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Messages - Drew Pojedinec

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136
Services Offered / Re: List 3259 I recently did for a member here
« on: February 08, 2020, 01:41:16 PM »
Amazingly enough, there were only three pieces I could not save.
Choke lever, choke fast idle plate, and the choke idle cam. Everything else was from the original carb.


Sadly, I could not get the carb up to my normal standard. I also suspect the chromate will not last as long on the castings as they were severely contaminated.
What this means is that over time the castings will become greyer.

Also amazingly enough, when I tested the carb out, everything ran perfectly (which I honestly had my doubts about)
Proof of these being the same part:

137
Services Offered / Re: List 3259 I recently did for a member here
« on: February 08, 2020, 01:37:09 PM »
It took nearly a day to get it all apart as the fire fighting water had seized everything.
Took a good bit of heat and persistence to get the original throttle and choke shafts out.


I had to run the carb through my cleaning process 3-4 times before I could even begin to think about rechromating it.

138
Services Offered / List 3259 I recently did for a member here
« on: February 08, 2020, 01:34:19 PM »
Just that. I normally donít post a lot here, certainly not advertisement stuff as Iím normally too busy to bother with ďdrumming up work.Ē
Iím just really proud of this project.

A member here sent me a 3259 which had been in a garage fire.
Honestly when I first got it, I was unsure there would be much I could do for it.

Pictures below

139
The Lounge / Re: Any good Holley Carburetor rebuiders on here?
« on: February 08, 2020, 01:27:24 PM »
Looks great, Michael! And, man - youíre super organized with the drawers in the background. Iím feeling quite ďShade TreeĒ right now. 😉

That is because the picture is from my shop where I probably have 100,000 holley pieces in 10 of those bins.
Btw, the bins are an akro mills product, best deal is via Zoro, $50 each and free shipping. Very nice way to organize. Better picture with the intake setups.

140
The Lounge / Re: Ethanol and old carbs
« on: February 08, 2020, 10:45:47 AM »
Iíve never had an issue.
I only own two cars, one is a 63 Galaxie.
The other is my daily driver, a 76 F100 with a 390 engine.

I fire the truck up, drive to the airport. Park it in the lot there for 28 days.
When I come back, I hook up the battery, crank the engine for ten seconds. Work the accelerator pump, and start the engine. It idles for 30 seconds and I drive it 70 miles home to the airport.
This is arguably the worst scenario for a carbureted engine.

I have run E10, and have done this routine now for 12 years. I have yet to have a fuel related issue.

141
The Lounge / Re: Any good Holley Carburetor rebuiders on here?
« on: February 08, 2020, 09:40:17 AM »
Lol, Chris, as a policy I do not talk badly about any other builder.
We are all human and overlook things.

Btw, when doing inventory last week I found a GTI choke cap. If you have not found a replacement elsewhere, drop me a line and Iíll send it to you when I get home in March.

142
The Lounge / Re: Any good Holley Carburetor rebuiders on here?
« on: February 08, 2020, 09:24:31 AM »
Just pm me here. If you prefer text or email let me know via pm and we will go like that.
I work 28/28 offshore and when I get home I do about 30 restorations.... so as nice as phone calls are, I like having a text format to refer to for our conversation. Helps me stay organized 😀

143
The Lounge / Re: Any good Holley Carburetor rebuiders on here?
« on: February 08, 2020, 08:14:03 AM »
That Carter unit has caused a lot of drama for folks. Some of them donít self regulate all that well.

As far as carburetor rebuilders,
Willyís is indeed an awesome fella.
BLP is as well.
There are many rebuilders out there who can do a very good job.
For generic or race carbs I would trust a dozen builders out there.

For restoring work where you save the original parts at all cost, a restorer becomes more important.
Joe Bunetic and I do both do restorations.
Mr Joe has been restoring carbs as long as Iíve been alive. The only difference I have seen in our end Result is testing them. Half the time you probably donít need to, but I hate finding the occasional problem child.


144
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Re-restoring SFM5S003
« on: November 26, 2019, 02:13:35 PM »
I give you and all involved a ton of credit, doing it right is an insane amount of work.
Hope the rest goes well without too many snags.

145
The Lounge / Re: Attention: Scammers on this website
« on: October 11, 2019, 12:56:09 PM »
Somewhat in this vain, one of my customers is the head of fraud at Paypal.
He is a car nut like the rest of us, he takes scammers very seriously, if you ever have a problem with someone ripping you off, even if it was paid via "friends and family" let me know and I will put you in contact with him.
You'll need your transaction number, etc.

Good dude.

146
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Marking your HiPo Harmonic Damper
« on: September 18, 2019, 11:08:08 AM »
Also, just to clarify, would these adjustments apply equally to an FE or 289/302? And for flat tappet as well as solid rollers?

Not Doug, but clearance is clearance.
You can always recheck hot to see how much it has changed if curious. Valve lash can be a tuning tool as well (although a fairly minor one)

Gets real interesting setting up an aluminum block, aluminum head engine 😂

147
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Marking your HiPo Harmonic Damper
« on: September 18, 2019, 10:08:18 AM »
I always set cold for the reasons you mention.
At work I regularly do valve adjustments on 16 cylinder two stroke industrial engines, it would be impossible to have all of them evenly warm as it often takes several hours. Many engines do not have hot settings due to this.

I was not telling the original poster he was wrong, simply providing an alternative method that I think is better.
As far as precision, professional methods yield professional results.


148
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Marking your HiPo Harmonic Damper
« on: September 17, 2019, 11:35:18 AM »
I'm old but I'm always willing to learn.  Please explain why EOIC is better than adjusting when both E and I are fully closed at TDC.

Look at this diagram:
https://images.app.goo.gl/ZBgzqPABU2vHypLMA

You are trying to set via tdc when the lifters are between the lobes. This is fine for a very mild stock engine. With performance cam separation angle, overlap, and more duration make it to where the lifter edge can reduce clearance for either valve at tdc.
By setting via EOIC you are setting on he base circle instead of the other end, thus assuring lifter is fully down.
Sure it is harder to rotate the engine so many times, but doing one valve in order makes it very hard to miss one.

149
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Marking your HiPo Harmonic Damper
« on: September 17, 2019, 02:26:43 AM »
I second EOIC that's how I was taught and my turd still runs.

It works so well because it assures the cam being on the base of the lobe. With a performance cam, TDC method is imperfect.
The only time I use TDC is when a fresh engine needs a basic valve setting prior to cam break in. In that scenario, perfect setting is less important than keeping the break in lube from wiping off.
After cam break in, reset via EOIC.

Either way, I applaud your creativity. Good luck, and thanks for sharing.

150
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Marking your HiPo Harmonic Damper
« on: September 16, 2019, 04:33:13 PM »
Or set via EOIC (my preference, as it is foolproof)
Or get some timing tape, would be a little more accurate as your method allows for stacking of imperfect measurements.

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