help thanks

I know this was covered in forum 1.0 but since its gone now.......

1. What is the height of the roof line at its maximum point?

2. What is the height of the car from the centre of the front and rear wheels to the top of the wheel arches?