SAAC Forum

There is no scotch loks used on the engine feed. They are used for the inboard/outboard lamp extensions and under the dash to feel the oil/amp cluster. The original 1967 Shelby oil pressure sending unit wire was cut and folded over on itself with a piece of tape as well.

I recognize some of those as the wiring for accessory lighting/automatic shifter indicator light leads. If you have the service manual or an Osborne manual you should be able to trace them by color coding relatively easy.

Yes, I agree. You'd have to be all but brain dead to make the mistake. What might be confusing for some is trying to understand that right is passenger and left is driver. If you used the logic based on viewing the front of the engine they'd wind up backward. I haven't seen a set of reproductions, so I don't know if they are marked.

Yes. 1- 1895 bulb in each instrument with a single power lead out scotch lok'd into the black with blue stripe wire .

With the 1" drop it does not require bump steer correction. With the 1.5" drop it will.
You'll also want to use the Global West LOC-2 Excentric lock out kit.
The specifications that have worked best with the power steering on my 1967 Sheby are:
Caster Passenger side: 3 1/2 degrees positive.
Caster Driver side: 3.0 degrees positive
Camber: Driver and Passenger 1/2 degree negative.
Toe in 3/ 32 total.

This is for power steering and I haven't had abnormal tire wear with these settings.

Quote from: shelbydoug on February 25, 2020, 08:34:25 AM

Quote from: Fair67 on February 24, 2020, 10:29:51 PM

Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 24, 2020, 09:14:14 PM
I would think it would be time well spent convincing the owner to use 15 " wheels instead of the 14". If using Magstar style in 14" or 15" you may incounter clearance problem .  I am not aware for a replica 14" magstar wheel. Even if it were a 15" the center portion of the 15" magstar was the same center as your typical 14" wheel. The rim necks down in that area which causes clearance problems sometimes with front calipers like when used with a 68 single piton caliper. I imagine it will cause problems with calipers mounted on the rear also .

Are there similar issues with the ten spokes? I am always open to learn!

I have a '76 Lincoln Versalles rear in my car. It has a disc brake set up that is unique to the Versalles and the Granada.
I'm using 15" 10 spokes with it and it allows 295-50-15 tires to fit with a slightly lowered suspension.

I never tried it with a 14" wheel but it's possible but why would you want to?


The ORIGIGINAL (NOT REPRODUCTION) 10 spokes are much tighter on the brake side of the wheel then most any other wheel I've EVER seen, because of the way they were cast.

The current reproduction 10 spokes are machined on the inside and allow more clearances for bigger brakes.

I had to go to those on the front when I put the big Galaxie/68 trans am brakes on the car. Look to these combinations for your answers.


My original parts are all stored here and go with the car to the future caretaker. The Lincoln rear bolts right into the Mustang rear. Pirches are right there and as a benefit are more heavy duty then the orignal housing as well as being the same width as the 65-6 Mustang rear. That is 2" narrower then the 67-8 housing. That's why those tires fit within the wheel wells.

295 -50 -15?  295s won't fit in a stock fenderwell.

They can indeed be installed upside down and opposite. I have never had an issue with the body/frame side so there was no need to leave them loose. The exception was the installation of headers as an afterthought.