SAAC Forum

Thanks for all the good info! The car I'm looking at appears to have the quench heads when the engine was changed, as it is a H-code.

Don
gt350bp

Thank you! I checked with a friend that hs an M-code and his heads are marked with the 4 also. Appreciate our help

Don
gt350bp

Any 351-C experts able to help with identifying 4-V quench heads? The car I'm looking at has a 4 cast into the head next to the valve cover flange. I remember that there are two markings. One with just the 4 and another with a 4 and a dot casting. I thought the 4 with a dot are the quench heads for higher compression.

Can anyone confirm?

Thank you.

Don
gt350bp

With the Shelby drop, are you running any negative wedge camber kits? If the springs are too long, I would expect this to occur. I generally will get everything together and set the car down as noted. Another suggestion is to use the roller bearing spring seats.

Don
gt350bp 

Wonder what happened to the original Gurney Weslake engine that was in the former Bondurant car? Was one of the finest ERA GT 40's I've ever seen! Hard to beat Guardsman Blue!

Just wanted to thank everyone for the input on the KR shocks. I think I'm going with the Gabriel shocks that NPD recommends. They have a rear shock that is longer and HD so I will use those and the recommended fronts. They are out of the rear AMK installation hardware at this time, so that will have to wait. The shocks have fine threads, so I'm not sure if that is appropriate for a late 68 KR? (July 26 th build) Anyone have any experience with the Gabriel shocks and how well they work?

Don
gt350bp

Looks like the Gabriel Classic shocks are made in straight and bulged tubes. The straight tube looks similar to the original pictured. Need to verify length for a KR with staggered shocks and the tube diameters. Might be a close replacement for a car that will be driven?

Don
gt350bp

Checked the Gabriel website and found a Classic shock that is 17.67 (extended) length and 10.56 (compressed) length rear shock for a Mustang. Would that be appropriate for a staggered shock KR. They also look like a straight tube. Checking the site for an appropriate front shock that might be able to add the discs to look like an original Autolite.

Don
gt350bp

My thought was to make them in two pieces and weld from the underside with shock extended?

Don
gt350bp

Thanks for the info! What is the diameter and thickness of the disc below the top bushing? Might punch out some two piece discs to replicate the front shocks. Looks like there are also holes in the disc. What is the size and location. Would anyone be interested in the discs if I decide to have them made?

NPD advertises Gabriel Shock that best replicate the original Autolites. It appears that they are noted as shorter than original fo the rears. I guess that is what Special Ed is referencing. Is there a correct shock to use for the fronts and rears?

If someone is already making the discs for the front shocks, I would rather not reinvent the wheel and will purchase a set.

Thanks you.

Don
gt350bp

Can anyone recommend a set of shocks for a 68 KR that look somewhat original and are good for a car that will be frequently driven? It's time to remove the Koni's I installed 40+ years ago.

In addition, I think the front shocks get painted Ford Corporate Blue and the rears are supposed to be semi-gloss black with an orange paint marking for identification. The orange is on the build sheets I have for my car (#04412) Any detailing photos of the front and rear shocks would be great.

Thank you.

Don
gt350bp   

Put the recommended #78 jets in the primary metering block as well as changed the power valve to a 5.5. Increased the primary accelerator pump nozzle to a #37. Set timing at 36 degrees total and 13 degrees initial in the mechanical advance MSD Pro Billet distributor. (Green spacer) Can finally pull out of the driveway without upsetting the neighbors! Still have a slight bog and surge just above idle at 25 to 30 mph.

Ordered a #40 accelerator nozzle for the next change.

Thanks for the recommendations and help, as I'm going in the right direction on the changes.

Don
gt350bp

Want to be sure that the initial suggested is 12 degrees and then 26 degrees of advance for total 38 degrees? Factory setting is 6 degrees BTDC.

Thank you.

Don

Engine builder got back in contact and confirmed 10.5 compression ratio and suggested 38 degrees on the timing. Initial is at 6 BTC.

Made the carburetor changes yesterday but was unable to take for a test drive. The changes were that I installed a 5.5 power valve and changed primary jets to #78's. Increased primary nozzle to #37 and secondary nozzle to #35. Not sure if the weather is going to cooperate today as we are bracing for some bad thunderstorms moving into Central Florida.

Don
gt350bp

What jets, power valve and carburetor are you using in your 482 Side Oiler? Looks like we are chasing the same issue. Tomorrow, I intend to change the primary jets to #78's and I think the power valve to a 5.5.

Today with the increased nozzle size to a #35 and green accelerator pump cam in the #2 position, the car was at least somewhat drivable leaving the neighborhood. Once it is rolling, hold on!

I believe it is about 10.5 compression with the Edelbrock aluminum heads with a KCR stage II matching and porting. I'm using a fuel mix at about 96 calculated octane with the additive. I requested the additional information on the engine build and tuning today from the builder. The balancer is marked at 6 BTC, 34 degrees and 40 degrees. Have not touched or moved the timing as the engine was a custom stroker, pan to carburetor / water pump to aluminum flywheel.

Don
gt350bp