SAAC Forum

Because soccer moms love silver.

Apparently that many question marks results in a smiley which was not my intent.

Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 18, 2024, 04:09:13 PM
Not Drew but from that one angle and one picture it appears to be a nice looking carburetor done with good workmanship. From a historical stand point however it looks like the restorer did all the hardware zinc dichromate regardless of if it was originally clear zinc or not. That covers quite a few different things. The idle mixture screw covers are missing and no ink stamps that are seen from this angle originally are present.

Kinda weird to have the dash pot bracket installed with no dash pot???

Quote from: shelbydoug on February 17, 2024, 02:55:26 PM
All I can do is speak of my experience.

As I said, I may be wrong. You can verify that with my wife. She will tell you that I am always wrong.

My experience is that those readings are too high. Proceed as you will.


...oh...it isn't the static compression ratio, it is the cam timing. You blow the useless compression out through the cam timing.

I think you are clueless. FE cold cranking numbers I am familiar with - they vary greatly depending on camshaft and engine condition - but those numbers are typical. If you are saying otherwise you simply have no experience.

Quote from: Jakobs67gt500 on February 17, 2024, 07:38:26 AM
Hi - good morning

I have pull my 67gt500 engine out to change crankshaft bearings.

We did a compression test to see if any work was required further up.
The result attached, between 175 and 210.
Does this look ok or is work required?

Any input is much appreciated.

Best regards
Jakob

Looks like the RH cylinder head could benefit from a valve job. I would pull both heads and do them. Cold cranking pressure test is not the same as calculating compression ratio. Neither one has anything to do with bearings.

Tim's explanation is correct. The hole is existing and present on cars that do not have tilt away. Like Tim says - make sure the surfaces are clean and free from paint because it needs to make an electrical ground there.

Dead Nuts On and Rock Auto used to have them but they both no longer carry any. I don't know of any other source.

The seal P/N I used is SKU 14968.

https://www.motion.com/products/sku/01298406

The bearing (for a 28 or 31 spline axle) should be 1.380" ID because the axle OD is that number. The wheel bearing OD is 2.840" as is the axle ID. The seal sleeve is 1.510" OD and 1.380" ID.

Bearing and retainer WBRW207CCRA :
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1970,mustang,7.0l+428cid+v8,1440951,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672

Along with the axle bearing there is also an axle bearing retainer and a seal sleeve. So three parts are pressed on each axle - four if you count the bearing retainer plate.

Seal Sleeve for 31 Spline axles:
https://www.mustangsetc.com/9-31-spline-rear-axle-seal-sleeve/

My MPC copy states the introduction date of "2-15-1968 the casting number was changed to C6OA-6394-D".

The build sheet is from a 1968 GT500, not a 1967......

A 3/32" hole on the backside lets you drive them out with a punch. Then put sealant on the new ones after crinkle black paint.

Quote from: 6s1640 on January 30, 2024, 11:36:30 PM
Last, here is an example of down slope with a 1968 GT-E Cougar.  Both cars appears to be well restored and the same color cardinal red.  The one that sold in 2024 was an XR7 with leather interior and the other in 2011 was standard.  They both sold exactly the same,  $181,500 with fees.  Who got the better buy?  Thirteen years difference.  The 2024 sale in 2011 dollars is $135,708.  The 2024 GT-E Cougar was a better buy and with more options.  (Yes, only one example, but does illustrate the trend.)
Cory

I agree with your conclusion that the recent one was a better deal but for different reasons. The first example (and I know both cars well) was a home run for the seller. The market had peaked, he was able to save the original numbers matching side oiler through a minor miracle and some very good contractors. The buyer had Bob Perkins at his side and was well heeled, and he had competition from an equally well heeled individual. The car was the first restoration by a pretty good amateur.

The latest one was far better both in the car that they started with, the options, and the restorer. The finished product was far better. We know more today than we did in 2012. There were fewer bidders in the room, no one hired Bob, and the results are what they are. It's hard to say if there was a trend involved when so few cars change hands.

Quote from: Sean S on January 29, 2024, 12:56:28 AM
I'm looking for a brake master cylinder for a 1990 Autocraft Cobra. please tell me.[/img]

This was posted above - seems like a very common part available basically anywhere and everywhere.

"Brake master cylinder: ( 2 versions-7/8"or 13/16" bore) **   1972-76 MKI Ford Granada   Girling part # G 64679152Q123 X, original Girling part # 64066627, new reference # PMH117 **part # stamped on the brake master cylinder"

Seems like a 413 Chrysler may be underpowered a bit. I would like to see a Cummins 6 cylinder turbodiesel instead.