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Topics - charlie D

#1
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Add overdrive to C6
October 15, 2023, 12:38:43 PM
I'm considering putting a Gear Vendors overdrive on my 67 GT500 C6 automatic. The stock rear is a 3:50 and while that is great for stop light races, it keeps my engine screaming at today's highway speeds. I am still using 15" tires with the 70 profile so that is still a stock setup. Travelling 400 miles on open interstate with even the 18 wheelers rolling at 80 puts me truning well into the mid 3000's I'd like to add the extra gear just to make those segments of travel more comfortable. Anyone done this? If so, are you happy with it? Any information welcome. Oh, yes, I will save and store any removed parts.
Charlie D
#2
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Bouncy speedometer
February 16, 2023, 10:18:33 AM
My speedometer has gotten bouncy at speeds under 40. Seems accurate and steady over 40. I have checked that the cable is well seated in the back, and that seems OK. Not sure that is a symptom of the cable starting to fail or the speedometer itself? So any diagnosis is helpful. Also, if needed, is there a recommended rebuilder or just replace it? Thanks
Charlie D
#3
SAAC-47 / Novice group track time
May 22, 2022, 03:28:07 PM
Are there instructors available for the novice group track time? If yes, how do you request one, I don't see it when you regester. Thanks
Charlie D
#4
Anyone done the 22 gallon fuel tank conversion on their GT500? Considering it before launching off to Indianapolis. Counting on a 3 gallon reserve, I fill up at 130 miles with the stock 16 gallon tank, 22 gallon will get me 190. Any thoughts, done it?
Charlie D
#5
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / 67 GT500 Marti Report
June 11, 2021, 10:09:16 AM
Went to Marti site to order a report for my 67 GT500 3131. The Marti form requests both the Shelby serial # and the underlying Ford serial #. Since the door tag was removed at the Shelby factory, where is the underlying Ford serial #? Is there another location or can it be deciphered from the Shelby serial #?
Thanks for any information.
Charlie D
#6
Anyone planning on going to the Team Shelby East Coast Nationals? Looks like a good event. I am registering to attend and with any luck I'll have the Shelby ready to drive there.
Charlie D
#7
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / GT500 Broken dipstick
August 22, 2020, 06:27:51 AM
About 15 years ago the dipstick snapped off about 6" down from the stop cap. The guide tube looked solid where it is exposed. I had a mechanic I trusted fish out the broken segment and all seemed OK. Last week after an oil change, went to check the level and the dipstick was broken again. I figure it must be hitting the crank and the guide tube must also be broken off inside the pan. Is this a common problem? or should the pan have been dropped and a new guide tube installed the first time? Not looking forward to doing this on my back and will most likely ask a local shop to do it. Looking forward to any information. Thanks
Charlie D
#8
I am installing an MSD tach adapter to the original current sensing tach.  There is a 3 pin connector at the firewall that has red w/green stripe, red, and black with white stripe or vice versa. They are pretty hard to read. On the engine side of the connector are black, black, and red. One of the black wires goes to the temp sensor and the temp gauge works. The red is( I think) ignition positive. Is the other black wire the trigger wire for the tach? I have a mess of spliced wires as I am tracking down some old work that was done for me years ago. At this time the tach will swing from 0 to peg and drop back to 0 and stay there. Hoping once I wire this up per the MSD current sensing tach instructions all will work. Second question: I read on the Pantera forum where some of these adapters have failed, one report of fire. Anyone have information? As always, thanks for your advice.
Charlie D
#9
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / GT500 Starter Motor Replacement
January 28, 2020, 09:28:42 AM
My starter is tired. It is the original starter. I have checked and cleaned the connections, battery is good. Turns engine over slow on initial start and even slower on a hot start. I have headers on and they cleared the stock starter. My car is a C6 automatic. Suppliers list several aftermarket high torque starters and "improved" stock starters that are less prone to heat sink. Have you replaced your starter and what advice do you have? Thanks as always.
Charlie D
#10
Anybody in Maryland going? I am thinking about it, but have not taken a road trip with this car in many, many years. Would be comforting if there were a few of us forming a caravan. Breakdowns are always on the "potential" list.  Let me know.
Charlie D
#11
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / To paint or not to paint?
May 08, 2019, 10:38:34 AM

My wife is the original owner of this 1967 GT500. It basically sat after being retired as a commuter car in 1977. It had a respray in 1972. The question now is should I plan on getting it painted, have a detailer try to work some magic, or just leave it alone? Pictures show the faded section on the hood and some peeling on the left rear fender. The car was never damaged, so I can't explain why only that section is peeling. The only other paint issue is the hood also has some orange peel. Minor door dings from parking lots, but nothing significant. I want this to turn out to be a driver, not a show queen. Any suggestions appreciated. Let me know your experiences. Thanks
Charlie D
#12
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Battery cut off switch
April 02, 2019, 12:08:00 PM
I finally have most of the miswired wiring corrected with a few glitches at the instrument cluster remaining. Finished under the hood and with all the lights. Looking at installing a battery cutoff switch, not one of the knobs you unscrew at the battery. Most likely place seems to be the headlight bracket just forward of the battery, but that means opening a closing the hood each time. Not intending this to be a  theft deterrent. Where have all of you installed a cutoff switch? As always, thanks.
Charlie D
#13
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Replacement carbs
March 21, 2019, 03:20:04 PM
My GT500 has the original carbs. They have been "rebuilt" a couple of times with mostly OK results. They leak again. I have the dreaded vapor lock and based on recommendations from this forum have acquired the spacers and hardware to reduce the vapor lock issue. Since I am taking off the carbs, I am wondering why not install replacement carbs? I can store the originals so they won't go missing for folks wanting those. Has anyone used a more recent carb setup and, if so, what have you used?
