SAAC Forum

Quote from: Dennis Y on January 16, 2024, 07:27:32 PM
Ed, do you know if the are splined near the flat head to lock them in place and can you just punch them out to remove?

they look welded in?

Does anyone know why the pair of L88 Corvettes(67+69) disappeared as a pair? It wouldn't be the first time a hyped 7 figure car got pulled. They were advertised as lot U78 first and last L88s produced.

Quote from: Bob Gaines on January 16, 2024, 01:57:11 PM

Quote from: shelbymann1970 on January 16, 2024, 11:25:39 AM

Quote from: brandosaac on January 10, 2024, 08:01:01 PM
I know that the 70 shelby was basically a 69 with a 70 vin number,
But what toploader is correct for a 70 GT500 ?

Would it have the same RUG-AE2 tag, C7OR tail  thats in the 69 and use the same 69 shifter?
or
Would it be a RUG-AZ tag , with a D0ZR tail and a Hurst shifter

The only things that would not be as assembly line"69" built would be your carb and dist with a manual choke cable, hood stripes and front spoiler added along with tire pressure sticker on pass door jamb and 69 data plate replaced with data sticker. Now I'll also say it is possible depending on when a 70 left KK they could have had the later "size" tires mounted for a few reasons. I'm pretty sure mine left KK with size tires(pics from 70-71 the car has size tires) on it but that is an old discussion I don't want to get revisited.

Oh come on.

I only wish someone could enhance this pic from the last batch leaving KK April 1970.

Quote from: Coralsnake on January 16, 2024, 01:30:00 PM
Well, depending on where the car was sent, it could have more modifications like the evap emissions

😉

I knew I'd forget something. Thanks Pete.

Quote from: brandosaac on January 10, 2024, 08:01:01 PM
I know that the 70 shelby was basically a 69 with a 70 vin number,
But what toploader is correct for a 70 GT500 ?

Would it have the same RUG-AE2 tag, C7OR tail  thats in the 69 and use the same 69 shifter?
or
Would it be a RUG-AZ tag , with a D0ZR tail and a Hurst shifter

The only things that would not be as assembly line"69" built would be your carb and dist with a manual choke cable, hood stripes and front spoiler added along with tire pressure sticker on pass door jamb and 69 data plate replaced with data sticker. Now I'll also say it is possible depending on when a 70 left KK they could have had the later "size" tires mounted for a few reasons. I'm pretty sure mine left KK with size tires(pics from 70-71 the car has size tires) on it but that is an old discussion I don't want to get revisited.

Quote from: Special Ed on January 15, 2024, 06:27:37 PM
Yours are twisted off like one of mine and the studs have a flat head to keep from pulling thru.  Anybody know where u can buy them studs or make them as many are twisted off ?

I can make some but would need a drawing or example.

Quote from: musclecarman15 on January 15, 2024, 09:17:40 AM
No ,it's a c6 d part number..printed on cable with a cover( sheathing )down by exhaust, believe asbestos,so repo is not the same.

Which one is a C6 D? Thanks. Gary

351w starter cable. Is it the same as a cj or Boss 9? Are there numbers on the cable?

Quote from: musclecarman15 on January 11, 2024, 02:40:15 PM
would like to know the proper choke heat shield on 69-70 gt350. information so far is the part is listed in the 69-70 parts list as c9zz-9861-B , dont know what that looks like...would love to see an nos one.  know the c9zz-9861-A version is for the 2bbl. version 69 mustangs. have a choke heat shield from a 69 mustang with the 351w 4bbl. carburetor....this will not fit due to the carburetor height reduction on a shelby ,when a different carb spacer is used than a 69 351w 4bbl. mustang. this part is shown on coralsnakes website but has been cut to fit. dont know if ford or shelby modified the production part or was the flat shield version used as seen on some 69-70 gt350 cars. if someone has an original survivor car ,would love pictures. would also like to know what part number in parts book shows for production 69 mustang with 351w 4bbl. engine...any help is appreciated, as goal is to find out what really came on a 69-70 shelby gt350 for a choke heat shield. thx keith

I have my original one put away with my carb. Not sure how it is different. I see Pete's pic in the link below showing the shield and throttle bracket. They appear to be the same as to what I have on my car. https://www.thecoralsnake.com/1969Carb.html

