SAAC Forum

Quote from: shelbydoug on October 13, 2021, 05:15:59 PM
What is the original finish on them? Is it yellow cad?

The finish is whatever I feel like using.
Factory was zinc plated and yellow hex chromate. This is also what I use.

I have a handful of Medium riser linkage setups.
Lemme get home and inventory.

That is likely a low riser bellcrank. It does not have a return spring provision as the original used the spring elsewhere.

Quote from: gt350hr on August 30, 2021, 11:28:24 AM
     I bought a package of ten exact reproductions off of epay. I don't have a link as it was months ago when I bought them. The orange parts in kits are for accelerator pump "one way valves" on specific float bowls.

Mile Bolduc sells them on ebay. I buy a handful every once in awhile.

If Trackrat passes, I'll buy it.

Alternate take....
Make sure distributor springs aren't too light.
I've heard detonation that sounds like a body rattle.

Good luck

If someone wants to learn how, I'm happy to share info.  Even better, I have a FB group I started called "Hobby Zinc Plating and Metal Finishing."
900 people strong, lot of good info for beginners.

Quote from: shelbydoug on August 25, 2021, 08:02:55 AM
Actually if you look at his Facebook page, Drew is zinc dicromate plating, but only for those Holley parts.

Then again, by the time he gets back from Holland, he's going to be years behind on the Holley's already, so don't even ask!

I used to try to help folks out by doing small batch plating. Just too busy honestly.
Left home July05, left Rotterdam July21, arrived at jobsite in south atlantic August12, will be here till end of October.  Have 125 carb requests, so unless you want to show up and do the plating yourself, I doubt I could get to it.

Drew

I run expensive ($60) liquid filled gauges. They have a vent you can lift to relieve pressure.
Pretty much the only way to get a perfect reading at temp.

I think AED brand gauge, but many industrial gauges work fine.

Common the check needle get stuck as mentioned above.
Will create the exact symptom.

I have to drop some oil on the needle during assembly or the cleaned parts like to flash rust and get stuck.

Procedure:
-Remove carb
-remove pump nozzle
-try to use a small pointy object like a scribe or small screwdriver to wiggle check needle back and forth.
-try to push fuel through (use care as needle can shoot out)
-spray carb cleaner in nozzle hole, try again to dislodge
-if that doesn't work, remove bowl and metering block. Use air to dislodge
-if that doesn't work, pack grease into pump channel and force a pin gauge or back of a drill into hole
-if that doesn't work, drill check needle, if bit is sharp it should spin out.

The last two options really stink btw.

I'm a little late to respond here...

Green loctite #290 is a wicking loctite that sets up anerobically. It works well in a situation where you have everything already installed. (Brazing is ideal as Mr Dan suggests)

Quote from: Rickmustang on August 04, 2021, 06:17:24 AM
Thanks Randy!

Drew, I don't think they are NpT threads....

The dozen or so c6s I've rebuilt were npt. Maybe Shelby cars used something different?
My Galaxie and F100 both run full roller c6s I built. Both run AN hose, I used 1/8npt x -6 with no issue.

Check the one you get from Randy, curious about it.
Thanks

Ok, so I got bored offshore and looked through a few supplier catalogs for hydraulics.

Cheapest and easiest for this assuming 1/8npt to 5/16 tubing:

Straight fitting:
https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/3202-05-02-516-inverted-flare-x-18-nptf-male-pipe.html

90:
https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/3402-05-02-516-inverted-flare-x-18-nptf-male-90.html

Never seen an o ring seal, should be 1/8npt

Another thought.
If running vac advance...
At your idle speed, ported vac should be in action. Assure vac advance arm is still connected. I have seen E clip fall off with resulting arm getting disconnected. This could drop your idle speed and make it run badly, could also explain intake pop.
Recheck initial timing