SAAC Forum

I took a set of used long tube 67-69 ish 428 Mustang headers in a trade.

1-3/4" primaries. 3" 3 bolt collectors.


I thought that they were Hookers but they are only marked R 522  1 and L 522 1. Left and right.

I did the Google search routine but I can't find any cross references. They happen to fit rather well though.

Does the part number sound familiar to any of you?



I'm suspecting that they may be a set of Gratiot Auto Supplies, Comp Plus headers? Those have a distinctive shape around the clutch mechanisms I haven't seen on other manufacturers but their listings are gone long before personal computers even appeared.

Is there supposed to be a heat shield for the starter or is it supposed to get cooked like right up against the exhaust manifolds?

I've got an early production '69 B'9 XE 144555 alternator bracket that is looking for a new home.

It is in nice shape.

I'm finding it difficult to put a value on it as Ebay seems to be the only references  that show up.

I'll put a price on it of $325. I'll consider offers. I realize that this is a very small market but it is quite apparent already that it isn't your run of the mill $30 item? 

You can PM me here if interested.

Should the date code on the '67 GT500 carburetors match the build dates on the engine?

Are these discontinued?

Really nice original Ford installation Holley, List 1848-1F. Ford part number CC0AZ 9510 A, carb with period patina and some original mint luster,
Date code 381. It is a 450cfm rated carb.
It is complete and just recently disassembled, cleaned, new gaskets installed and reassembled.
This carb does have many original Ford applications but is also a recommended primary carb for a Ford 289 dual 4v Holley installation.
It is complete and missing no parts.
It can be installed, adjusted on a running engine and take it for a drive.
Buyer pays actual calculated shipping

$350

I think this orange looks very much like the '68 Shelby color? Possibly one of the special oranges?

What do you think?

I have a set of good used Ford 428 connecting rods which I am not going to use. 7 of them are marked C6AE and 1 C7AE.

Rod bolts are good. Beams are polished.

$275 or make me a reasonable offer. Paypal and shipping is on you or send me a shipping label.

PM me if interested. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304236399741?hash=item46d5e70c7d:g:ht4AAOSwIW5his-f

I have no comment. I'm speechless. Maybe you can? 

What is the original application listing of Ford and was it originally a dual point/dual vacuum?

I have it as a 72/73 351c R code Cobra Jet. Is that wrong?

To open the discussion I have these pictures to post.

What they are pictures of are a 2x4 Holley system installed on my original block 347.

The intake in these pictures is the C60A "Trans Am" intake.

This is my '68 GT350-01107.


Hopefully this post will tend to remove confusion already installed in discussions on this forum?
A procedure that this forum is infamous for already. I apologize for adding to that confusion and this is about the best I can do to clarify.



There is some discussion about what is the "correct" air cleaner base plate to use. On my car none of the existing "factory" base plates would fit without serious interference to the firewall, the export brace and the hood base.

I can only speak of my car and presume that it is typical of '68 Shelbys and then likely '67s Shelbys as well?


There have been some comments that those base plates with this induction system fit a '65 and '66 GT350 without issue.
The only explanation that works there is that the Generation 2 Mustangs had the engine moved back relative to the Generation 1? I was not aware that the chassis of the 65-6 and the '68 do not have the same engine set backs.



The air cleaner base that I used relocated the carbs as far back as they could go and without running out and measuring, that is about 1-3/4", the distance of the centerlines on those dog leg top mounting studs. That's a big difference in engine locations in my view, but it is what it is.

If you look at my pictures, you can clearly see the rear most carb bowl under the export brace.
IF I attempt to use the '67 GT500 air cleaner base plate, the rear most portion of the air cleaner locates beyond the cowl, well past the fire wall. As it is now, the rear of the fuel bowl is about 3/4" to 1" from the firewall. This is a very tight fit.

As it is located now, the air cleaner JUST clears the inside of the hood brace structure.



For me the solution was fairly simple. That solution was to make my own base plate. It so happens that Branda sells a blank oval air cleaner plate that is easily modifiable to relocate the air clear top and filter forward for adequate clearance.

In addition to the special base plate MY set up requires those kinky 90° dog legged mounting studs. I'M SURE that they don't exist in anyone's special hardware catalogs so save your time and don't try to find them. You have to make them. 


I should also mention/acknowledge that 1" air cleaner spacers were necessary not only to clear the distributor cap, the Monte Carlo bar but also the export brace.


These pictures should give you a pretty good idea of what is going on and I suppose the complete answer to the question of what air cleaner base plate to use depends on the "chassis" it is going into? 

I'm looking for 2 S8MS-9510-C main carb bodies. I don't need anything else with them.
Matching dates would be nice but not mandatory.

Stock. No modifications.

What have you got? PM me here.

I had (past tense) a Ford T&C (truck and chassis div) "toploader" that was a 24", big input, small output, close ratio transmission.

I never saw that combination of big and small before that.

It came to be known by me that combination WAS used in the 427 Cobras.

Is that the ONLY application it was used for? I kind of doubt that but can't conceive of what the other or original application would have been for?

Anybody know?

I was out walking my dog and ran across this guy at Holloween. The groundskeeper was pissed because he wasn't cleaning up after his horse.

I have the original horns for my '68 but neither work. Is it worth having them repaired/rebuilt, and who does that?

Anyone have some pictures?

The casting ID on a 69 Boss 302 is C8FE.

Is this the same block that is run in the '40s running the Boss 302?

Are they the same castings?

Is there a difference between it and the C7FE block?

I just bought a reproduction primary wire off of ebay for a Boss 302 because I liked the red molded coil end and the AUTOLITE insulator boot.

The wire insulation is a gloss black. Is that how they came?

I thought those wires were all a dull semi-gloss or were they gloss new and just dulled down in use?

It's something that I never thought about and if the gloss covering didn't stand out like a neo-light I wouldn't even think about it?

What say you?

Where can I get new ones without the integral bearing hub? So far I can't find any.

What primary wire should be in the 67 GT500 distributor? Is it a molded 90 degree end with AUTOLITE in it and a specific color?