SAAC Forum

Quote from: terlingua11 on February 18, 2021, 05:00:04 PM
Not to get off topic, but I had to laugh when I saw "Nuke GT" as a handle. I was instantly reminded of the 65 with huge flares that ran the plate NUKE GM. I recall it being lime green in the 80's. Any one else remember that or am I delusional......

This one from SAAC 10?

Quote from: jamesfee on February 11, 2021, 02:11:49 PM
I ran my 66 from Jersey, down the Blue Ridge Parkway, to the Tail of the Dragon this past June.

What are you running for wheels and tires and are your A arms lowered?

35 years on Mobil1 15-50 - (page 3 with ZDDP numbers) https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/media/Project/WEP/shared/US/Products/Files/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf?la=en&hash=E90BBCD720E33CC2D008B961B7EC97C2C1C5491F

If your oil is creamy like in the attached picture, it's likely antifreeze in your oil. If that's the case and it were me, I would drop the pan and check the bearings before doing anything else.

Quote from: Greg on January 05, 2021, 10:41:04 AM
Like most of you, I had the pleasure of speaking with and purchasing products from Jim.  He was a treasure trove of knowledge and was willing to share it freely.  I believe he saw the value of sharing this knowledge, not only to help others, but to help the Shelby community.  He will be sorely missed by all.

Well said and I echo that. Although I never met him in person, I could tell by my interactions over the phone and email that Jim was just a great human being at the core who loved what he was doing.

Condolences to his family

Quote from: roddster on January 27, 2020, 10:07:31 AM
Dimples where the wing nut can catch too.

Some pics and measurements from underneath for future reference

Quote from: EdwardGT350 on November 16, 2020, 03:28:00 PM
do the valves leak when car is just sitting or does peddle pres need to be applied?

Mine started leaking while stored last winter. Not sure if cold weather contributed to it or not but it had been rebuilt by Whitepost and in use for 4 years with no leaks.

More details in https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=10452.0

Also after re-reading that thread, I realized some of the o-ring testing I did with DOT 3 and DOT 5 showed only Nitrile o-rings would swell in DOT-3 which now that I think about it, would help seal the end cap and may be why Whitepost and others don't guarantee their valves with DOT 5 fluid.

Quote from: Bob Gaines on November 30, 2020, 12:57:55 PM

Quote from: Kent on November 30, 2020, 02:40:32 AM
storage bag is a 1 minute thing for a mouse, best is a cobra in the car 

Cute post but apparently not written with any hands on knowledge of the Car Jacket product. I on the other hand and many others do have experience . The bags are made of tough fiber plastic similar to what thicker heavy plastic tarps are made of . I used them for years in buildings with rodents and they do not even attempt to eat through.Heard testimonials from many others for the same. If they get in they can do damage regardless of safe guards used on the inside to prevent them from staying. If they can't get in to begin with then they don't have a chance to do damage or die on the inside. https://www.carbag.com/carjacket/

+ 1

I also place a few traditional spring loaded mouse traps with peanut butter around the garage and car. Any mice would go for the peanut butter before thinking about chewing through a car bag. I also set the traps up a week before putting the car in the bag just in case a mouse may already be hiding in the car.

Quote from: Horsman on September 28, 2020, 10:06:31 PM

Quote from: sg66 on September 27, 2020, 02:18:39 PM

Quote from: Horsman on September 27, 2020, 10:43:19 AM
Thanks for the information.

Any ideas why the second install is still leaking oil?

Two guesses:

1. There is a nic in the area of the block that the plug goes into maybe from when a previous one was removed
2. The plugs are out of tolerance. Are they made in the US or are they off-shored where close enough is good enough

Checked for a nic when I installed the first plug, all looked good.

Engine builder provided the plugs both times, I feel they are probably not US made. Any recommendations for a good US product?

