SAAC Forum

Cory, I believe the guys are correct that the plug just pushes on (but can be damned ornery from corrosion).
As a sidenote, I have found that Rain-X offers significant help without relying on speed in a downpour. The original wipers are modest at best in making the water go away. I have found that a good cleaning and a coat of Rain-X helps visibility in unexpected bad weather when driving.

j

It depends on which T-5 you get. There are 3 primary variants, W/C NWC and the Z spec. I'm running the Z spec which was used behind the '93 Cobra Mustang and is rated at 330 lb-ft. Given that I wanted a spirited  driver and not a frequent drag racer I have no issues with it. Some of the earlier models were not as robust.

jim

Greg,
+1 - Bruce at Modern Driveline; I got a tremendous amount of help from him when I put a T-5Z in 1801. It was singularly the best upgrade I have done to the car. Bruce worked through getting me connected to my 5 bolt COBRA bellhousing, which needed an adapter plate. I'm on the East Coast so all of this was done via pictures in email and phone calls.

The only "major" change to my car was that my specific installation ended up needing a shorter driveshaft - and I simply had a local shop fabricate one so my original is untouched. I stayed with stock clutch linkage and no modification was necessary to the tunnel. The T-5 has a shifter that even looks like the stock Ford unit.

I am running a 347 stroker with Webers so it handles the power/torque well. I have been running this setup since 2006.

jim

You have put together a truly impressive amount of knowledge and laid it out so even guys like me can understand.  Thank you for your dedication and sharing, Jeff.

jim

When I started this thread, I was concerned with the response I would get by using Hagerty. The problem is, with a limited production vehicle like ours, there aren't *that* many examples for sale at any given point in time. Compound that problem with a wide variety of conditions in the sale units and you realize that the best you are going to get is an approximation of the market (not to mention that the market itself is subject to periodic ups and downs).  While I was looking at trying to establish a "value", many of you have brought up that the nature of the auctions can obscure the concept of value. Getting people pitted against each other aggressively bidding can mask a vehicles value – though it cannot be denied that it certainly drives perceived value. The problem I see is that that pricing does not always hold up when the competitive bidding environment is removed.

That said, I am grateful to everyone who commented. Our vehicles do engender passion and that is yet another component to their selling price – or the argument about it.

At the end of the day, value should remain with good examples of the Marque, be they complete or in pieces.

Quote from: 6S1523 on January 23, 2018, 02:31:38 AM
Interesting line of discussion.  30+ years around these cars and I agree with the methodology that you can base the asking price on the finalized value post restoration.  The problem is getting a buyer to agree to that finalized value.  The market for these cars is all over the place right now, but let's take the example of an incorrect date code non-original block/transmission driver quality restoration.  Right now in early 2018, that seems to be a $130-140k car at most.  If you have a chassis with a good history but incorrect engine and transmission, obvious street to track to street conversion, that's probably the most you can reasonably expect the car to be worth.  If the current condition of the chassis would require $50k to make it a $140k car, no investor will give you $90k for it, you're looking at offers of $60k-$75k at most, leaving an acceptable margin in the car to profit even in the event of market fluctuations.

You've really nailed it! I am very grateful for the responses here. I honestly *do* understand that this is a fluid market and that it is quite different from where/when I started. Unfortunately, my cars are a reflection of me - I have a replaced shoulder and hip, the cars have their own analog. We will never be original again but we seem to be doing OK all the same - even if I'm not "numbers matching" <g>. I am learning what those differences are "worth".

Best of luck to you on 1523!

jim

Beautiful job on the gauges. My only question is didn't the supercharger gauge do both vacuum and pressure?

jim

Quote from: Greg on January 21, 2018, 08:37:47 PM
I really depends (I know a generic statment).  If you look at the current private market, 65's are worth about $300K.  There are quite a few 65's that are priced at $450-$500K, but most of them don't sell.  I see the 66's in two markets, the Hertz and non-Hertz.  Since yours is not a Hertz car lets focus on "general sale" cars.  For a restored car I've seen 66's in the $180-$200K range and ones that need a lot of help as low as $90K.  Cars with their original engines will always command a higher price.

I will take a stab at the value....

A 66 shelby with the original engine and Al manual trans in non-driveable condition and all there $140-150K
A 66 Shelby with the original engine, Al manual trans in driver condition $160-$175K
Restored 66 with the original engine, Al manual trans $190-$200K

If yours needs a lot of help not original and not running but complete $100K
If your is missing a lot of parts, rough condition and not running $90K

All this is my humble opinion and what I have seen....

Thanks Greg,
I tend to agree with your line of reasoning. When I started this I was looking for a rational way to bridge the gap between the sensational numbers we tend to see from the auctions and the reality of what's sitting in my garage.
I appreciate your input.

jim

Steve, I appreciate your opinion on this. Yes, there is a bit of latitude (maybe a bunch) necessary due to any circumstances not in the ordinary run of things. While I quoted Hagerty's rates, my point was, would that method of calculation be a reasonable way of determining value.

jim

Chris, I fully understand that. Part of the problem is that there are so few resources for our specific cars which is what led me to posting the issue here.

Thank you, Bob.

I started this discussion with Dave Redman but thought that you folks would also have some relevant opinions. As I wrote to Dave, I am probably not going to get around to restoring what had been a B-Production SCCA school car (6S2021). It had been stripped down with the glass and rollcage removed in the early 80's. With the best of intentions, and many life changes later, it has become a repository of other non-moving things in my garage. It's been in the registry since the 80's and has some cute anecdotes but nothing particularly exceptional.
Hagerty Insurance has a Valuation tool that says that the Average value for a 1966 GT-350 runs $198,000 for a #2 Excellent car (and $250,000 for a concours example). Numbers like this scare me since I've hung onto these cars for what feels like just short of forever (I've owned this one since the early 70's). But just for the sake of argument, let's say that if it would take $100,000 to get the chassis into #2 condition, does that mean that my chassis could be worth $98,000 give or take?
I understand that it's only worth what someone is willing to pay for it, but what is a fair method of establishing its worth as it stands? Obviously, it's much easier for completed cars, there are more comparables. The car has significant value but I am in a quandary as to what would be a fair valuation or how to determine it. Asking the folks in the Shelby community seemed like the most reasonable starting point.

jim