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Messages - Bossssssss

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1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: question for the experts
« on: February 08, 2021, 08:43:53 AM »
Thanks Guys. Mine must be a repro as my back cover does not have the text in the lower right corner (on the back cover) and my warranty page does not have that white sticker/overlay on it.

It came out of a 68 350 4 speed car I owned many years ago. I forgot all about it until I did some cleaning this past weekend and found it in a drawer.

Wish it was an original but no such luck LOL.

Thanks again and you guys are the best!

1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / question for the experts
« on: February 07, 2021, 10:56:24 AM »
I have a 68 Shelby owners manual and was wondering how to tell an original from a reproduction.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks in Advance.


I was saving this wheel for many years waiting for a 69 to mount it on. I don't see that in the cards so I am selling the steering wheel.

This ORIGINAL FORD steering wheel would be perfect in a survivor car. Its EXTEREMELY nice. Has Mustang pad.

A few minor issues but they are on the back and very hard to see and would not visible when mounted on car, but still a very very nice steering wheel that surpasses most that I have seen mounted on cars.  It would take year or pot luck to find a nicer original steering wheel.

Rim blow switch tested with ohm meter (works fine).

Pictures available. Please PM me your email address and I will respond.

1600 free shipping (REVISED PRICE) in the Continental USA.

Thank you for the space.

1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: September 23, 2020, 03:29:01 PM »
I would remove as much material as needed to mount the clips. IIRC I drilled my holes through the screw holes on the cover and then ground away the 'glass panel as needed so the clips when installed were aligned with the holes. Gary

Thank you Gary. That sounds like a great approach. I am going to implement the same procedure.

thanks again,

1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: September 22, 2020, 04:43:17 PM »
Thanks Peter and Gary. So if I read you correctly, I would need to install the U-shaped clip around the cut I just made such that aligns with each of the 4 (four) side holes I drilled into the side panels for mounting the cover.  Is this correct?

Also, what about the one hole on the bottom/base of the side cover that goes horizontally (down)? I assume the same thing?  When I cut my panels I took off minimal material and kept fitting them as I went. I did not/don't have a template so I am not sure how close I am to the original cuts that the factory did. What I do know is I probably have more material than they did as mine are a very tight fit right now and require a bit of finagling to get them installed and or removed. I think the bottom hole would require me to remove more material toward the inside of the car (in order to get a u-shaped clip installed).

thanks again for any insight.

1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: September 22, 2020, 01:18:01 PM »
Thank you Peter. I also looked at Marcus Anghel's interior panel ID document and in it he shows a picture in the lower right of a 69 interior panel with the cover attached:

It appears the the one screw/screw hole (on the right/forward of cover and top, ie top right in picture) that is normally used for attaching the panel on non-Shelby's is also used to secure the cover to the panel and the panel to the car. The other fasterners appear to be screws but those would not have holes drilled into the car (so yes I assume some sort of clip on the back side to hold the screw in while securing the cover to the panel). I will check around on AMK's site.

Thank you again for your help!

1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / question for the experts
« on: September 22, 2020, 12:42:16 PM »
Hi Gents,
I am installing an original '69 (fastback) Shelby roll bar in my '70 Boss 302.

What fasteners are used to attach the fiberglass covers to the rear fiberglass interior panels?  Do they sell whatever is used  - need to get this project buttoned up.



Hey JD - thanks for all your help. Yes that last item you posted from NPD will do the trick for me. Going to place an order for the two fitting and steel line from them. You Rock and Thanks again!

verified the line at NPD is correct for a 67 350

Its Classic Tube part number MUO1002-SC

Link to Classic Tube:

Link to same part number sold by NPD:

So I just need the one fitting with the W on it. I don't necessarily need to have the W on it, but I would like to find that part so it looks reasonable correct and most important (to me) is that it (meaning the car) is working properly.

Thanks JD. By the way, my car is a 4 speed (forgot to mention that) as I think the connection/routing may be different between a manual trans vs automatic trans.

If you find those links that would be great.
thanks again!

Hey Gents - need to ask you another technical question. This time on the vacuum line that runs between the power brake booster and (I believe) to the back of the (Cobra) intake manifold.

I need to know what is correct and what the vacuum line consists of.

On one end, I know there is a rubber line that connects to the check valve on the booster, but what does the other end of the rubber line connect to?

Does the rubber hose connect directly to a fitting that is screwed into the Cobra intake? or does it connect to a steel tube which then is supposed to connect (somehow) to the Cobra intake?  I pasted a link below of the tube in question (which is for a 67-68 small block Mustang), but I assume this is not needed on a Shelby due to the alum Cobra intake?  A pic would be worth a thousand words.

Thanks in Advance!


1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: May 06, 2020, 11:29:39 AM »
You guys are the best. Thanks for all your help and I do appreciate all your input and time to respond!

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: May 06, 2020, 09:43:09 AM »
Thanks Doug - I will do some research on 10" pressure plate ratings (I do realize the springs are what makes of the pressure and not the diameter, but just was thinking since a 10" was used in the regular 289 that it would not need to have a higher pressure rating as a hipo one which may be larger, but not sure). Thanks again for your help.

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