Charlie D
#14
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Parcel shelf
March 05, 2019, 02:47:32 PM
I read Kieth's post on the work he did with his trunk mat and adjusting the latch on the trap door. So I figured why not look at that trap door and the back seat latches while I have my front seats out. Easier to work there without the seats in the way. The parcel shelf was loose. I could shake it easily. I removed the screws--one is long, the other short--that hold the metal seat supports and lifted the parcel tray off. No wonder is was loose. The short screw just mounts to the tray itself, the long screw just goes into a large open hole. Was there supposed to be a clip nut for the screw to attach? I recognize these were assembly line cars, but there is no evidence there was ever a means for those screws to attach to anything. Guess it was just one of those noises I avoided all those years. Any information on how that parcel shelf is held down is appreciated.
#15
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / One lead to starter solenoid?
February 16, 2019, 01:34:46 PM
Continuing to work through some sloppy wiring that was done when a shop installed the MSD ignition system. Seems as though he took everything apart to get the tach to work before figuring out a tach adapter would do the trick. Anyway, following leads in the engine bay is when I had an alternator wire just fall off in my hand, no insulation left. I have ordered a replacement alternator harness. But this car got so jury rigged that I am really getting flummoxed. Attaching a picture of the starter solenoid. Only one lead on the front terminals. Mind you, it did crank and start. Anybody seen anything like this? Not sure if I should be messing with it or just let it be.
#16
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / When to stop
January 30, 2019, 03:36:10 PM
I started thinking all I needed to do was replace a heater core. That led to pulling out the front carpet, it was wet and stank from the antifreeze and mouse urine. Then the heater box was nothing but holes and rust, the blower motor was frozen shut so the whole of the heater was replaced and it was a pain to install. Meanwhile, the heat shield that had been installed elsewhere used a foil top and jute base which was also soaked and stank. The cowl and floors were supposed to have had Lizard skin applied when the carpet was replaced. It was all flaked off. So Damplifier and some Dynaliner go in. Meanwhile, since the dash is split and sticky, may as well replace it, along with the instrument bezel that was cracked when the shop installed the electronic ignition, something about getting the tach to work. When I pulled the battery the battery tray was rusted thru, so I removed it to find the inner fender rusted thru under that. Patched in inner fender and replaced the battery tray. Saw a funky looking patch on a wire going to the engine block ground, reached down to look closer and a wire from the alternator fell off in my hand brittle as all H. There is more, like now I get to trace down the other shops work work to figure out why the heater blower motor won't turn off, why there is only one wire connected on the front of the starter solenoid and what the maze of new connections are behind the dash are meant to do. Everything I am touching is turning into a "may as well do it now".
So if you have suffered thru the whine, when do you decided, "it works, leave it alone"? My German heritage pushes me to " do it right or regret it later".  Sometimes that's a curse.
Charlie D
#17
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Vapor lock
January 19, 2019, 08:51:50 AM
My car sat for many years and only had occasional starts and short drives. This past year I used it more and experienced vapor lock. Only happened after I had driven maybe 20-30 minutes. I have read somewhere on this forum that the alcohol blended fuel boils at a lower temp causing these cars to be prone to vapor lock. So while I am working on it this winter it might be a good time to do what I can to prevent vapor lock. The fuel lines are away from the block and the fuel log is offset from the block. I can easily insulate those, but I suspect the fuel actually boils in the carbs. Has anyone used the spacer blocks sold to isolate the carbs from heat? What have your experiences been with vapor lock and what did you do to cure it? Thanks.
Charlie D
#18
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Export brace GT500
January 04, 2019, 04:37:36 PM
I am in the process of reinstalling my export brace. It came off easily but getting it back on is proving a challenge. I have finger tightened the 4 bolts at the firewall and on the right side mount put some nuts on just a couple of turns so the brace would stay on the bolts. The fun comes in on the left side as I can push hard on the brace, but it comes within about 1/8" of slipping on the bolts. I tried using a breaker bar(with some leather to protect the body panel) and that gets it a little closer, but still not enough. Anyone have some tips on how to get this attached? As always, thanks in advance.
Charlie D
#19
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / 67 GT500 valve cover gaskets
December 18, 2018, 12:45:06 PM
Now that I have the heater box back in place, I am ready to reassemble all that I took apart. I removed the export brace and valve covers to have easier access to the heater hoses and blower motor attachment bolts. I ordered valve cover gaskets from one of our well known suppliers and received the FelPro  rubber gaskets. These gaskets are very hard rubber. There is about a 1/8" riser notch that separates the upper and lower halves of the valve tray cast into the heads. The old gaskets were cork. I just don't believe the rubber gaskets will conform to that change in elevation and make a good seal. The previous gaskets were cork. Anyone have experience with the rubber vs cork valve cover gaskets for these engines? As always, thanks for any suggestions.
#20
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Electric power steering anyone?
December 17, 2018, 11:44:27 AM
 Has anyone converted their power steering on a GT500 to electric and gotten rid of the pump and all that plumbing?  I did this on a Triumph TR8 recently and the manual steering bolted right into the space and same holes from the power steering. Needed to change out the tie rod ends and steering column, but it was a really simple job that cleaned up the engine bay a lot. I thought I would need to add electric power steering, but on the Triumph the manual steering is pretty easy. Doubt that would be the case on the GT500, besides its my wife's car. I understand and respect those who want to be preservationists, so don't take offence at the suggestion to make an alteration. I'll keep the old parts for the next owner.