SAAC Forum

I hope everybody likes this I just want to share my weekend with you guys. Leave a thumb up at YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PB-5We1dkfU

hello, what is the correct paint for the 9" rear end housing? I know its a satin black but what kind of paint was it? epoxy, alkyd, etc. I just try to figure it the right way. I think they were no primered before the paint. Maybe someone can help me.

I found a Mopar in Castro Valley and need someone who can make the first check for me, its nothing extraordinary just a Mopar from the 60s. I just need an overlook. Maybe someone here can help me. Thanks Kent

This one is not an original part like claimed.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/266092334276

I need a 67 PI for a project I have here. Maybe someone can help me out. It can be a complete engine or just the block. Thanks a lot.

Can someone here tell me exactly when the Bendix Control Valves were changed to embossed letters? I have some here and some are 68s. But the raised letter I normally see on earlier mustangs around 67. Is that correct, every information is appreciated. And when exactly did ford changed the pressure port sizes. Was it really from 67 to 68 model so there are no 67s with the larger port? I just wonder if maybe then they changed the casting and started also with the embossed letters.

I just was working on some stuff and found these parts in my shelf, I think the lid could be 68 from my opinion as I have some 67 here and they look different and I remember from a 68 I had that had the same lid.

The base I´m not sure where its originally from but it was on a 67 Gt500 that was pretty original and nothing was changed on it since the 80s.

The grilles were from a stable of parts I bought some years ago. Seller said original Shelby parts, but I´m not so sure.

Thanks for the help.

I´m still thinking about how I can test my tachs here. I have a 65 Mustang here with no tach and would like to use this engine as the bench. So would it be ok to take a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor between and put it in line with the ignition switch to coil +

I read on some other forums that some people don't use a ballast resistor and only put the tach in line from ignition switch to coil +

Is there maybe a drawing or something how to do it right, thanks...

What is the deal with these filters I can't find them really and what was for sale was really expensive. Why are people searching for these?

I just looked at my instruments I have from several years collecting. I knew the most or all 67 Shelby´s had the redline 8000 rpm and I wonder about the part number if this was different to the not redline 8000 rpm in 67 as I also have one 8000 rpm with C7 part number.

The 68´s CJ and S Code Mustangs were always without redline from what I know and I have seen on mine.
68 Shelby I have usually seen with redline also, so was this a shelby thing or did normal Mustangs also received 8000 rpm with redline?

When you look at the one picture with the 2 redline 8000 rpm there is a difference in the warning light below 1 has the two small boxes and the other one has a small thin band I will make a better picture of it, this means its the brake light warning from a cougar so is this a refaced to 8000 rpm speedo?

So all 67 Shelby´s had the 2 check light boxes for oil and alt and a 8000 rpm redline and I guess 68 Shelby the same yes. but 428 CJ and S Code Mustang just had 8000 rpm with no redline, correct?

And another thing the gauge pod on the picture how can you tell exactly if repro or original? I would say repro or repainted. But I´m not sure as I can't find the thread about these.

Ok lets go from there

1967 GT500 with a freezed engine in 1968 that became a 427 Sideoiler in 70/71 but all parts around the engine were saved now thinking about to do something new. What would you do and why.

Options are

-427 Shelby All Aluminum FE Sideoiler Engine with Shelby Heads etc. but original 427 $ Crankshaft to have the correct stroke and use of the original intake, carbs, distributor, covers, and so on etc.
-428 PI original like in 67
-427 sidoiler iron block like its now in it with the original GT5oo components around

What will be more worth at the end with the history of the freezed engine in 68 and change to a 427 in 70/71

My customer and I are guessing which instrument is correct for his S Code I say

120 mph without trip odometer
6000 rpm
oil pressure in the middle, left gas tank, right Amperemeter

at the moment he has not the correct instrument in the car and I would like to bring it back to original. Thanks for the help

I would be interested to bring together at which timeframe the Spec Case became the drain plug from observations, pictures, knowledge etc.

I know that the first GT500´s came with 9" housings with a drain plug in the axle and the spec case was without
from what I saw the may/June cars sometimes came sometimes with both drain plugs so for the rear end housing and spec case
and then the last ones had 9" rear end housings without plug and the spec case had a plug.

Is that correct so far. Maybe we can bring it together here to keep this for the files. Thanks...

This C8AE 8505 H water pump was overhauled and looks great inside, I just used it for some days. Then I decided to take the tuned version I already had even if its not matching. This one is 100% original Ford with the date code 8E28 perfect for your GT500 or KR or Cobra Jet

Shipping to the US is app 50$
Price for the water pump 350$

I´m always interested in 67 parts for Shelby GT500 or 350 so please show me what you have I also can pay the difference.

I have these 4 hubcaps for sale. Shipping to the US is 150$

Price 500$

Does somebody here has some pictures of the correct taillight lenses. I have 6 or 7 sets from what appears to be original nos, the ones in my shelby which also appear correct and some reproductions with FoMoCo logo and numbers. How can I exactly tell which ones are original and which not? Are they really so close in finish and numbers or is there something I´m missing how to divide them?

I just found these and maybe someone here needs them. I don't have no 68´s anymore so I don't need the hubcaps. Shipping to the US is around 150-200$ they raised the prices this year but its not more than that . I´m also interested in trades for 67 Shelby Parts.

Price 750$

I also have 4 thunderbird 1967 caps Incl. shelby emblems

I just had some people asking me here in the forum and friends in the Usa if I can send them some cars because of the real good exchange rate for you. And yes I can do it.
I imported 100s of classics from the Usa to Germany but there is no problem to do it in the other direction also.

If the car is older than 25 years its really easy. So if you are looking for something special from Europe or maybe see something that is reasonably priced or you want me to do some research for something, just let me know. At the moment I have some Ferrari F40s, Porsche, BMW M1 that I can buy but also normal stuff like Bel Air´s, Corvette´s and other rare US Classics that were restored here and are in 1+ condition. Also G Class Mercedes or 110 Defender. Just let me know if you need something and maybe we can work something out.

p.s I already looked at some 66/67 Shelby´s here in Germany which get shipped back to the USA to a Collector

I just bought some hubcaps from this lady and she asked me if the sill plates are original also and what they could be worth. From what I see they look original to me but I would like to have some input from you guys as I´m always careful when its on pictures.

I know this one was on CL some years ago because of the paint job I couldn't´t forget it 

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/ford/shelby-mustang/2603888.html