SAAC Forum

Now that my car is running and stopping, I need to install the front clip.  Is there any assembly diagram or schematic showing how to install the 67 Shelby nose, headlight buckets (inboard), grilles and support brackets?  I could likely figure it out but having a guide would be great.  I hear it's a ton of fun to get the fiberglass nose on, but getting all the lights and brackets on and working is where I am now.

I have two nice screw-on style trim rings, but both are PN S7MS-13A537-B, and one has a raised lip, but the other one has had the lip shaved off as seen in the pic. My car came with the smooth type trim, which I have but are in sad shape.  Both have raised lips, one is part number S7MS-13A537 and the other S7MS-13A538, so I assume one is L and the other is R?  One is bent and the other is broken.  I'd like to use the nicer ones but will the lights be angled all funky due to one having the raised lip and the other not?

Finally got it running and stopping.  Still lots to do, but a huge step forward.  So many thanks are due to so many SAAC members for their help with finding the right parts, proper finishes, process guidance, vendor services, and just motivation to keep going after dragging this mess home 22 years ago.  Now it's home, running, and hopefully going to see the streets later this summer after the front clip and rear fiberglass gets done.  No time for paint, carpet or door windows.  Going to rip around in primer like a 70's street machine for a while, no hood and tall stacks.  It was a custom 70's street machine when it was left for dead in about '77-'78, so I figure I owe it at least a year like that before finishing it all "properly". 
Lexan windows came from a drag car for $80, velocity stacks from a lake race boat.  I kinda like the view from the driver seat.

While putting the original sway bar back on GT500 number 683, the end links seem to be too short - when the car is suspended on a 2 post lift with suspension hanging, the sway bar hits the balancer.
Was there a special end link kit for these cars?  Anyone have the end link bolt and spacer measurements?  It's the correct balancer with the chamfered edges.

Putting my 67 GT 500 together with non-stock exhaust (have all correct pieces in storage for later).  Has the 428 with JBA SS tri-Y headers on it.  Planning to run 2.5" pipes with an H or X, stock hanger locations, out the rear valence.  I had a small block car with the old Flowmaster 2 chambers and it was LOUD.  Not shooting for that loud, but want some tone at idle.  Been reading about Magnaflow, and Dynomax.  And favorites out there?

Does anyone have a picture of exactly what bracket (or plate, or mount) that goes between the shifter body and the tail housing for a stock Ford shifter and a stock big block Toploader?  The one I have puts the shifter in a weird position, it may be for a small block?  Better yet, anyone have one to sell?  I hate to install any aftermarket shifter just because I can't find this correct missing piece.

Complete big block Toploader 28 spline, good condition inside, no visible damage to primary gears or brass.
Needs a good cleaning.  Located in Seattle, will not ship.  $1,100

Gotta put this up here, how much I am thankful and appreciative for all of you on this forum, for real.  There is NO Fn WAY I could have brought my car back from the dead without you. My man Dominic C, and Jamie at Karosserie in Wayne, forever in debt to the experts. Those are the two guys I spent time with in person, sweating it out hauling cars and parts from dusty, dark sheds and barns.  The rest of this gang I have yet to meet over a beer... hope to someday close that gap. 

Long shot, but I spotted a center light 67 Shelby parked on the street near Kailua, Oahu back in July of 1984.  Beat up, no stripes or badges, maybe was Nightmist blue originally but pretty worn down and faded and dents everywhere. Had Magstars on it and center grille lights.  Was someone's daily driver back then.  I was 12 but knew it was a special Mustang and made my mom take my picture standing next to it. 
Any info on of it's still alive would be cool, and I'd share my old photo with the current owner if they care to see what it looked like 40 years ago.
Adding picture taken July 1984 Pualei Circle condos near Diamond Head.

I need a tail shaft housing for a top loader from a 390 Mustang or Cougar with the 28 spline output shaft.  Somehow I have a small block tail housing on an otherwise big block trans.  Other than buying a new aluminum one from DK, anyone holding one?

