SAAC Forum

I have an excellent 1 U  crankshaft  available.  Ive been saving it forever but havent used it.  Its standard on rods and mains  and has the IU  in the counterweight cast in. Still has the paint marks on it.   its been checked for cracks and no issues.  First $650  plus the shipping  which I will probably have to get a crate made to protect it   920 434 3645   paypal friends is preferred or check

Original 1965 case, C4AW part #.
Original 1965 yoke, same as 289 K code Mustang or '65 GT-350 Shelby.
Original bearing retainer, matching, came with this case originally.
5B6 dated case, 5B11 dated bearing retainer.
February 6, and 11, 1965.

Original Ford 3.89 gear set, C3AE-4210-C, excellent used gears, negligible wear showing.
Detroit Locker, 28 spline, excellent used.
Soft Locker type.

All new Timken bearings.
Solid crush sleeve used in the pinion set up.
Yoke can be removed if needed and re-torqued with an impact.

Properly cleaned & glass beaded and painted parts.
Quality work done on the set up and final assembly by an experienced builder.

snubber shield and C3AA bumper.
Parts came from Arizona/California cars.
Ready to install and use.

Correct for '65 Shelby GT-350 or '65 289HP Mustang.

$1995 with the snubber shield. 



SALE PENDING!

email sent

Im thinking same oil cooler as used on the Ford GT race cars

totally rare  we wore them until they were rags 

Quote from: 2112 on March 03, 2018, 09:58:03 PM
That makes sense.

I do like the idea of E-coat on the inside of frame rails etc tho.

Not a fan of e Kote or dipping.  we did a Boss 429 that the customer sent out to redi strip and then e kote.  Everytime that car got wet during the priming and water sanding the red strip would come out of the seams like it was not prepped properly and strip the e kote   when in reality how do you prep the inside of a frame rail - about the same as jet hot coating the inside of headers.  Not possible unless you would acid etch.  We had to power wash the car inside out .  blow dry and heat dry with fans for a day  then sandblast  the seams and epoxy primer before it stopped stripping itself.  He wasted about $2000

You need to check to see if you have the big spindles.  If you do  then 70 tie rods will work.  C8OA  spindles are small spindles.  DOZA  spindles have a larger tapered hole  for the tie rods and the shaft is also larger in diameter where the rotor mounts

Was that Wayne Currys tow rig?

  the picture is a factory photo of a 65 on the assemblyline at SA  with alloy T10 4 speed.  the starter I have is identical to that starter and I verified it with Bob Mannel by engineering number as proper for 289 4 speed cars with small bell housing flywheels

just saw one of the gangsters get in to a black and gold hertz  . anyone know if this was a real car?  had chrome magnums,  bullet mirrors

Quote from: acman63 on February 18, 2018, 02:29:42 PM
I have had this original starter for a long time,  I always thought it was too good to restore completely so I had my ace starter guy pull it down, check it out,  install new brushes and drive -  test and leave the exterior alone.  It has the original Ford Script,  original stamped metal cover which has been obsolete forever.  Ink stamp is 5DA  April 1965    engineering number on tyhe nose cone is proper C3OA. This is a starter for small flywheel   First $275  plus the ride  paypal friends and family preferred but  will also take mc/visa  or check   920 434 3645

original factory shot of starter

anyone know who the seller is?

WHAT SIZE IS THE CENTER HOLE?

Looking for restorable original  oilpan ,  send me pics and prices 

Quote from: Ldouble619 on February 25, 2018, 11:27:59 AM
Thanks for the in sight, Jim.  Do you have any for sale that are restored?

Its been hard for me to keep good 67-69s  in stock .   Ive got a couple month backlog on doing the castings