SAAC Forum

Quote from: s2ms on May 24, 2020, 06:03:04 PM
Did you flush the valve after getting it back from White post? Confirmed recently they assembly and test their rebuilds using Dot 3.

Yes I did take it apart and clean it before adding DOT5. All lines and rear cylinders were new, Jim Cowles did the front calipers for DOT5 and the MC was cleaned and previously had DOT5 for 25+ years. 

The vette thread I was looking at is: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c1-and-c2-corvettes/3887928-how-risky-is-using-dot-5-a.html

It seems that WhitePost and LoneStar both say the silicon fluid is not compatible with "their" seals which brings me back to who makes seals and o-rings that are still compatible with silicon fluid?

I know Scott Drake makes a kit but can't find any info on the material used or compatibility with DOT5.

Another good thread with o-ring and seal specs: https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/1035929-66-gt-proportional-valve-issues.html

I plan to pull it apart this week to see whats going on and measure the seals before they have a chance to dry.

Quote from: OldGuy on May 24, 2020, 02:36:47 PM

Quote from: sg66 on May 24, 2020, 01:31:02 PM
Whitepost rebuilt mine 4 years ago and when I took the car out of storage this spring, there was a small puddle of fluid on the ground. I've traced it back to the rear of the prop valve, probably o-ring. I use DOT 5 and have read it can cause newer rubber to swell. Anyone else run into this and are there replacement o-rings that are better suited for this? The brake pedal is otherwise firm and doesn't go to the floor.

I am surprised that you had that type of o-ring failure using DOT 5 fluid. I wouldn't have been as surprised if you were using DOT 3 or 4 fluid. DOT 5 fluid is a very "inert" fluid that is reasonably compatible with many o-ring materials. Having said that however, the recommended o-ring material for either glycol-based (DOT 3 and 4) or silicone-based fluid is ethylene propylene (EPDM). This information was taken from the Parker Hannifin O-ring Handbook.

I hope this helps.

Frank

I was reading on a Corvette forum that back in 2015, the EPA changed manufacturing regulations which may have effected rubber parts. I can't find the original thread but this is what they were referring to.

Corvette Stainless Steel Brakes voids warranty if silicone fluid is used: http://cssbinc.com/dot5warrantynew.01.pdf

Links to EPA page: https://www.regulations.gov/document?D=EPA-HQ-OPPT-2009-0767-0031

Whitepost rebuilt mine 4 years ago and when I took the car out of storage this spring, there was a small puddle of fluid on the ground. I've traced it back to the rear of the prop valve, probably o-ring. I use DOT 5 and have read it can cause newer rubber to swell. Anyone else run into this and are there replacement o-rings that are better suited for this? The brake pedal is otherwise firm and doesn't go to the floor.

Niko goes by GREXIT on the site and is the tech guy who brought the first version (2003 - 2011) back to life and is merging with version 3. I believe version 2 is still down for the count.

Fred Ballard has more details

Quote from: acman63 on January 16, 2020, 08:40:44 PM
what lies underneath should be interesting on a original 6 cylinder car

For the record, that was the 2016 Ford GT Lé Mans EcoBoost 6 cylinder prototype 

Quote from: BGlover67 on January 15, 2020, 09:17:50 PM
Wow, I apologize, I missed the real gem of this seller's collection:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-Shelby-GT-350-CR-HARD-TOP-RETRACTABLE-RARE-1-OF-3-IN-WORL/193273719971?hash=item2d0002eca3:g:~Z4AAOSwPsBeBQas

An orange and blue 1964.5 Shelby for $700,000!  "the color design was a "one up" on Carroll's love of the light blue and orange paint scheme on the original GT 40. "  Really?

Oh cool, this is a 64.5 Chip Foose Shelby prototype. I have a picture with my arm around AJ Foyt so now my car is a 66 Indy prototype. I wonder if I need to stuff the fastback hardtop and glass into the trunk to get top dollar on eBay or would a "Caution Fan" sticker do the trick?

