SAAC Forum

great price for that white one if all correct!

I thought I would provide details on the removal and installation of the stainless surround and the bottom frame when replacing your door glass. This would have been a big help to me so here you go! If you are going to polish the stainless leave it in the old window as the glass will provide the needed rigidity.

Removal
1.   Heat the stainless and frame with a heat gun get it good and hot and let it sit for about 10 mins to soften the glass setting tape
2.   Remove the two small Phillips screws CAREFULLY from the vertical run. You do not want to strip them
3.   Get a hardwood 1x1 block and begin tapping the stainless away from the glass. Do this universally around the glass. You do no want edge to lift faster or higher than the other as you can separate the corner joint. Also tap the vertical lower edge of the stainless to lift it up and off not just horizontally.
4.   Heat some more if not moving and be patient with the stainless removal process. Once off go to the lower frame. Same process but you can be more aggressive.

Installation
Order your glass setting tape. I used 1/16 x 1.5" tape. Worked perfect.
1.   Make sure the glass edges are clean.
2.   Start with stainless edge first
3.   Cut you tape to length. Fold in half.
4.   Snuggly fit tape (which is not sticky) over the glass edge. Hold in place with black electrical tape pieces. I used 3 one in the middle and another at each end. The tape is used perpendicular to the window setting tape not parallel.
5.   Carefully cut the corner so the tape lays flat nice 90 degree +/-. No bumps allowed.
6.   Wipe the window setting tape with kerosene or lamp oil to activate it and makes it lubricated
7.   Using a rubber mallet tape the stainless on. Start with the vertical side and get the corner secured first. I also used long wood clamps to slowly press the horizonal run in place.
8.   Ensure the stainless is firmly against the glass and then trim excess (both tapes) with a razor.
9.   Now prepare the horizontal lower frame for installation
10.   The left side of the frame will slide up the stainless channel. Therefore, I sanded the left leading edge to remove rust or any debris and lubricated it with the kerosene.
11.   Cut your setting tape length and fold in half as described above. Again firmly drape over the glass and hold in pace with black electrical tape. 3 vertical pieces as above.
12.   Now begin to slide the frame up the stainless channel and look to align the frame with the screw holes.
13.   As you get close to alignment wipe the setting tape with kerosene.
14.   Put a punch through the stainless screw holes and into the frame screw holes.
15.   Tape frame onto glass and set firmly. Check the punch it should be perfectly aligned to accept the screws. If not you have more tapping to do.
16.   Install screws and using your mallet tap all edges until you are certain the frame and stainless have bottomed out on the glass.
17.   Using razor blade remove the electrical tape strips. You won't have any setting tape excess for the frame as the 1.5" fits perfectly.
18.    Done   

good idea 

in the end it went in easy. I too used the "rods" cut from old starter bolts i believe. But i bet i spent 25% of time backing out the top drivers side rod. I thought i made sure they could be removed by hand but i guess not despite putting them in by hand. Needle nose vice grips were required to get it started with tiny turns and then i did it by hand but that vice grip action which i bet totaled less than 5 turns took forever! Oh and the tranny plug didn't work that great but better than nothing. Wished i had a real drive shaft slip end. Anyway thanks all!

Oh at 58 yrs that is my last on my back tranny job. No mas!

thanks for the insight... Makes sense to protect the stainless.

thanks.. i could not imagine it being necessary for a factory set up.

i was with you till i read this "I usually put several layers of tape across the stainless edge and use a dead blow hammer with a block of wood to knock it over the glass" can you elaborate please. thanks

gotcha thanks

About to put my 4 speed back in... I've become aware of the need to align to the bellhousing/tranny to the crank. Is this really necessary? i cant believe they did that level of precision at the factory.. thoughts?

got it.. then trim to fit? only comes in1.5" width...

using ruler i see 1/8 top and bottom, caliper says 13/64 for both top and bottom. I'm simply measuring the setting tape that was used previously..... Im not seeing a difference between the top/bottom. thoughts?

in the end i ended up sanding the glass down to the depth of the scratches and then went from there. 320, 800, 1000,1200,1500,2000, and then polish. Used an orbital sander. Took many hours but looks perfect.

thanks

i removed the bolts to the cover and two of them are much longer than the others. Is there a specific spot for them? perhaps at one end?

thanks i already have them ready!!!!!!