SAAC Forum

Just wanted to thank everyone for the input on the KR shocks. I think I'm going with the Gabriel shocks that NPD recommends. They have a rear shock that is longer and HD so I will use those and the recommended fronts. They are out of the rear AMK installation hardware at this time, so that will have to wait. The shocks have fine threads, so I'm not sure if that is appropriate for a late 68 KR? (July 26 th build) Anyone have any experience with the Gabriel shocks and how well they work?

Don
gt350bp

Checked the Gabriel website and found a Classic shock that is 17.67 (extended) length and 10.56 (compressed) length rear shock for a Mustang. Would that be appropriate for a staggered shock KR. They also look like a straight tube. Checking the site for an appropriate front shock that might be able to add the discs to look like an original Autolite.

Don
gt350bp

Thanks for the info! What is the diameter and thickness of the disc below the top bushing? Might punch out some two piece discs to replicate the front shocks. Looks like there are also holes in the disc. What is the size and location. Would anyone be interested in the discs if I decide to have them made?

NPD advertises Gabriel Shock that best replicate the original Autolites. It appears that they are noted as shorter than original fo the rears. I guess that is what Special Ed is referencing. Is there a correct shock to use for the fronts and rears?

If someone is already making the discs for the front shocks, I would rather not reinvent the wheel and will purchase a set.

Thanks you.

Don
gt350bp

Put the recommended #78 jets in the primary metering block as well as changed the power valve to a 5.5. Increased the primary accelerator pump nozzle to a #37. Set timing at 36 degrees total and 13 degrees initial in the mechanical advance MSD Pro Billet distributor. (Green spacer) Can finally pull out of the driveway without upsetting the neighbors! Still have a slight bog and surge just above idle at 25 to 30 mph.

Ordered a #40 accelerator nozzle for the next change.

Thanks for the recommendations and help, as I'm going in the right direction on the changes.

Don
gt350bp

Engine builder got back in contact and confirmed 10.5 compression ratio and suggested 38 degrees on the timing. Initial is at 6 BTC.

Made the carburetor changes yesterday but was unable to take for a test drive. The changes were that I installed a 5.5 power valve and changed primary jets to #78's. Increased primary nozzle to #37 and secondary nozzle to #35. Not sure if the weather is going to cooperate today as we are bracing for some bad thunderstorms moving into Central Florida.

Don
gt350bp

Checked the dyno sheets and it indicates 40 degrees timing. I have not changed the timing from when the engine was built and dyno'd. The change to a #35 nozzle and green accelerator pump cam helped, as the sputter is gone but still have a bog. I'm going to try the #78 primary jet but I'm still wondering if I should change to a 5.5 power valve?

Thank you.

Don
gt350bp

Need help / advise on issue with a 482 custom stroker crate engine tune. I'm still getting a serious bog under load. I'm using a Quick Fuels Q-Series 750 with the following current settings. They are as follows:

Primary jet #74
Secondary jet#84 with jet extensions
Primary power valve #45
Secondary power valve: plugged
Primary nozzle: #31
Secondary nozzle: #31
Accelerator pump: 30 cc primary & secondary
Pump cam: Pink #2 position

Cam is a Comp Cams solid roller
Intake: .691
Exhaust: .702
Lobe separation 112 degrees

Idle set at 950 rpm with 9" vacuum. Vacuum increases to approximately 14" at 2,000 rpm (checked with no load).

When trying to get the car moving, I'm getting a terrible bog and a slight lean backfire, so I know I need to get more initial fuel with the accelerator pump and cam as well as increasing the primary nozzle. I'm think I need to go to the green cam #2 position and increase to a #35 primary nozzle. My question is do I need to change the power valve also or? I'm lost on how to best size the power valve. The idle vacuum seems like the #45 is OK, but I don't know if I should change to a #55 or #65.

The engine dyno #'s are very good, but it was dyno'd from 4,600 rpm to 6,600 rpm, so no info on low end.

Any help or advise is greatly appreciate. The neighbor are starting to get angry with the holeshots to get the car moving.

Thank you.

Don
gt350bp 
 

Probably 002 with the non-operable side windows. It also had a L.H. lower radiator hose location that required a pipe to work with the R.H water pump!

Don
gt350bp