SAAC Forum

Just a little update.Body guys have had the car 8 months now, expect to be finished by Christmas.The fibreglass needed a lot of work, some of the gelcoat was shot but all saved and back in good shape now.

My chrome guy rang today and is prepping the front bumber for rechrome.He said the bumper has a 1/4" slight dip in the middle vs ends so it's not dead flat from side to side ie it has a very slight V when looked at head on, he can make it dead straight if I want but I'm not sure if it's meant to have that little dip or not?

Quote from: Bill on June 07, 2021, 08:39:54 AM
That is a check from Shelby to Toller to cover the warranty work.

Ahh OK I get it now, thanks Bill.

My "subject title" should have been better worded, I'm not making any claim it came that way new. It may have, or the 69 wheels may have gone on in the 6 weeks or so between car purchase date and the recall date under U-01, I guess I will most likely never know.
Thanks Bob, I think it's pretty cool too and as I'm not building the car right now for show or concours, I figure I have some wriggle room and I like the idea of keeping the car in some respects at least, the way it spent most of it's life.
I've attached a another document that relates to the recall, same $ amount and same "invoice" number as the the recall document so it matches up but what is this?
Is it Shelby sending money to Toller motors or Toller motors sending money to Shelby?
Thank all.

Apologies, think I attached wrong file type, hopefully works this time🙂.

The attached paperwork shows 4159 was purchased new 31.3.69 and was then part of the U-01(1969 Shelby wheels))wheel recall campaign, date of recall/wheel replacement shows as 5.6.69, so it seems 4159 likely left the dealer with 69 rims but who knows for sure.
I've read through another thread on this forum with general consensus mostly that the U-01 recall was due to the glue holding the steel rim to the alloy center letting go, but there was also some discussion that it was to do with the lug nuts coming loose.
Interesting thing about my wheels is that while 4159 was part of the U-01 recall campaign the wheels on it are of the glued, not riveted type.
I've attached a pic which shows they are dated 5/68, so I'm curious if anyone else has any 69 wheels replaced under the U-01 recall that were not riveted.
Anyway, that's just for interest and maybe something dodgy went on with 4159's wheel recall.

After all that, I do have a question....Whilst my original wheels appear sound they are 53yrs old, glued style and the chrome has some imperfections......so....I'm putting my original wheels on the shelf and replacing them with 69 Paradise wheels(bit of a wait but that's OK), would the 15x 8" rim(rather than 15 x 7") present any problems?
Will 15x8 all around fit OK or should I go 15x7 front and 15x8rear?

The obvious question(so I will answer in advance) is why not take the opportunity to put 68 10 spokes on, or 68 original rims if I could find them...     
Reason is, I can't warm to the 10 spokes, love the look of the 69 wheels on my car and it seems that's the way it came so I'm keeping it that way. And it's an easy switch out for any future owners that may want to, not that I have any intention to sell...ever.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Geoff 

Dropping off at the chrome shop, this will run about $6k for everything you see inc bumper resto pre chrome, be interested how that compares with the USA?

Clutch fan arrived today from Chris Brown, he is an absolute gentleman highly recommend and the clutch fan is very awesome.
Thanks for helping with advice everyone.

Hopefully this may help.

Perfect, exactly what I needed, thanks for the help Bob much appreciated!

I'm ordering new power steering hoses from blue dot specialties and thanks to Pete's Coralsnake website(thank you Pete) it's simple to match up the part numbers there with the part numbers on the blue dot website....... except for hose C8ZA-3A719-A that is. This hose does not have armor and is a different length to the 67 and 69 hose. Blue dot website advises to use C7ZX 3A 719 A for a KR with oil cooler but while this hose does not have armor I think it may be for the small block. Blue dot(by email) advised to use C9ZA 3A 719-A but this is wrong date code and has armor(which this hose for a KR should not).
I may have some of this wrong, any advice or direction on how best to approach this to end up with the most correct outcome is much appreciated, thanks in advance.     

Quote from: TedS on April 25, 2021, 08:07:46 AM
If this helps.
I have KR #3562, Auto with AC, late June build.
Fan is C80E-B
Clutch is C80E-C

Ted

Thank you.

Quote from: TLea on April 26, 2021, 07:45:10 PM

Quote from: Jack4159 on April 25, 2021, 05:57:04 AM
Thanks everyone, appreciate the info.In a rare moment of clarity I thought to check my build sheet.Under fan, it has C8OE-B.Is that for the fan, the fan clutch, or are they considered one unit?
Thanks for your contact details Chris I will def get in touch.

Fan blade.

It does help thank you.

Thanks everyone, appreciate the info.In a rare moment of clarity I thought to check my build sheet.Under fan, it has C8OE-B.Is that for the fan, the fan clutch, or are they considered one unit?
Thanks for your contact details Chris I will def get in touch.

My fan clutch is out of the car and not feeling very smooth when you turn it by hand.
I was kindly referred to Chris Brown by Don(thank you Don) for a replacement and whilst he has some fan clutches  my fan clutch is marked E-C8OE-A, which I believe is correct for a KR with AC, well at least for a 68 cobra jet with AC and Chris doesn't have this version listed. No email address on his website so I may have to stay up late and call, just like in the good old days, as I'm in Australia.
I have found clutches designated B and C but not A, is there anyone who rebuilds these? Or any leads on where I might be able to get the A version? Or worst case, will the B or C work OK?
Thanks in advance, the help provided selflessly on this site by so relatively few to so many is a great thing.
Geoff