SAAC Forum

I would go.

You know-Jerry Oldrige and his son from arkansas. they used to always come to the spring fling and go to Tulsa.

 Brent- this event is always the weekend before memorial day, right? I am already making plans for next year; I've been away too long. You guys always had one of the best events with the best people. I just got the car out of the shop after building the engine/gearbox and I'm ready to drive.  Ever hear out of the Oldridge guys?
Thanks,
   Tim

So I just got my car out of the shop; it was in to rebuild the motor. While it was out I had the T10 built because it would jump out of 2nd gear when going down hill if I was backing out of it, letting the motor hold the car back a little.  Now that I've got it back, it does the same thing. I don't think it would have anything to do with it, but it has had a balky Hurst shifter as long as I've had it-it makes the 1-2 shift harder than it should be but I just put up with it cause I thought it looked great and I kinda liked it. Could the shifter have anything to do with this??

Thanks

 I hear they usually have about 20 cars of the featured marque parked together; I hope there are more than that.

Anybody sign up to do the one lap of the mountains tour?

 Thanks

 They're telling me it's really not a concours, that they don't look at the underside of the cars and check to make sure every bolt and clamp is correct; that a lot of them do the driving tour of the mountains. That being said, I'll bet the cars are pretty much going to be very nice, almost too nice to drive.
They also say Chuck Cantwell is going to be there, but I don't know in what capacity.

 Can you guys tell me how to correctly restore the hood hinges on #330; do I send them out for cad plating or blast and paint them?

Thanks

 Are any of you guys panning on going to the Highlands Motoring Festival in June? I saw that they are featuring Shelby cars; looks interesting.

 While the motor is out of the car I want to get the grille cleaned up; I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the way to do this is to remove the grille, scrub it with steel wool, repaint the bars satin black then go over the front of the grille again with steel wool to remove paint from the chrome. Does this sound right? Things look to be good except for the chipping black paint.

Also, is the monte carlo bar supposed to be gloss black?

It seems that every time I look at the car now I seem some other thing that I want to make better.

Thanks

 The damper dudes guy says he can rebuild this piece for 150.00 with a one day turn around. Sounds pretty good; I think I'll try that.

The 66 gas cap has a thin round rubber seal around the inner perimeter (at least mine does) and it is worn flat, doesn't really do much anymore.

 I'm rebuilding my 289 and noticed the rubber in the harmonic balancer is cracking; do you guys have a vote in how to fix this? rebuild? buy the Scott Drake repro? don't worry so much?
Thanks

Also, the rubber gasket on the fuel cap is worn out. No telling what could get in the tank if I drive in the rain; can these be replaced?

Thanks for your time

 Sorry I'm late to reply; I went to Monterey for car week and haven't checked my email for a few days. I am running old hipo type plug wires, not new spiral metal stuff. I am running the pertronix coil that is made for this module; I'll check to see if the module has moved tomorrow evening.
Thanks again.

 I recently had my 66 350 dual point rebuilt by Nelson industries in Charlotte because the pin that holds the drive gear in place broke; when the distributor was reinstalled and timing set to 38 degrees total advance the car ran better than ever, but would cut out at 5000 RPM. No big deal, I thought as the rebuild included installing a new Pertronix 3 which is supposed to have a rev limit set at 5500 RPM from the factory. I just figured mine was set to 5000 instead; this is easily changed, so I did. I backed out of the garage, shut the car down, and adjusted the rev limiter to 6000. Now, when I start the car, it immediately dies; start right up, then quit, over and over. I can't get it to run no matter what I do. I took it to a shop that thought the ignition switch was bad and replaced it. This, of course was no help, and maybe a little worse as the last time I tried to start, the car backfired through the #1 carb. (the car has webers).
Thanks