Quote from: imming1965 on January 11, 2024, 11:33:16 AM
can anyone provide good pictures of 1969 GT350 with automatic transmission. finishes and appearance photos.
Pan Natural? color of dip stick? etc?

concours mustang forum page has some good pics I think of both the engine and transmission.  https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11.msg28#msg28

Quote from: Bob Gaines on January 11, 2024, 09:54:47 AM

Quote from: shelbymann1970 on January 11, 2024, 07:40:51 AM

Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on December 28, 2023, 11:53:15 AM
Has anyone ever tried making the upper control arm supports using a block of 4" x 4" wood cut to proper length and a notch cut in the end for the frame rail contact point.  I can't weld so this might be a good alternative for me.  Let me know if anyone has done this successfully so I can get the dimensions.  Thanks.

I'm not sure what you mean on upper arm support. When doing some work about 3-4 decades ago I had to support my upper control arm. In the 69 Shop manuals was a drawing of the tool needed. I welded up a tool out of CRS and it worked great. It supported the upper arm to the frame rail. I was replacing a LCA IIRC.

Yes the illustration to make the tool is in ALL of the 65-70 shop manuals. There any number of alternatives to do the same thing as the welded metal tool like wood 2x4 or 4X4. Just don't compromise your safety by using something that is ether not strong enough or doesn't make positive contact to support the upper arm. If you don't have a shop manual for your year of interest then get one .Besides the brace illustration it has a multitude of other helpful info.

Yeah, to be clear I had a 30 years experience tool and die welder weld up my tool.

Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on December 28, 2023, 11:53:15 AM
Has anyone ever tried making the upper control arm supports using a block of 4" x 4" wood cut to proper length and a notch cut in the end for the frame rail contact point.  I can't weld so this might be a good alternative for me.  Let me know if anyone has done this successfully so I can get the dimensions.  Thanks.

I'm not sure what you mean on upper arm support. When doing some work about 3-4 decades ago I had to support my upper control arm. In the 69 Shop manuals was a drawing of the tool needed. I welded up a tool out of CRS and it worked great. It supported the upper arm to the frame rail. I was replacing a LCA IIRC.

Quote from: Special Ed on January 10, 2024, 06:57:48 PM
c70a boots are different between uppers and lowers as the lower rubber lip is thicker on 1 vs the other.

Thanks Ed.

Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 20, 2023, 09:28:07 PM

Quote from: Steve Meltzer on December 20, 2023, 09:16:23 PM
The grease boots on both the upper and lower ball joints in my 68 KR are torn to shreds. So, I decided to replace them. It turns out, as you all already know, that the boot is integrated into the ball joint which in turn, is riveted to the control arm.

What is the best way to do this, and yet keep it as original as possible, and looking as good as it does? Is there a service that can do this at a reasonable cost or should I buy one of the various replacements that seem to be readily available from one of the vendors? I want to keep the car as close to original and correct on my watch as possible. Thanks for your advice. Steve

ADD:  The spring removal tool suggested here looks to be quite substantial, and the mechanic doing the work is pleased so far. Thanks, Steve

I assume yours are restored original .  Talk to Marcus Angel he can put new boots on .https://anghelrestorations.com/  The repro replacements do not look near as authentic when compared to restored originals .

Hi Bob,  are you referring to the Carpenter ones for the dust boots? A few minutes ago I emailed Marcus showing him I had my original ball joints apart now. Are the lower boots the same? I got a pair of NOS lower arms that are service(not assy line correct) that I'd take the boots off of if need be. Been talking to Marcus and he is going to rivet mine and finish them. See pic. Also I replaced the boot before on a pair of originals following the advice of SAAc members on gently prying up the metal ring and inserting the seal. No problem with those boots for years before the car sold. But it was original rings also.

Quote from: Bob Gaines on January 10, 2024, 02:35:41 PM
The rubber well nuts can in some situations allow the mirror to vibrate compared to the solid foundation that the all metal rivnut provides . Been there done that. Fortunately if vibrating is a problem switching over to the the rivnut is a easy switch.

I've been fortunate with no vibration. I'd rivnut it on if you have the tool. I've done many mirrors over the years because the rivnuts were rusty, loose, etc and I didn't have the tool or knew at the time where to buy them. The well nuts create a watertight seal, easy to remove and why I loved using them on rear window louvers over the years. MY current Mach1 I put louvers on in 2015 and the NPD kit came with a tool for installing the rivnuts so I went that route. I was just offering another option that has served me well over the years.