Quote from: shelbydoug on January 12, 2020, 07:53:22 AM
Certainly after deciding on the side exhausts with glass packs, a little banging here and there in the rear was hardly noticeable?

Finally someone stating the obvious + solid lifters ^

I've had a locker for 40 years, yes you get the occasional bang at 40-50+ MPH as it locks and you look in the rear view expecting to see the rear end scattered all over the road and yes the car jerks a little but that and the clunking in reverse give the car character IMO. For a tribute, I guess it depends on how much you want to copy the original to get those quirks but there are obviously less dramatic options to stick both wheels to the ground

If "low noise" is the goal, there is always a Prius.

The gauges can be adjusted http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/mump-1005-ford-mustang-instrument-panel-troubleshooting/photo-07.html


Also a long thread covering other things that can cause the problem https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/fuel-gauge-adjustment.535407/

Quote from: Survivor on October 27, 2019, 12:58:55 PM
Looking for an original connecting rod for a '67/350 hipo/casting #C3AE-D.  Thx.

I recall that some rods had oil squirt holes and some didn't. Take up PR's offer first but if you find you still need 1 with squirt hole, I have 3

Quote from: mygt350 on October 20, 2019, 08:58:11 PM
The reason I ask these questions.. If the Pertronix module is simply a switch activated by a rotating magnet that takes the place of points that open and close based on rotation of a 8 sided cam that will wear over time, why must a different coil be used as well as increased voltage due to bypassing the pink resistor wire?

I've had Pertronix on a 66 with yellow top for 20+ years. Just checked and FWIW, it's a 27R-V3 module, red wire to Bat. black to Dist. on coil. Didn't alter any ignition wiring and can't comment on tach wiring for 65

Been away for the weekend and knew I had these pics. Crane 99820 is what I used 30 years ago and to this day have had no issues. You do need to machine the head slightly for them to fit but once they are done, you never see them. I don't recall that there were any available back then either that would fit without machining. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99820-16

Positive style and never worry about them again. Even if you need to have head machined for them to fit, once the engine is buttoned up you'll never see them

Quote from: Bob Gaines on September 03, 2019, 02:39:35 PM
Stains can typically be cleaned with spray carb cleaner . Not too much of a issue if you stay after it and don't let it build up over many months.

+1 on carb cleaner

I did this 30 years years ago by bead blasting then pressure washed at a self serve car wash and when dry, soaked it with WD-40. The claim is that WD-40 gets into the pores and seals the aluminum. 

I went to take a pic tonight and noticed some crud down by the bolt, I hit it with Brakeleen which cleaned it right up and wiped on some WD-40 circled in blue. The WD-40 should dry to the same color the next time the motor heats up.

This is also a fairly common practice for people who restore aluminum motorcycle heads.

Edit: added pic with better light and dried WD-40

Quote from: 2112 on August 24, 2019, 01:12:26 PM
For reference, here are the VCM springs

Those pictures reminded me, 42-437 number is the industry replacement number for 1967 cars, see page 33 http://springresearch.org/pdf/volume_17.pdf (you can change the volume in url to 16 for earlier cars)

When I did mine, I spoke with the supplier who told me they were rated for 1967 cars which were a little heavier than 65 and 66. Rather than stock specific springs for each year and model, they took the one size fits all approach. I had mine de-arched about 3/4" after letting them settle for a year which put the free arch right on the money for 65/66

I went through this a few years ago, Eaton is not the same company as OEM. The Eaton ends don't have the same appearance as the originals. Do what Bob said and get a set from VA Mustangs which have the same ends if you want to keep the original look. 

OEM were 110# http://mustangcodex.blogspot.com/2011_06_01_archive.html?m=1

If you do it yourself, check that the front bolts aren't frozen in the metal sleeves in the bushings first. If one or both are frozen, a 4 1/2 inch Dewalt cutoff wheel is thin enough to fit between the bushing and bracket. You would also likely need to rotate the bolt 180 degrees to make a complete cut. Cut the outboard first and hack out whatever rubber you can before going in with the wheel...hopefully your lucky enough to avoid all this.