SAAC Forum

Yes, AMK offers a kit specific to the 1967 Shelby 428 and it is different than the other FE cars.. The intake is absolutely Shelby specific for 1967 as well as the carburetor studs and nuts, valve cover bolts, basket cover in the back that aren't on standard FE cars.

Quote from: JWH on August 05, 2020, 05:58:17 PM
Heater Hoses - It seems like a common routing for the heater hoses is to have them run right alongside or right over the top of the fuel log. I have tied the heater hoses to the Export Brace with black zip ties to lift the hoses up away from the fuel log as much as possible.

A solution on the spacers between the fuel log and the intake -- I removed the two intake manifold bolts that secure the fuel log and installed studs. I tightened the studs using the "double nut" method.  I then installed a spacer, the fuel log and a nut to secure. As Bob pointed out, if you try longer intake manifold bolts, they do not clear the intake manifold where the carbs sit and will not install.

Another step that is admittedly drastic is to install a louvered hood. I have no scientific data, but seems those louvers would really help get hot air out of the engine compartment.

The louvered hood would be ideal. I presumed the hood scoop would help with keeping the heat out from under the hood. There seems to be cavitation at the firewall.
The double nut method would still allow heat transfer to the fuel log.  I used the spacer between the ear of the fuel log and intake and on the top between the bolt and washer and the ear of the log. The bolts will also transfer heat if not insulated from the log.
I started off with the simple changes and kept looking for other ways to "beat the heat".  I have no hard-start issues anymore or percolation.
I was just posting the newest addition to combat vapor lock.  The pump insulator.
An insulated fuel supply and carburetors goes a long way in the battle.

There's noting special about the mounting brackets on a 500. The reservoir is the truck reservoir because of the direction the return line exits because of the oil cooler. The pulley for the non-air cars is the 7AB or 7AC for AC cars.

Exactly what I did, Tony. I didn't want it to be too obvious. The fuel pump line under the power steering has a slide on insulation as well as as about a food that runs next to the power steering pump. The 427 canister filter doesn't seem to create an issue.

They get caught manufacturing numbers and of course the more recent debunking of the geological timelines. Psuedo-science and theories that are unsupportable will not be done away with when it has everything to do with taxation and control of mankind.

I love the Time Magazine Cover from 1977. If you lived in the north east I'm sure you remember the record snowfalls and the complete shutdown in many areas.
Climate cycles always have been. They are not man-made but real science shows they correlate with sun activity.

I am running the TC 1" lower springs and I have the Arning Drop. The car feels much more stable. However, I did decide to put the spring spacer in with the spring because after they settle it is about 1.5" lower.  You'll be happy with the TC springs. Be sure to replace the spring perches as well.

This is a great thread. I am sure someone here is clenching. Facts and truth are like Kryptonite. Of course you'll be told you are of closed mind.

You don't need to change the Ford Fan. As long as your thermostatic fan clutch is functioning correctly it works perfectly. The C7ZX intake doesn't have a crossover and most performance intake gaskets block them anyway.

Yes, I have phenolic washers on both sides of the fuel log flanges that mount it to the intake as well as about 16" of insulation on the heater hoses where they travel from the firewall down the fuel log.  I added the fuel pump spacer and the insulation on the fuel feed and up the metal pump to carb line just to about the top of the power steering pump.  I was pleased with the outcome.  There is a tremendous amount of heat that gets trapped back in at the firewall around the booster. It actually makes it's way up the column. The engine is within operating temperature 185-195 even in 100 degree weather with a Stewart EMP thermostat.

Quote from: 557 on August 04, 2020, 11:59:50 PM

Quote from: Coralsnake on August 04, 2020, 08:56:47 AM

QuoteWhat if it was originally a red car, or a white car, would the conversation be the same?

I actually know of a red 1968 KR that was changed to Lime Green.

.  Motivation?

Yes. They're stuck in the 60s when people had Avacado appliances..
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Likely, It's something they loved in their youth and want to relive it.

I know many who drive their cars have issues with hard starts when the engine is at operating temperature.
I was working with another member here and suggested not only using the 3/8" Canton Phenolic Carburetor Spacers but insulating the fuel line from the apron to the pump but about a foot and a half on pump to carburetor and the phenolic fuel pump spacer.  The changes lowered the fuel temperature almost 10 degrees. For those who have never seen the pump spacer I posted it below.

Quote from: Chris Thauberger on August 03, 2020, 08:07:12 PM
I'm surprised Keith hasn't chimed in on this yet, if I recall correctly his blue car was originally lime green. Maybe I'm wrong

Yes, My Shelby was Slime Green.  I went Acapulco two stage with about six coats of clear. I am constantly complemented on how beautiful it is. I personally don't care for it and Mr. Gains will tell you it's the most common color that people change. 
It's up to you, but listening to the comments about the Lime Gold by the spectators I don't hear many posiives.
If of course absolute  originality is what you desire, by all means paint it what it was.

You mean the "ghost car" ? This thread was about 65 pages long on the old forum. If you can use a cell phone you can sure the hell post pictures. It's really not that hard.

I really wanted to attend as well this year. Flights loads are increasing and with all the VLAs I had to work. Perhaps next year...

If you're running a long duration cam Ford/Holley information for stock settings is useless. 11 inches at idle causes some interesting issues. I wound venture to guess many here did away with Ford's anemic cams and went to roller valve trains and long duration high lift cams.

Drew's extremely knowledgeable and solved many issues I was suffering.  One of the first issues brought to light was the issue so many were having with the Carter Fuel Pumps that were rated at 6 PSI that were actually closer to 9 PSI. Many were putting fuel pressure regulators on.  No place to hide them on a dual quad car. The needle valve size reduction from the .110 to the .090 window size and setting them to idle primarily from the secondary so the transition slots were not exposed to a point that caused extremely rich idling because of reduced signal from low idle vacuum.

Drew rebuilt my units and even found an issue that would have ran most seasoned carb people in circles.  He doesn't just throw a carb kit in them and make them look pretty.  It's why I will never use anyone else.