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Messages - Drew Pojedinec

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1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: Holley atmospheric Vent "button"
« on: August 30, 2021, 11:37:37 AM »
     I bought a package of ten exact reproductions off of epay. I don't have a link as it was months ago when I bought them. The orange parts in kits are for accelerator pump "one way valves" on specific float bowls.

Mile Bolduc sells them on ebay. I buy a handful every once in awhile.

Parts For Sale / Re: carb
« on: August 28, 2021, 01:54:22 PM »
If Trackrat passes, Iíll buy it.

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: 67 GT 350 Rattle on Light Acceleration
« on: August 26, 2021, 11:18:22 AM »
Alternate takeÖ.
Make sure distributor springs arenít too light.
Iíve heard detonation that sounds like a body rattle.

Good luck

Appeals / Re: Zink Dichromate
« on: August 25, 2021, 01:46:42 PM »
If someone wants to learn how, Iím happy to share info.  Even better, I have a FB group I started called ďHobby Zinc Plating and Metal Finishing.Ē
900 people strong, lot of good info for beginners.

Appeals / Re: Zink Dichromate
« on: August 25, 2021, 01:45:07 PM »
Actually if you look at his Facebook page, Drew is zinc dicromate plating, but only for those Holley parts.

Then again, by the time he gets back from Holland, he's going to be years behind on the Holley's already, so don't even ask! ;)

I used to try to help folks out by doing small batch plating. Just too busy honestly.
Left home July05, left Rotterdam July21, arrived at jobsite in south atlantic August12, will be here till end of October.  Have 125 carb requests, so unless you want to show up and do the plating yourself, I doubt I could get to it.


1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: GT 500KR Fuel pressure
« on: August 12, 2021, 04:45:35 AM »
I run expensive ($60) liquid filled gauges. They have a vent you can lift to relieve pressure.
Pretty much the only way to get a perfect reading at temp.

I think AED brand gauge, but many industrial gauges work fine.

1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: 3259 Carburetor Problems
« on: August 10, 2021, 01:05:41 PM »
Common the check needle get stuck as mentioned above.
Will create the exact symptom.

I have to drop some oil on the needle during assembly or the cleaned parts like to flash rust and get stuck.

-Remove carb
-remove pump nozzle
-try to use a small pointy object like a scribe or small screwdriver to wiggle check needle back and forth.
-try to push fuel through (use care as needle can shoot out)
-spray carb cleaner in nozzle hole, try again to dislodge
-if that doesnít work, remove bowl and metering block. Use air to dislodge
-if that doesnít work, pack grease into pump channel and force a pin gauge or back of a drill into hole
-if that doesnít work, drill check needle, if bit is sharp it should spin out.

The last two options really stink btw.

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Autolite 4100
« on: August 07, 2021, 05:04:41 AM »
Iím a little late to respond hereÖ

Green loctite #290 is a wicking loctite that sets up anerobically. It works well in a situation where you have everything already installed. (Brazing is ideal as Mr Dan suggests)

Wanted to Buy / Re: C6 Cooling Line Fitting
« on: August 04, 2021, 06:47:33 AM »
Thanks Randy!

Drew, I donít think they are NpT threadsÖ.

The dozen or so c6s Iíve rebuilt were npt. Maybe Shelby cars used something different?
My Galaxie and F100 both run full roller c6s I built. Both run AN hose, I used 1/8npt x -6 with no issue.

Check the one you get from Randy, curious about it.

Wanted to Buy / Re: C6 Cooling Line Fitting
« on: August 04, 2021, 05:42:31 AM »
Ok, so I got bored offshore and looked through a few supplier catalogs for hydraulics.

Cheapest and easiest for this assuming 1/8npt to 5/16 tubing:

Straight fitting:


Wanted to Buy / Re: C6 Cooling Line Fitting
« on: July 30, 2021, 12:54:51 PM »
Never seen an o ring seal, should be 1/8npt

Another thought.
If running vac advanceÖ
At your idle speed, ported vac should be in action. Assure vac advance arm is still connected. I have seen E clip fall off with resulting arm getting disconnected. This could drop your idle speed and make it run badly, could also explain intake pop.
Recheck initial timing

With engine idling, climb on top of engine and look into venturi.
Dripping from boosters?
Top of all four t slots dry?
Shut off engine and open bowl sight plugs.

If any of the above are wet, reset float level or check needle/seat o ring.
O ring is 008 size.

If all seems good, remove carburetor. Keep if level so there is no fuel spillage.
Hold it up and observe bottom.  Any leakage?  Inspect PV signal hole, dry?
You can also draw vac on signal hole, should be dry and there should be no fuel in there at all.
PVs  themselves rarely leak, but metering block gaskets and PV gaskets often do.

Any other symptoms?

The Lounge / Re: need help to contact Drew Pojedinec
« on: July 25, 2021, 05:14:11 AM »
Private msg here works well.
Or email me AirFuelSpark78 at gmail

We have a sat wifi since left the states in November.
Currently off the coast of Portugal.

Anyway, Ray contacted me and Iíll get back to carbs when I get home.  Currently looks like mid October before I get back.
Hopefully these long 100+ day trips are almost over, we are trying to get on a 60/60 rotation, but I have to take a military cargo plane to and from work.

Parts For Sale / Re: Shelby carburetors
« on: July 04, 2021, 04:38:42 PM »
Ok. Will tag it for you.

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