SAAC Forum

Hello, I've been working on my restoration (slowly) of 2227 for the last 3 years. I prefer to use either NOS or assembly line parts when able. One of the most difficult parts to find (my experience) would be an original assembly line or over the ford parts counter rear valance. i purchased a valance about 2 years ago and then another one yesterday in Atlanta. Not that i needed a 2nd valance but when I saw the date code in the metal I knew it was an OEM part and I wanted it. When I arrive home I compared the two units and noticed a difference with the holes to bolt the valance to the lower part of the tail panel. It could be different assembly plants used different styles?  I'm no expert on rear 1966 valances but I know many of the forum have this knowledge. notice one has slots and the other has a round holes. I only took pics of the center on the valance which displays the stamped date code and examples of the different screw holes. if someone wants me to load more pictures I can. BTW Yes both valances have the cut outs for back up light and they both look machined punched. Also, I was told at the Carlisle national ford show last year that 1966 valances with the cut out for BU lights were not available NOS? Easy to find with No BU light cut outs or exhaust cut outs. specifically I'm asking about the style of valance used on a 1966 GT-350's. 

Please let me summarize my questions: 1) are these original parts displayed in pics?  2) what are the differences with the two valances? (based off screw holes) 3) is this part available NOS? 4) which style valance would be correct for my san jose car?

Lastly, Thank you for reading my long post and I really appreciate your feedback.

 I was installing a cobra intake on my hipo motor from car 6S2227 and while in my 3rd and final round of tighten bolts the intake end broke. I was using a torque wrench, started at 12 lbs, then 20 lbs, last setting 26 lbs and the corner cracked. (See pic). What did I do wrong? I've installed 50 aluminum intakes in my life on 302's and never had this happen.  Only saving grace, this was an aftermarket blue thunder intake.... not my original intake. Still I hate destroying my intake. Also this was my 1st time installing any intake on a 289 engine all my previous intakes are 302's. Prior installing intake i knew 289's have slightly shorter head mating surface, weaken mounting area, & exposing the bolt. But I assumed by following same torque sequence would work just fine.  So before I destroy another intake please advise me what I did wrong? Lastly thank you for your assistance I've found this forum incredibly helpful and friendly. Fred

BTW - i can load more pictures of removed intake if helpful in diagnosing issue.

So, after almost 3 years of ownership I've started disassembly of my GT350. Very exciting time for me. What I'm about to share my not be interesting to anyone but thought someone in our forum might enjoy? Once I finish full disassembly, plan to vacuum complete car and wash  well. Once super clean, my intent is to identify all markings and then measure/photograph each before soda blasting. During restoration plan to replace all markings. All four pictures are taken on the outside of the engine bay (both sides). I will try to load pics in the order in which identified.
1st-  yellow 32-31 located RH side frame rail.
2nd - large yellow D on outside battery tray area inner fender
3rd- yellow  21311 located LH frame rail under main fuel line
4th - white 133 & 16 outside engine bay near where hood hinge bolts LH side

question - did I miss any markings? specifically outside engine bay? until I clean the whole car it will be hard to see any other assembly line marking. My car has been sitting, mostly untouched\unmolest, since late 70's or early 80's.

thank you for your time, Fred

So planning to start my full restoration on 6S2227 next year. (BTW fully assembled, never wrecked, never taken apart, sitting since early 80's-exciting times!)  Ive been buying limited NOS metal in preparation for my work. Ive always wondered about the variety and history of factory metal. Can someone explain the following - also which is best?
1) red oxide primer sheet metal with fomoco paper sticker and date code stamped in metal (my experience oldest example of metal ) no yellow paint part number.
2) red oxide primer sheet metal with a yellow part number painted on back side (not sure if date code stamped on or not?)
3) black colored sheet metal - typically newer looking part number decal\sticker on sheet metal- does it have a date stamp?
4) original ford tooling sold everywhere today - i know ford must be compensated for the use of their FORD name. It is REALLY stamped from the original tooling machines? because Ive used (in other projects) OF Tooling metal which fit TERRIBLE. equally as bad as some import metal.

Hopefully ive done a decent job in explaining my questions. Thank you all for your valuable time in responding- Fred

Good morning. I've been looking for good pictures online of a correct factory replacement exhaust systems and not been successful. Not to buy but to see properly installed. Could be I'm not looking in the correct places? Also I used the search engine in this forum and not found photos.

I've always found the members of this SAAC forum be incredibly resourceful.

Be great if someone would post 3 pictures of an installed exhaust system from exit of tri-y headers to the rear where resonators exit w\turn downs at rear. It could be an original system or reproduction system which simulates the factory system. Or if someone has a great web site I could visit - Thanks Fred

I need a little help with the carter button top FP I pulled off my car 6S2227. I'm not sure how to date it or identity as the correct model for my car. I really find it hard to believe it is the original Fuel Pump - it had to be replaced over the years? Though prior to me purchasing the car in Feb 2019  -  its been sitting since about 1982 ish. Main body displays 0-1719, then under housing one side has (hard to read) 4567S & other side 12F9A (maybe?) I hope it is the real deal but really do not think it will be. I searched the archives in this forum and didn't see any old postings for button tops. I appreciate your time- Fred

I've always wanted to ask this question to someone which really knows. When looking at restored GT-350's and mustangs from 1966. Sometimes you see the coil mounted on the passenger side and sometimes on the drivers side. what gives? I'm guessing maybe the carry over cars (because 65 mustangs) might be different than those manufactured in 1966? maybe mustangs had coils placed different than GT-350's? Could be ford changed placement during the 1966 build year?  Please school me!  Thanks, Fred

Hopefully someone can identify this pictured rivet. After looking for a GT-350 for 20 years finally able to purchase 6S2227 a few weeks ago from the previous owner since 1972.  As I've been assessing the car- I noticed the rivets used  to hold the side scoops are unlike what i have seen on real GT-350's in the past. Typically you see the standard aluminum rivet. I've not started disassembly yet so i don't know the configuration on the inside behind fiberglass panel. The attached picture displays the dark blackish colored rivet. It has an extended head on it. The previous owner of 47 years stated this is the way he received the car. I have a good eye and does not seem to ever been wrecked. Both side scoops have the same rivet setup on both sides, top and bottom. Can anyone identify? Thank you Fred