I'm looking for a competent shop or maybe retired individual to assemble my 67 GT500 project in the Seattle area. Car number 683.  It's basically ready for the drivetrain, some wire harness installation, power steering, etc. I have all the subassemblies restored and ready to be bolted together, from the dash cluster to the trans. Engine has been dyno'd, ready to install.  Everything is fresh and have all AMK fasteners to do the job.  Just have no time, a ruined back and now a bum shoulder to boot.  I spoke with Brad's Custom Auto and they are clearly qualified but not available until 2024.  I'm hoping to get this rig running and driving this Summer.  Any recommendations?  Seems nobody good and local wants the work, and I have it all ready to be assembled.  Car is rolling, all suspension is installed. No front clip to get in the way, just need it to run and drive for now.

I'm looking for a competent shop or maybe retired individual to assemble my 67 GT500 project.  It's basically ready for the drivetrain, some wire harness and under dash installation, and steering gear installation. I have all the subassemblies restored and ready to be bolted together, from the dash cluster to the trans. Everything is fresh and have all AMK fasteners to do the job.  Just have no time, a ruined back and now a bum shoulder to boot.  I spoke with Brad's Custom Auto and they are clearly qualified but not available until 2024.  I'm hopi g to get this rig running and driving this Summer.  Any recommendations?

Finally got the heart of my 67 GT500 up and running.  Decided to break it in and tune it on a dyno before squeezing it into the car.  Oddly enough, the dyno was originally Shelby American's then sold to a shop in Seattle, then to the guy who owns and operates Ed's Machine in Mukilteo, WA.  In addition to learning from Ed and watching a pro builder and tuner at work, the experience was even cooler knowing that my 428 was run in and tuned on the same dyno that SA used back in the day.

Hoping for some guidance on the reassembly process here.  I have a flat panel car (683) and need to reassemble the whole car.  For the tail light setup, do I "bench build" the lights onto the fiberglass panel first, and then rivet the assembly to the car, or rivet the panel on first and assemble the lights and boxes in place?  I've seen both methods but want to do this right. Also I am using the screw-on trim rings I have, rather than the smooth tail light rings my car probably came with.

So after determining that my two sets of new aftermarket parts were ill-fitting garbage, I scored an original set of outer shock towers (aka coil spring covers) with rubber stoppers for a mere $25.  Score. They are rust free, and fit perfectly.  Just need to blast them clean and refinish.
So... should they be semi gloss black, natural metal, or what?  Second question, seems like all the Metuchen built '67 cars have the nuts on the inside of the engine compartment.  What about the San Jose cars?  Looks cleaner with the bolt heads on the inside, but what's correct?

I have what I suspect is the original carb linkage from a 63 Galaxie 427.  The bell crank, or main linkage part that goes between the carbs, has no arm for the return spring on the driver side.  The other side is all fine, and the linkage was all just replated and looks great.  There is just no arm for the return spring, only the throttle rod connected to the  firewall bracket.
Question is does anyone repro the correct bell crank for the GT500?

I know, spirited big block is a bit corny.  I need a good street/strip clutch setup for my 67 GT500.  Already installed a roller bearing pedal support, but otherwise using the stock Z-bar and linkage rods, original top loader, bellhousing and shifter.  The engine will be dyno'd next month and expecting numbers knocking on 500 in both HP and torque, so I'm guessing a stock clutch and pressure plate might not be enough?
This is my first FE motor, but I've had good luck running Centerforce diaphragm clutches behind my small blocks.
Thoughts?

I'm running an old SSS cast aluminum COBRA oil pan and need a dipstick and tube.  Should I use the original C7OE-6750-A stick or something else since it's deeper and holds more oil?

Hoping there's someone who has suggestions based on experience here... rather than drop tons of $$$ on the correct Carter fuel pump, water pump, cast crank pulley, radiator, shroud, fan and clutch for my early '67 I want to get it running and driving with new/alternate parts that will function well.  Not real concerned about looking stock, since the missing hood and polished velocity stacks will sort of give it away anyways.  Eventually I will collect all the correct stuff, but not at this time.  So... any suggestions for sourcing decent aftermarket parts like radiators, shrouds, fans, crank pulley, water pump, and also a fuel pump?
Again I do plan to eventually find and install the correct items down the road... but not now.  Need to get this rig running and driving first.  Thanks in advance!

Still need some parts for my Jan 18 built 67 GT500 4 speed no A/c:
crank pulley C1AZ-6A312-C, radiator and shroud, fan clutch, water pump, fuel pump, coil.
Not opposed to using the slightly larger '68-70 radiator/shroud setup if available.
Located in Seattle, WA
John Tufano