SAAC Forum

Not normal.
I would expect too much backlash between pinion and ring gears.
Could be due to crush spacer or loose pinion nut too.

That fella on FB has recently been selling off a large stash. (He is in Canada btw)
He has some really cool stuff, in large amounts.
The prices are all extremely high.
Now that doesn't bother me at all, I figure if a person wants it, so be it.

His descriptions seem (trying to find word) "gimmicky" and some details border on falsehood.

Fun stuff to look at nonetheless

On an unrelated note.... If you do go Paxton and do not use these, I literally have a dozen customers nagging me about these setups and frankly, I don't find enough of them.
Let me know and I'd be happy to put you in touch with them.

Quote from: TA Coupe on February 10, 2022, 06:32:54 PM
Drew, I think the question for him should be proximately how much would you charge to make that system work correctly because I doubt he is looking for anything concourse.

        Roy

Eh. I don't really advertise like that.
People know who I am, if that was the question, I assume he'd have messaged me privately. I gave the price above as what the going rate seems to be.
$900 for that setup is smoking. I'd buy 25 of those setups tomorrow for $900 each.

Great score!  They run really well. If those are in working order, I'd just run them.


To the next question. Run these or a Paxton. Honestly, two separate worlds. The real magic of these 3x2 setups are the visual appeal, and oddly enough the economy and torque benefits. I'd prefer three tiny 2v carbs over a single 750 anyday.
My carb mentor drove and still drives a 289 3x2 setup in his daily driver 64 Ranchero just for these reasons.

Stampings are weird and bowls don't look correct. Examine very closely.

Current Value?
$1500-$2000 IF all correct.

Sadly 3x2 parts like correct bowls are very hard to find, so act accordingly.

I have seen many 66-67 sets, but they get snapped up instantly by Shelby folks.
Many of the people I have restored carbs for have several sets, hence the apparent shortage.

Don't believe I did the carb for 002 unless they didn't tell me what it went on (that happens a lot).
I did do 003 and that was good fun.

Anyway, happy to teach stuff like plating. Even started a fb group so us hobby guys can share.
Castings are a LOT of trial and error tho. It really can't be taught, so mich goes by "feel" if that makes sense.
Even if I told you my process step by step it'd still take forever to get it even decent.


Picture of a Boss carb I did last time I was home. It's really neat to keep the cars and parts alive 50-60 years later.

(Also not an advertisement, I do this for fun)

Quote from: poboy427 on January 12, 2022, 06:49:42 PM
Drew was chosen to do the Holley carb on 5R002. That bout says it all.

Ray

Was my pleasure to do 003.

My most recent coatings (within the last 1-2 years) are very durable.
I spent a lot of time trying to destroy them.

A lot has to do with the original casting quality.
Zamac3 is very porous, so impurities get in and make it harder to take a fresh coat.
Corrosion also makes it harder to get a proper coating.  I mean, these are 50-60 years old.

If you are ruining the coatings in the ultrasonic, you need to research better cleaners. I cannot suggest one in the EU, but milder is better.

If there was an "easy" way to do this properly, everyone would be doing it.

I live in Georgia US.
I do ship all around the world. Most recently DHL has provided very good reliable service, tho expensive.

I tried to attach photos, but I'm in the south atlantic with weak cell service. My AirFuelSpark fb page has lotsa photos of the work done.

To redo the hardware you need to make a zinc plating bath.
Involves doing the electroplating and passivating in a chromate.
To do a holley hardware properly you need four different chromates.

I would suggest using Acid Chloride zinc bath. It's more difficult but much safer than cyanide based solutions.

My bath consists of Zinc, ammonia, and potassium chloride. You'll need to also add makeup and maintenance brighteners. Typically these are best attained from large suppliers, but you can buy from Gateros in small batches (based in the UK).

A decent plating station will take up 2x3 meters of shop space and cost roughly $2-3,000 to makeup. Maintenance doesn't cost as much, but if you intend to keep the same solution you'll need to regularly adjust ph, titrate for chlorides and titrate for zinc content.

Best book is "Zinc Plating" by Herb Geduld... you can normally find a copy for $200-$300.

Lemme know if you need recipes for this, but you'll have to attain your own brighteners.

Drew

Sure. Just start doing it.
It took me 200-300 carbs to get decent.
By carb 850 I really had it consistently good.

Strip old coatings.
I do this with 90C lye/tsp mixture. Be aware, too long will destroy the casting.
Use an mild acid to activate and neutralize the bases. Be aware, too long will destroy the castings.
Dip in a standard yellow chromate. Time and temp are depending on your chromate recipe.

You can use the old publicly available Chronak process. Or buy a ready made one.
Tho to be honest, if you are in EU likely hex chromates are probably not attainable.

You can also make your own yellow for castings. This works better than Chronak process.
200mg sodium dichromate, 200ml sulfuric
Be aware this will heat up to 160C nearly instantly and is incredibly dangerous, kinda eats unexposed flesh. .
Rinse chromate crystals with nitric while vacuum filtering.
This makes chromic acid.  Be aware it is a powerful oxidizer, so best to do with with sealed containers and a fume hood.
Use that chromic acid and find a ratio with nitric and sulfuric that works well for you.
Your brown/grey/yellow/iridescent looks depend upon your chromic to sulphate ratio, so experiment.
Also be aware that there is an expensive and involved process to dispose of hex chromates... basically you need to turn them to the trivalent state etc.
Took me 3-4 years a s probably $12,000 to get my setup working well.

The best chromate book is by Biestek, I bought a copy in Frankfurt actually.

Good luck!

Awesome story.

I do a bit of pro bono work as well. Never tell them, just refuse payment.
It's always worth it.

Many people's contributions to the hobby are payment enough.

Eh.
You guys are thinking way too much about this whole thing.
There is an ass for every seat.

Me?  I'm into cars because I just like machinery. I'm not overly fond of wires, so no interest.
I'm sure there is some dude out there with $200k who is just dying to buy this thing.

I view them the same way as the guy that buys fuel injection for a big FE stroker....

I'm building one like that for a customer. Lemans bowls, except they are going to be split dominators.

I love all the old multicarb setups. Wish I could keep all of them but I like finding a home for them.

Great pics from all (even you Doug)
Thanks for sharing, love seeing these.