SAAC Forum

I've been running Mallory 110 pumps for 20 years in my car. The problem is when they crap-out and they do, you are stranded, as the Carter HV mechanical pump will not pull fuel through the Mallory pump. The SW 240A specs to mount no higher than 24" above the fuel level and Mallory says to mount lower than the fuel tank, so they really do not recommend my set-up.

I like the idea of running the 240A because it was run in the day and I'm trying to stay era correct as reasonably as po$$ible. There is a rebuilder / supplier of
SW 240A's when you Google and they are located in New Hampshire. Owner is Nick Acton and the business is Acton Classic Enterprise. Price is $$$$ but the alternatives are equally $$$! I plan to call Acton Classic today and see what they have and can do. Anyone have any firsthand dealing with them?

I'll keep everyone informed and thanks to all on your input.

Don
gt350bp 

Looks to me like one of the contacts on the pump is broken away and the contact on the switch is not connecting. The Bakelite type material that the pump connection is attached appears to be very brittle and one wire is broken away from the Bakelite connection.

Anyone have a good rebuilt SW 240A suitable for use with pump gas and up to 10% ethanol?

Thanks Bob, for all the help. The goal is to get a working 240A in my car for the trip from Daytona to Pittsburgh for the convention. (Did that drive in 2009 and I think I have one last long trip in me with the replica.) This plus installing my rebuilt buttontop mechanical pump was my upgrades intended for this year.

Don
gt350bp

Bob,

Going to check that today. Will advise, as I understand the switch is obsolete and hard to find. My pump was supposed to be rebuilt years ago and sat on a shelf.

Don
gt350bp

I'd suggest you consider a new modern tach as I found my original tach was lagging when revving. I had Mike at Orlando Mustang install a new tachometer in my gauge cluster when I sent the bezel out to be restored. The new tach works like a charm. One of the best upgrades and I stored my original tach for the next guy.

While the cluster is out, upgrade the flasher boxes and rear taillight bulbs to LED's if you plan to drive the car.

Don
gt350bp

The balancer I used was the Ford Racing M-6316-C351. Make sure you check with your engine builder on the stroker kit balance requirements.

Don
gt350bp

The one picture of the fully degreed balancer was a real deal balancer that I was going to use. The Ford Racing balancer is what I ended up using on my replica, as the fully degreed balancer went on an original car. I painted the Ford Racing balancer black and felt that option was better for my 327 stroker.

The rubber plugs for the aluminum water pump came from a local auto parts store. They are decorative, as the aluminum pump was tapped for plugs and sealed. Did not want to depend on the rubber plugs.

Don
gt350bp

All I'm trying to convey is that Edelbrock advertises a 65 to 67 Hi-Po water pump for the early timing cover. They do not look correct for an R-Model replica, but they work better than the aluminum Ford pumps especially in warm climate.

I live in Central Florida and my replica runs cool, as the extra capacity Aviad oil pan, oil cooler and larger Galaxie radiator with larger radiator opening and front valance all help to minimize the engine heat. If I was going to be doing more open track and racing, I would change back to the Edelbrock water pump. The early timing cover with Ford Racing balancer and Ford aluminum water pump IMO makes a nice combination for a replica.

FYI, my stroker engine was assembled by Scott (pbf777 on this forum) and it runs and look good for my purposes.

Don
gt350bp