SAAC Forum

Does that pulley supposed to have an engineering number stamped into it?

Are either of these two the right one?

One is cut much deeper for the retaining nut.

Neither has an id stamped into it?

Is this the right throttle spring?

What color is that? These springs are color coded for application?

Is this an accurate picture of what the original set up looked like?

Which are the original ones and where do they mount on the engine?

I have this cap, C5ZZ-6766-D EC-10,  but it is too large and hits the valve cover.

It can't be the right one?

Is there another, smaller diameter, with the breather tube that fits?

I have a set of C8 upper and lower alternator brackets which I would expect to be on a '68 428cj, not a '67 PI?

I also have a C5TE upper and lower brackets set.

Is there a C6 or C7 stamped bracket that would be expected to be on the '67 428 PI engine?

Mustangtek.com is showing two different pulleys with this engineering number.

One is dual groove. The other three groove.

Which is the correct one for a 67 GT500 non-a/c car, no t/e?

The power steering belt goes directly to the crank and not over the water pump?



I'm just trying to get this right and so many of the engine pictures I can find have been modified.

In addition, not to beat a dead horse, but the search function here is not good. It's pretty bad in fact.

I do remember a discussion about this subject here before but I cannot find it with this search engine. Maybe it was on the crashed sight?

I've never seen one but Ford had them made for every engine series and then some.

The FE's evolved so much I'd think there is more then one kit for them?

Is there a web listing link for kit numbers and applications?

I have two different ones here.

One is zinc cad plated with a hex pattern on the bottom of the cup.

The other is painted white with red instructions printed on the cup. It has a 12 notch pattern on the bottom of the cup.

Are either of these combinations right? Maybe they are both wrong?

Were any of these cups chromed?

What have you got? It doesn't need to be Ford.

Crower has a nice one with stock specs.

PM me.

I messing with a non-stock camshaft and the springs required set up at 1.90".

As a result I'm looking at needing to cut the spring seats deeper. I can't find any references to a maximum safe cut for those spring seats?

Do any of you have those spec's available?

Offhand I don't like the thought of cutting them at all but that most likely is my paranoiac problem and not yours?

Anyone with any insight on the cut? Not the paranoia.

What do the heads of these bolts look like? I'm trying to sort my bolts and don't remember what the originals look like?
Can someone please post a picture to help me out?

Thank you.

Does the 67 GT500 fuel pump get painted?

I can't find the part number for the pilot bushing for the 67 GT500. People keep giving me the small block bushing.

Anyone have a part number for this? It doesn't need to be a Ford service part.

Are the oil cooler lines on the two years the same or is there a difference?

I'm looking for some owner feedback on the benefits of the stock oil pump v. high volume v high pressure in the 67 428.

I'm thinking that the stock pump is all that should be used in this engine.

With the introduction of th 428cj in '68 Ford experienced a bunch of waranty issues with folks pumping the oil pan dry even with a stock pump and as a result revised the markings on the dip sticks to indicate another quart added to the system.

A high volume pump may stress even that added quantity out further?


What's your feelings on this? At hot idle all a stock pump gives is about 12 psi. That's a little unnerving to me?

I've been chasing a hot start problem that I just can't find.

The engine starts fine cold. Runs fine.

In trying to restart it warmed up, it's being difficult.

I've isolated this down to the coil firing at something like 25% of what it should or what it fires at cold.



Also the tach won't rev over 1,200 rpm.


What's been done so far, cleaned all grounds and checked for resistence. New ignition switch. New ignition coil (the third one). Switched to yellow top with new resistance wire to ignition. Took out Petronix and went back to ignition points.

Coil phenolicly isolated from engine heat.


Again, this is the ignition not firing hot. Carbs are not involved in this. This won't even fire hot with starting fluid.

...and yes Coralsnake, pump gas with ethanol (corn juice) in it. 


In 50 years of running these cars, I can't say as I've ever encountered anything exactly like this and stated plainly, I'm stumped.

I'm open to CONSTRUCTIVE ideas. Nothing like, well push it off a cliff or gt a Corvette please?

The previous discussion about blacked out scoops was for '68s.

I presume that the '67s should be blacked out also?

I'm looking for a nice C60A 428 "big clutch" Ford cast iron bellhouse with a nice clear casting date of May 1967. The later the better.

7E31 would be perfect.

Anyone have one they are willing to sell?

PM me.

In a prvious thread there was a discussion about how to reduce fuel line heat sink in 67 GT500s.

If you have attempted to live for any period of time with one, you may have noticed that they can be temperamental and difficult to re-start a hot engine?

Several remarked that they were convinced that the Ford fuel log used was part of the issue



This is what I did for that particular issue.

This black tubing is Delrin. It is generally about 98% or more non absorbent of heat or cold. It always seems to be cool to the touch regardless of how hot it gets and your hand will never freeze to it in sub-zero temps.

This particular piece is 1 inch od, and half inch id. That's a 1/4" thick wall. You can't insulate the fuel much more than that.

These support brackets are aluminum, and rather then running to the intake manifold bolts run to the mounting studs for the carbs.



At the moment I like it in black. I had intended to paint it with Eastwood bronze  carb renew to make it look a little more stock but for the moment I'm holding off on that.

It's been installed and pressure tested but hasn't been put through the paces yet. So far, so good.



This is just a hypnotic subliminal suggestion to some of you still searching for more help on the heat sink issue.

I'm not attempting to corrupt those away from the purity of the original part. Just maybe whispering in your ear? 



This ones on my 347 in my 68 so if all goes well, the 67 GT500 can expect one also.