SAAC Forum

I like the car but have a feeling even if the price doesn't get overly crazy the bidder's premium is going to put a nail in the coffin. I'd also feel better if this was a large Mecum type auction and not a strip mall auction that sells baseball cards one week and then things like this. Regardless of the fee's and short storage time limit, it's really the transfer of title and right paperwork required for some states that makes buying something for a lot of money from a place like this scary. BJ, Mecum, etc. have their faults but for the most part seem to do due diligence on paperwork and transfer things in good order. I'm sure there are a few but overall, not many states will take a vintage title not in the seller's name to register it.  Maybe a good car for a person in AZ to buy- maybe less issues that way.

I looked again over the week while I await my new repro Z-Bar from VA Mustang. Based on the comments, I do see a stop so the pedal doesn't come up beyond a certain point but don't remember a stop being on the assembly to keep it from going down too far? The functionality of the clutch itself seemed fine just the pedal overextending the main return spring was the issue. The sleeves the pedal shafts go through are fine no extra play. The clutch in there was a kit that included the throw-out bearing and it's a new Zoom one and a diaphragm type.  I'll post an update when I get the new z-bar in - in a way I'm hoping mine was bent and this will solve it 

Thanks for the feedback. I was able to confirm over the weekend that I did have power to one of the posts and when I put a jumper between the two the horn goes off. I took apart the parts in the wheel and cleaned it up but still no go. I will have to figure out how to test the slip ring continuity. I see they sell rebuild kits so I may order one just in case but based on the feedback and what I'm seeing so far it does in fact seem like a wheel issue. Thanks as always for the insight. 

Clutch releases fine, feels like my other mustang. The pedal going all the way down to the floor and feeling like it may not come back up because of how far back the pedal goes is different than my other car- scary. Doesn't seem like I can extend out the rod that goes from the lower bar lever to the clutch fork much more or I'd see if that limited the pedal travel.

On the clutch pedal support there is a bracket that bolts on and extends over the side to hook the pedal spring to. Mine was bolted on wrong so I put it back to the stock look and put on a new spring. I also put new z-bar bushings in etc.  When I push the clutch pedal all the way down it almost seems like its hyperextending the spring and is pulling the pedal towards the firewall- like it doesn't want to pop back up. I just ordered a repro z-bar from VA mustang because I figured maybe my original z-bar was bent and allowing the pedal to go too far.  Any idea's why the pedal is going so far? On my other mustang the pedal doesn't go all the way to the floor and doesn't feel like it's getting hyper extended.  I don't want to risk having my pedal get stuck at the floor and figured I'd get some ideas here as I wait for the new z-bar. Maybe the new z-bar will fix it?

If it matters as part of the puzzle, it has a new clutch in the car and the adjustor from the z-bar to the clutch fork is extended out pretty far to hold itself into the clutch fork depression. (FYI- when I say hyperextends the pedal another way to explain it is if you ever have a clutch pedal assembly OUT of a car and push the clutch pedal down you can push the pedal to a point where the rotation is at a point where the spring is pulling it back versus forward as intended.)

I have a 66 and it came with some parts loose/off the car including the horns. I tested the horns and put them on and installed a new engine compartment harness.  I took the steering wheel off and if I put a jumper lead from one horn stud on the turn switch to the other and the horn will go off. I thought I was good to go but when I put the wheel back on no horn. I then tried a standard mustang wheel and still no horn. Not sure what to check now- any ideas?

"15% buyers commission and almost seems like you are agreeing to them doing the shipping- maybe just their generic wording."
I had someone look at it and confirm. 15% is the fee and must be gone within 7 days because they don't have the space to store (do lots of regular auctions and need the space).

Here is what I was told for the good, lots of original body and mechanical parts and they are adding better rims/tires to make it a roller (removing the flats on wagon wheels). For the bad much of the exterior panels are damaged from rust and the interior from heat. Dr fender has rust/hole at the bottom and door has rust coming from the inside through the outside. Both quarters have rust in the inner wheel well bottom areas but the drivers side is worse. The pass side door also has rust coming through the door in the corner. Pass front fender not bad. The engine compartment aprons have been patched on the top he said it looked like Bondo, radiator support was cut ("hacked"). At least one inner frame rail has a tear.   For the interior the wheel and gauges looked real, a good section of the wood on the back was missing from the wheel, the seats were bad but maybe the special comfort weave centers could be saved. Was told its sun baked but actually pretty complete and "cool to look at".  I just figured I'd share but don't assume what I conveyed is correct- it was secondhand info and I'm no expert!

I was going to replace my late 66's idler arm. I see some sites have a standard arm assembly while others have the 66 Shelby arm as a quick steering arm. Did all 66's have the quick steering as delivered by Shelby? Just want to make sure I order the right part.

If you search YouTube for 1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302- Unrestored Survivor a poster called Callaway Classics posted a nice video of a green undercarriage.

I just watched the video and remembered seeing it years earlier. I can't believe how bad it's become since then. The amount of new rust on the exterior is sad considering the fact the owner knew what he had and must have stored it outside and under a tarp to get so much under paint rust- actually looked cool 10yrs ago! A few more years left like that in a damp environment and there would be big holes everywhere so at least he's moving it onto someone who will hopefully store it better and do something with it.

Great Info- thanks. It's interesting- I looked at the heh-bx mentioned on Dave Kee's chart and it says 65-66 but doesn't mention 1967 under that and more interestingly doesn't list any 67 hipo mustang trans tag ID- maybe they were all HEH-BX and he missed it in his chart.

I may go with a buddy to look at a 67 GT350 in a few weeks for an initial look before he invests in a real inspection. I'm more familiar with GT500's so figured I'd ask for some info here:
1) I assume they came with toploaders- what's the ID on the tag (RUG...?).
2) Did they have SPEC rears and 31 spline axles?
3) Will the heads be cast with ""1967" versus 1966 on them (assuming they still have the two dots above the 289 and the 19/20 number on the ends)
Thanks in advance for the education.

I am looking for a basic stock standard 1970 mustang steering wheel in original blue color (yes not so pretty blue lol). Doesn't have to be perfect but in good driver shape.  I don't see anyone with reproductions in anything other than black and don't think painting a wheel will hold up. If you have something PM me. Thanks.

Based on this picture and what you are saying it looks like a locker- you can see straight through. I learn something new every day- thanks for all the pointers.

more pics