SAAC Forum

Quote from: CharlesTurner on July 26, 2022, 11:54:54 AM
Even though not going for concours, just by restoring original parts, it usually takes minimal extra effort to do them the correct finish.

Do the rear wheel wells have sound deadener?

Hi Charles,
Yes they do but they screwed it up a bit. I have pics of it as it was but I guess kaka happens and I have a business to run so was busy and left them to it, could have been worse, could have been better.
My approach is to get this car great not perfect, so I can get my foot to the the floor before I pop my clogs.

No idea why my pics are coming out upside down, I guess it's the only downside of being an Aussie.

Quote from: J_Speegle on July 27, 2022, 03:15:45 PM

Quote from: corbins on July 27, 2022, 07:51:58 AM
Maybe a stupid question, but why were the interior floorpans not repainted back green ??

Maybe they made that choice since those areas will not be seen normally once the car is assembled. Plus painters are often more comfortable about controlling/limiting overspray and the like

Just one possibility that hopefully was not copied under the car

Thank you Jeff, you are a gentleman and absolutely correct, it was not copied under the car.
Doing my best and frankly it's tough being in Australia, in Western Australia(3000 miles from Sydney) and in a remote part of Western Australia 200 miles from a city. We don't have mustang experts let alone Shelby. Anyway, doing my best and having a crack, the car will be nice.

Quote from: TA Coupe on July 26, 2022, 02:30:05 PM
Why are you using rusty old brake hardware when new stuff is under $10?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1968,mustang,7.0l+428cid+v8,1132366,brake+&+wheel+hub,drum+brake+hardware+kit,1752

        Roy

because I got 2 beers for that $10- I saved....but really, the parts were in good shape completely functional and maybe even were made in the USA, replacements parts would remain unseen and shiny but maybe would come out of China. Also being in Australia means 2-6 weeks freight time at best, I have purchased 100's of parts and cost of part is doubled by freight, tripled with exchange rate, not relevant for $10- or an individual item but on $30k of parts comes into the overall approach, not so much for cost but just practicality from overseas and getting the car back together in a timely way.

Thanks for your input everyone, always helpful and appreciated.

nup there is no tag

rest of pics, remember I'm  not going for concours just a quality resto

Finally.....after all that pulling apart, endless research, blown budget and skinned knuckles, starting to put 4159 back together and it feels good, it will all be worth it in the end. The guy under the car isn't me that's my helper mate.

I doubt that it is the original and it needs some work so thinking I may as well buy a new "york style" one. I've read what I can find on the forum and apparently the original castings have some differences to the replacements so wondering what I have. Likely it's not original but would hate to not use it if it is....can anyone tell from these pics?
Thank you.   

Thanks fellas.
Happily for me my column is in excellent shape so hopefully will be no need to send it away(unless I break it!).
I will report in on a planned home made extractor tool in due course....if it works.

Finally, a heads up(perhaps I'm the only one who didn't know this but there may be someone else out there.)
The tilt column locking pawl pins drift out of place over time and once this happens it is a matter of time before your tilt column chews itself to bits.
There is a video about this over at west coast classic cougar, I didn't think too much of it until I pulled mine to bits and both my pins were out of place exactly as described in the vid, luckily I caught it in time.
There is a solution being new pins with circlips on each end to hold them securely in place.

So it's all apart, just can't get the last 2 "housing" bits apart, which I need to do to replace the rear bearing.
There are internally threaded pins/screws that hold the 2 housing pieces together and I'm unsure if a special tool is required to wind into the internal thread on the pins, or if you can just use a correct size/threaded screw inserted into the pin and then pull it out, if they aren't in too tight.
That is a poor description I'm sorry but I think anyone who has done this and can help will know what I mean.
Pics show the pins with a hole in the centre, which is threaded.
Thanks as always for any advice.

I can only tell you what I paid which was $600- per rim for 7" and $625- for 8 inch plus $100- per center cap.
Not sure if prices are still the same, also not sure about restoration costs re existing wheels as I preferred to keep my existing wheels intact so never explored that route.

Success 

Thought maybe these pics might help someone at some stage, an original 69 rim off my KR(that's a whole nother story, I'm not saying they are original to the KR though it seems "likely" the car left the dealership with them on......just saying they are original 69's)with new rim from paradise wheels adjacent. I waited a year for these and am very happy with them for my non concours KR.
Just thought these pics may help someone with a 69 thinking about new wheels, now or down the track a bit.

Thanks gents great info and much appreciated, where would we be without the knowledgeable and helpful enthusiasts here.
I tried the drift today but alas it appears well stuck, have given it the wd-40 breakfree treatment will leave overnight and attack again tomorrow.
If still no joy I will be out with the Metabo hammer/chisel and use Bob's technique but will leave this till last as I would prefer to avoid cutting up a good chisel bit for what will be a one off for me, great option to have in need though.
Thanks again, will let you know how I get on.