SAAC Forum

To add some color to this, I was up there for a few weeks last month and the scenery is incredible. It would make for a great summer road trip even in a Pinto but in a Cobra...wow!

This is where they would have stopped to put their tops on (cruise ship side) as it is routine to only let 1 lane of cars or a train through at a time due to how narrow the tunnel is.

The only bear I saw in 2 weeks including Denali was off in the distance from the train somewhere around where these guys appeared to stay, go figure.

Cool, To celebrate here's a Ford GT with a sign saying not to take pictures of it

Just noticed that the Concours Mustang site runs on Simple Machines SMF 2.0.5
Boss 302 Exchange runs on Simple Machines SMF 2.0.11
This site runs on Simple Machines SMF 2.0.15 (likely a newer version)
Pictures are easy on Concours and Boss sites, can't be that difficult to fix here

Quote from: Chris Thauberger on June 12, 2018, 12:29:09 PM

Quote from: terlingua11 on June 12, 2018, 12:17:41 PM
...... well I just added the SAAC logo to my Avatar. I am a SAAC member. That's my stink'n badge-

Let's stay on topic...

Found this video showing how to post pictures https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qKpxd8hzOcQ

Quote from: Greg on June 10, 2018, 07:38:54 AM
I polled my 24 year old son and his response was WOW, you guys are years behind and he wouldn't fool with it.  Guys I believe we are we looking for new blood to join the SAAC aren't we.... as I look around, we are all getting old... LOL 

I challenge the supporters of the new way to sit your son, daughter, wife, or husband down and ask them to post a picture WITHOUT giving them the instructions and see what they say.

Then maybe you will stop defending a bad decision.

I asked my 21 year old and he suggested entering this into the Rube Goldberg machine contest https://www.rubegoldberg.com

Quote from: 2112 on June 09, 2018, 01:22:08 AM
We need more than 7 guys posting pics.

Make it 2 click simple. Just like other forums have been doing since 2005. 

Can it be done? Yes
Is it simple? No
Is it easy from a phone? No

I recently posted this pic of CSX2136 from SAAC 10. To do it, I used my iPhone to take a picture of a picture and post. It goes without saying that converting to a digital format is on me but resizing, loading, linking to a thread shouldn't be. I have lots of old pics, many I posted on the old site but don't intend to jump through hoops to make them fit here

Quote from: Dkutz on May 30, 2018, 10:48:16 AM
the body is a mess!  do you fix what is left?  Is it fixable?  Or do you order a kirkham body?

CSX 2136 at SAAC 10 was worse http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/224-300518192805.jpeg

By the way, what is the trick to posting images in a thread on this new site?

I ran into this car in October 2016 at a La Jolla classic car dealer after it returned from Scotland. Dealer told me it sold at the time for $425k. Can't load any pics, folder is full

66 Hipo vert is rare and in this case, it looks like most of the factory Hipo drivetrain remains even though a replacement radiator was added at some time. I also don't ever recall seeing a NJ factory GT without PIO on the buck tag. As others have stated, the number of 65 and 66 K and/or GT cars built by Ford will never be known

http://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/

Recent auctions have seen base cars with modern interior, suspension and drive lines sell for good money and I believe far more than any clone/fake/tribute. That applies across all brands and therefore a better build investment IMHO.

Tim, I have 3 with the squirt holes. You can take 2, I'll call you

Quote from: FL SAAC TONY on February 18, 2018, 09:28:05 AM
the one and only mobil 1

Do you mean the one of 31 15/50 for flat tappets...page 3?

https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/media/Project/WEP/shared/US/Products/Files/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf?la=en&hash=E90BBCD720E33CC2D008B961B7EC97C2C1C5491F

Quote from: Tinface on March 15, 2018, 06:11:31 AM

After about 100 very gentle brake-in miles 2148 started acting like it was running out of fuel. I discovered that if I pulled  the choke out when it started coughing and sputtering, it smoothed out, but when I pushed the choke in, it coughed and sputtered out and will die unless the choke is pulled out a bit

With no choke: it dies and off to the side of the road I go.

If I let it die, and sit by the side of the road .....for 5 minutes or so, it fires right up again and might run fine for several very controlled throttle sensitive miles; then it sputters and coughs and dies unless I pull out the choke and try to tease it on homeward bound.

Could it be a gas tank that has debris inside clogging the fuel system? The tank looks like it was replaced at some point because it looks spotlessly shinny tin on the exterior which would perhaps explain several cut wires right above the tank, and the fact the fuel gauge doesn't work, except a barely perceptible "movement " when the ignition is turned on. Im thinking the gauge itself works but the sending unit doesn't work.

Re-reading this today, it sounds like the first 100 miles had no issue? This would likely mean the float levels are probably not the cause....but still worth checking. The car is dying due to lack of fuel which you can temporarily correct by pulling the choke. So the question is whether there is a piece of debris inside the carb which temporarily is blocking normal fuel delivery or if the issue is outside...filter, pump, fuel line, sending unit. Check the float levels at idle first and then go for a drive. If/when the car dies, pull over. Do not try to crank the motor over yet. First open up the plugs on the fuel bowls. Does any fuel come out of the bowls? If no, shake the car side to side, any fuel? If no, now you know you have an issue getting fuel into the bowls. I say "bowls" because you would also need to check the needle and seat in the carb. If fuel comes out when you first open it, your issue is very likely a foreign object inside the carb which is preventing proper fuel delivery into the intake. 

I have a lawn tractor that was doing the same thing and turned out the gasket on the fuel cap had eroded and pieces of rubber had fallen into the tank and found their way to the outlet blocking most of the fuel from entering the line to the filter. Moving the throttle to choke would help it run for a couple seconds but eventually it would die. After sitting for a minute, the rubber would float away and the engine would run fine. Filters should prevent this from happening inside your carb but if it was rebuilt and a piece of gasket or something is floating around in there, it could have the same effect. Ethanol fuels are not friendly to many parts. Fred Ballard rebuilds the fuel pumps for these cars and uses parts that will not deteriorate from ethanol. The other oddball thing to consider is vapor lock but I was in Palo Alto a few weeks ago (right by the McLaren dealer) and it didn't seem hot enough where ambient temperature would contribute to vapor lock. That also usually takes more than 5 minutes of cool down time to go away.

My personal experience with a bad fuel pump was at SAAC 10 when there were a bunch of us doing burnouts outside the hotel parking lot. After a few, my engine would no longer rev beyond ~ 3,000 RPM's due to fuel starvation. I drove it home over 200 miles and had no issue as long as the RPM's stayed low.

I also had a friend with '58 MGA with a similar problem to what you describe. Carbs were getting fuel at idle, new filter but after driving, crapped out. Traced it back to an electric fuel pump with a canister like on '65 pumps that had filled up with rust and sediment from the fuel tank. When the rust settled, it could pump enough fuel but once the car started to move, it was enough to kill the fuel delivery.

Quote from: kjspeed on March 15, 2018, 10:54:10 AM
Mark, if pulling out the choke keeps it from stalling then it's not getting enough fuel. Could be fuel pump, filter, crap in the tank or carb issues. If the floats aren't set properly the float bowls won't fill up and it will starve for fuel. Same thing can happen if the needle valve is sticking

This ^

I would start with the floats (easy) and work back from there