SAAC Forum

"In addition, it wasn't mentioned, BUT ANYWHERE you use stainless steel bolts or nuts, you virtually have to use anti-seize on them. Those things just chafe the threads for no reason and strip out easily if you don't."

I can verify that Stainless bolts with Stainless nuts are a real pain and you should use good anti-seize (and still cross your fingers).  There is a theory running around that if you use different grades of Stainless bolts vs nuts that you will have better luck, but I do not know if this is true or an Old Mechanics tale.

Thanks,  that what I expected,  but with Shelby's you never know.

I have recently seen two different 68 KR's that did not have a snorkel for the air cleaner and seemed to have a block off plat at the area where it would have attached..  Was this a factory option or a dealer option?  Any information is much appreciated.

If we are just going to toss random information out there - I also have the original build sheet and a Marti report

I am not assuming - I have had the car since 1979 and know the history of the car back to 1973.

I assume that you know that the cars where not worth much between 1971 and 1973, and that making a full fledged clone at that time (matching numbers and all) would have cost a LOT more than the car would be worth for many more years.

Not that important - more of a curiosity thing.  I just figured if an easy answer existed ( I should know better with a Shelby) that would be one more thing that I knew about the car.  By the way - The hood does have primer under the blue paint (just like all the other fiberglass parts on the car).

I am just trying to make some "educated" guesses about the history of my car from around 1971 to 1973.
If there is no way to tell just by looking at the paint then the origin of the hood will remain a part that I can not figure out (along with several other parts). Note:  I am pretty sure it is not the factory hood, but I did not want to influence any answers with "too much" information.

So - Any guesses why someone would change the hood out to drag race it?
I think it was drag raced based on the following:
Power steering completely removed.
Tow bar Brackets on frame
Under Hood A/C completely removed
Gears changed to 3:91
Heads ported and polished

I have attached the only picture of the hood that I currently have access to.
I was just curious if there is any way from looking at the paint job to tell if it was done at the factory.
I assume that an OEM hood (Pre 1973) would have come primed only.

Any thoughts on if this is a factory painted hood would be greatly appreciated.

Is there a way to tell if a 68 fiberglass hood was painted at the factory?
I am trying to make an educated guess if the hood on my car is factory original or an early replacement (would have been replaced before 1973)
Many Thanks in advance for any input

Quote from: Jack4159 on November 11, 2020, 08:04:48 AM

Quote from: 68krrrr on November 10, 2020, 10:06:11 PM
Very cool & good luck where did you find your build sheets & are you gonna keep the trailer hitch 

Build sheet was under the dash wrapped to the main wiring harness with black tape, which thankfully had no "stick" left in it. Came apart no problem but very fragile.
Yeah the towbar is not making a comeback. The second owner had the car 40 years and the KR was his driver which he used to tow his racer, a GT350.

Same place mine was

Many Thanks guys.

If this is not the correct place for this please let me know.
I have a 1968 GT500KR that has been sitting since about 1980, the car is mostly apart and I have most of the parts, I am looking for a shop in or near Dallas or Houston, TX to rebuild my car (I will travel a little further for a good shop).  Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
I am not looking for concours, this car will be driven

Nolan Johnson
Debiguy7@gmail.com