I've always had good luck with Dorman. I checked their website and they recommend two cam expansion plugs for a 289 which seems strange:

1. 555-051 which is 2 3/16
2. 555-070 which is 2 1/8

Their site says both are 0.060" oversized

I would go with the 555-051 but you may want to first call their tech support line to see why they list 2 different sizes 1-866-933-2911

Quote from: Horsman on September 27, 2020, 10:43:19 AM
Thanks for the information.

Any ideas why the second install is still leaking oil?

Two guesses:

1. There is a nic in the area of the block that the plug goes into maybe from when a previous one was removed
2. The plugs are out of tolerance. Are they made in the US or are they off-shored where close enough is good enough

Quote from: shelbydoug on September 09, 2020, 10:45:23 PM
I would recommend to leave it alone as is unless you wanted to go to the  1-1/2"

Thanks, I pulled a bearing off the shaft today and there is only 1/4" of smooth surface on each bearing for the shaft to contact so changing that to 1/8" and 3/8" by moving the shaft would not be wise IMO therefore I'll leave it alone

I have the front suspension off a 66 and the PO did the 1" drop back in the 60's or early 70's. The holes in the shock towers are 1" below the factory holes where they should be but are not 1/8" back as shown on 65/66 templates.

How much does this matter?

If the shaft is rotated 1 complete turn, that relocates the arm a little more than 1/8" and although close to bottoming out against the bushing everything still moves freely. A-arm spacing at shaft is 7 7/16" as it should be.

Any thoughts about relocating the A-arm by rotating the shaft 1/2 or a full turn or just leave things as they are?

Trying to avoid welding up holes and re-drilling for 1/8"

Thanks

Looking for a pair not rusted to oblivion in area covered by rubber bushings.

Found, thank you

I've had the defective coil issue and trust you've confirmed they work on another motor?

One other thing to check is if you have any vacuum leaks. I had a rubber nipple blocking off a vacuum port on a Holley once that had dry rotted causing a similar experience. Visually everything appeared ok installed on the car and I only found it when I pulled the carb off to open it up and check inside.

Thanks Randy

I'll leave this here for future reference. White Post uses a 1.00" and 0.70" OD lip seal on the earlier purple valves. FWIW, this valve is stamped 267-5

Quote from: gt350hr on May 11, 2020, 04:13:37 PM
  BTW there are two different types of "internals" . The kits only work with the FAR more common "later" version. The "early" valve is anodized light purple (for reference).
     Randy

Circling back on this to share what I found and also ask Randy what in the kits doesn't work with the early purple anodized valve which is what I have?

1.) Inside clearly had signs of rust on the un-sleeved part of the cylinder which started to find its way past the rubber o-ring on the end cap. How moisture found it's way in is a mystery.

2.) According to Parker Hannifin, o-ring materials react differently with DOT3, 4 or 5 and EPDM is recommended for all. Most o-rings like Danco sold in hardware stores are Nitrile (NBR)

3.) I don't know what White Post uses but the o-ring on the end cap had a thickness of 0.0955". For comparison, a #17 Danco measures around 0.1025". I bought 119-E70 EPDM 70 o-rings which are around 0.1050".

4.) These measurements don't sound like much but the cast iron where the o-ring sits has some minor pitting. Machining that smooth would open the gap to fill with the o-ring and in the end likely create a bigger leak.

5.) The final piece is the c-clip on the end. The one from White Post measured 0.0500". For comparison, I bought a few at Ace that ranged from 0.0500 to 0.0520". This matters because when the adjusting screw and spring are tightened, they want to push the end cap away from the body and reduce the sealing potential of the o-ring.

6.) Between the o-ring and c-clip I reduced the area to be sealed by around 0.0115" (between the red and blue lines)

Back to Randy's comment, mine is the earlier valve so the o-rings mentioned and measurements may not be relevant for later valves.

Also FWIW, I bought some extra EPDM and Nitrile o-rings and soaked each in DOT 5 and DOT 3 for a week and the only measurable swelling was the Nitrile rings in DOT 3.

Steve-