SAAC Forum

Hi - I don't know I will ask him. Also, this mechanic (with 45 years of experience and he seems to know his stuff and came highly recommended) is insisting on NOT using a head gasket because he insists they will inevitably leak and is having the heads machined to insure a tight fit. Has anyone heard of this?

Sorry I should have been more clear. That build list is what was PREVIOUSLY done, about 1,000 miles and 15 years ago. I'm told the cam number on that build list is not the current one by that number from sealed power (which is for a 460), but a number from a previous TRW catalogue which was from the time of the rebuild that included it and the other parts and processes listed. What I am asking now is what top end rebuild parts or kits should I use (now that the heads are taken out) to make the most durable engine going forward? I'm told by the mechanic, and I believe him, that the lower end is fine and cylinders look great with no scoring. Given that one of the existing push rods bent and exhaust valves is faulty, they want to just replace these and put it back together. However, given that the motor sat so long, would you suggest replacing everything else on the top end? And if so what parts? Thanks

Hi guys,
Had a miss in #2 cylinder that turned out to be a bent rod and exhaust valve issue so the shop pulled the heads and they are off to a machine shop. Because I hope to only have the shop do this once, we may consider just having the whole top end rebuilt. What advice would you offer for top end rebuild components? Is there a kit that comes highly recommended with all parts necessary? Here is what's in the build now. Should I leave these in or have some parts changed out? Want this puppy to last for the long-haul...

Components:

V6 5003 Guides
SB 2125-2 Int Seat
603-16 Comp Locks
CS1086R Cam
HT 900 Lifters
R x R Cam Bearings
E261Kt3C Rings
CB760P STD Rods
MS863P STD Mains
F-33 Cam Bearings
354Pt30 Pistonds

Machine Steps:

Bore and Tork Plate Hone 30 Over
Mill Heads
Mill Exhaust Manifold

Any ideas on % over stock HP this rebuilt may generate? Any other insights?
Thank you.

Thanks to all for the helpful advice! Well... one thing led to another and the shop ended up pulling the top end for a reubuild. Any advice on what top-end rebuild kit/parts to use? The cylinders and pistons look good, but going to have the top end redone just to be sure everything's tight when putting it back together! Thank you!

Hi guys need your advice. Just bought a 68 Shelby gt500 with a 428 police interceptor engine that was rebuilt less than 1000 miles ago but about 18 years ago. Took the car into the shop and they could not get it to run right so they checked for compression and number two cylinder was low (only about 40 psi). The shop recommended taking off the heads and checking for a burnt exhaust valve. Attached is the build list that was done when the engine was rebuilt. Any ideas? Should I just have the whole top end rebuilt in fear that another Exhaust valve will blow? Maybe a cam issue? Your input is greatly appreciated. Want to do this right the first time. Thanks. See image of rebuild list.

Any recommendations for a stock-appearing and properly fitting radiator for a 428 police interceptor 4-speed with air-conditioning (1968)?

Thank you I was just confused by the cam number but you have clarified it for me :-) thanks!

Hi all,
Can anyone offer some insight on the rebuild for my '68 GT500? The rebuild was done in 2001 and included the following components/steps:

Components:

V6 5003 Guides
SB 2125-2 Int Seat
603-16 Comp Locks
CS1086R Cam
HT 900 Lifters
R x R Cam Bearings
E261Kt3C Rings
CB760P STD Rods
MS863P STD Mains
F-33 Cam Bearings
354Pt30 Pistonds

Machine Steps:

Bore and Tork Plate Hone 30 Over
Mill Heads
Mill Exhaust Manifold

Any ideas on % over stock HP this rebuilt may generate? Any other insights?
Thank you.

Thanks guys!

Hi guys - I'm looking to replace my inoperable retractable shoulder belt (drivers side) that came stock on my 1968 Gt500 convertible. I can't seem to find one? Any ideas? Thank you!

Got it! So helpful to know. Thank you guys!

Hi just a technical question for those of you who know about the 428PI engines. I am the new owner of the 1968 Shelby GT500 that has a rebuilt engine that was done 30 over and most parts look like a standard rebuild but it has this cam which the manufacturer's website says is for a 429 or 460 engine. Is it ok to have this cam put in a 428 PI dated 1968?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SEPCS1086R
Thanks

Thanks! You guys are SO incredibly helpful! I will be taking these steps soon! Thanks again.

Hi all, I've asked an expert on this (waiting to hear back) but I would love to get input from the forum too! My 1968 Gt500 has a difficult time starting because the tilt-away steering works only about half the time. When it doesn't work, pulling the plunger where the cable is connected on the steering column seems to do the trick. Two questions: 1-What are the most typical solutions to this problem (so I don't have to pay to have the whole system torn apart)? Second, because it's going into the repair shop shortly and they will need to be able to start/stop the car regularly without fussing with it, how can it be bypassed most easily? A jumper cable somewhere?

Your guide here has been most helpful! http://www.thecoralsnake.com/Tilt

Thanks in advance!

Thanks to everyone! Very helpful. Also, the original (4-leaf) leaf springs are sagging. Nearly straight. Should I take them in to be Re-Arc'd or just buy new ones from Eaton or similar. Anyone know the correct part to buy from CJ or similar? Same with front springs. Much help appreciated!