SAAC Forum

Is the original SW sender for the oil pressure gauge special? Can another SW sender be substituted for it?

Has anyone here used these? It looks like a repackaged Standard part?

What does this date translate to? How can 0 be a month?

This is a set of 16 AFR #6409, 3/8" screw in rocker arm studs. They are brand new. Ship anywhere in the US for $5.95 USPS flat rate box.

These are a +.250" length so you can use them with roller rocker arms.

$35 plus shipping.

Does the 289-302 in the 67-8 GT350 sit higher then in the 65-66?

There seems to be a couple of inches of clearance between the Monte Carlo bar and the distributor cap on the early cars. I have a Monte Carlo bar on my 68 GT350 and it sits with zero clearance to the cap?

what is the right one? Does it use the same as the GT350?

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1966-mclaren-m1b-2/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2019-11-22

For those of you who don't understand what fuel reversion is on independent runner manifolds is, watch this video of the Mclaren on the track. Notice that when the car is under accelleration there are "puffs of 'smoke'" coming out of the stacks.

Those puffs are raw atomized unburned fuel being pushed back out of the carb throats. That's caused by camshaft timing.

You will also notice that the plume is just over the top of the velocity stacks. Those are stock height stacks and are only about 2-3/4" tall.

IF you do any research on the PanteraGp4 cars, you will find that they all used Weber 48ida's on a Detomaso IR manifold. When you see the actual pictures of those cars you will see that they have doubled the height of the stacks to 5 to 6 inches high. Besides changing the torque curve of the engine a bit, it also keeps that fuel plume in the stacks.

There aren't a lot of cars that can run with 5 inch stacks.

Frankly, I seem to think that I remember that car being run with 5" tall stacks at some point back in the day? Maybe I'm confusing that with another car?

As the title implies, I need a backplate for the instrument cluster for use with the tach.
I haven't seen a reproduction for the tach version yet. Just the standard version. A repro would be fine though or even info on which vendors have them? So far I find it just a waste of time to call most.
It's just an Easter Egg hunt and I just keep finding goose droppings so far?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293312032695

There are only 13 push rods in this set. They are Comp Cams Magnum Push rods #7640. One piece chrome molly with formed round ends,  .080" wall tubing with oil hole. 7.500" long.

Hardened for use with guide plates.

They are new but out of the box. They list new for $168 per set of 16, but generally retail for about $115 for a full set of 16.

So new that breaks down to $7.18 each. These are $5.77 each. There are only 13 here in this set.

Sold as is. No refunds. Ask any questions now.

Flat rate USPS Priority mail shipping in the US. More for international.

I was just working on my cluster and it never occured to me (that I recall) that the mounting posts and the sensor connections to the gauges are the same (fuel & temp). Can someone explain to me how that design works without grounding those gauges out?

I have a very decent 289hp crank counterweight. This is a Ford original. No part number, just stamped FRONT with a logo. $150. PM me.

Well just got notification that the "Supersnake steering wheel" on ebay price has been reduced by 500 to $3850. Hurry! You won't get a cheaper price on getting screwed then this!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/67-Shelby-GT500-Steering-Wheel-same-as-placed-on-1967-SHELBY-GT500-SUPER-SNAKE/123930776755?hash=item1cdad994b3:g:4XcAAOSweJxdmi-K


I didn't realize that there "is another" for $6,000?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shelby-67-GT350-GT500-Steering-Wheel-EFFPI-ORIGINAL-1967-NOS-NEW/123936828861?hash=item1cdb35edbd:g:vQoAAOSwbmVdoSOv

Interestingly enough, the more expensive one costs $30 more, $150, to ship then the less expensive one, $120. So the cheaper one must be a lot lighter too? Amazing! What a deal?

I just can't personally handle another wonderful screwing this week. There's only so much a guy can take. So someone else is going to have to take advantage of the deal, not me. Bummer.
In addition, I got so excited that I dropped my computer and broke my keyboard. HOW can you people resist? 

Ain't this a wonderful world?

https://www.newsday.com/sports/motor-racing/jay-leno-matt-damon-ford-v-ferrari-1.37324145?fbclid=IwAR3KRwp2CkPHrt8CYspYXR7dU6rV1GZO2g2HCFGBfvh4OyAGECXOIZrbbek

I've got a '60s vintage Lakewood FE "scatershield" bellhouse to trade. It's  in decent shape. I'm looking for a 7E casting date.

PM me if interested.

What's the right short (front) hood bumper for a '68? Is it the same as a '67? Got a good picture?

Does anyone sell the radiator support to hood weather stripping by the foot? All I can find is precut pieces?

I apparently made a mistake in judgement by lubricating my hood hinges?

Now the hood sticks up in the back and won't go all the way down.

The joints are nice and tight on the hinges and the little lube put on them makes them smooth as silk.

I'm thinking that this is a spring issue like they are regular Mustang hinge springs? How do I tell the low tension springs from the standard Mustang spring? 

Are there other issues that cause this besides the spring?

I need to change my cracked windshield out and want to reuse the inspection and registration stickers.
Glass shops remove these things all the time intact and I'm being stubborn and want to learn how to do this myself.

I Googled this yesterday and found that I can't connect to any of the links and getting the message that, "receiving this information is illegal". I had to wait until this morning since I was laughing so hard everytime I'd think about it.

Can anyone share some insight on how to get these stickers safely off intact...without Big Brother raiding my place overnight and arresting me?

On the back of the rear seat panels and under the infamous Charcoal Black Metallic, is a yellow substance.

I initially presumed that it was a primer sealer to enable use of the infamous top coat. I'm not sure though? Is this a primer or the color of the resin in the fiberglass?

I'm trying to figure out what and how I should strip off the "black". It's on really good and maybe just spray over it?

To me they look the same? Is there a difference?