SAAC Forum

They look like generic hoses.  If there are no visible cracks and you don't have any brake pulling, I wouldn't worry about them right away.

I would be more concerned with the ripped ball joint boot and the tire rub.

I guess you'll know if it happens again.  There could be a groove in the axle where the seal contacts it as well.  If I go to the trouble of pulling the axles, I do both seals and gaskets and if I'm not sure about the bearings, I do them too.  Also a good time to change the gear oil.  Then I know I'm good for quite a while.

32' x 55' x 14'H.  3-10' doors with 5' between them.  Full attic above for parts.  Tire machine and balancer against the pillars between the doors.  Brake lathe against the wall by the lift.

The wife called it the Garage Mahal.  It used to seem huge.  Now, not so much.  It was great until my boys hit their teens, now it's always a mess and I can hardly bring myself to go out there.  Maybe they'll move out someday and I'll get it back.

I did a bunch of my horns a few years back.  I carefully ground the waffled part of the rivet off and drove the rivet out.  Cleaned everything up and coated with rust inhibitor, similar to Boeshield.  I made my own gaskets from the heaviest brown paper handle bag I could find.  I put them together with nuts and bolts to test.  Alignment of the holes is critical to good tone.

After I was happy with the function, I decided to make the look right.  I put the original rivets in the lathe and cut the shoulder back a little, about .050", if I remember correctly.  I then took a punch and ground the waffle pattern into the face and replaced the nuts and bolts one at a time using a clamp next to the rivet I was working on.

If it's gear oil, it would be the axle seals.  The seals are pressed into the axle tube behind the bearing.  "Axle gaskets" as you called them don't stop the oil. It's a rubber seal versus a paper gasket.  Axle needs to be removed to replace either.  Best of luck.

It won't prevent a fire, just delay it until you are driving your car!

Any car thief that can't get past that isn't going to have a very successful career.

To every other person in the world, it's a rusty core, and only worth a couple hundred bucks.  The only person he can sell it to for more is you.  Don't let him gouge you too bad.

It's a rare 64 1/2 Shelby.  P/S, P/B, A/C and generator

10 seconds X 19,365 posts = about 54 hours

Looks like rectangular reflector on quarter panel.

Try using some double sided tape and attach a desiccant pack to the back of the cup.  Make sure it doesn't touch or interfere with the gauge.

I remember, as a young tire toad, installing studs in snow tires.  Pretty tedious job.  Surprised I never put one in my finger.

I never knew the maroon car was sold from Cate Ford.  I chased that car for a while and didn't hear it was going to Mecum, so I missed out.  I ended up with 0181, another Cate Ford car.  I wonder if they were on the lot at the same time. Probably not, since 0181 was sold to Haven leasing on 3/19/68.

I got mine from Brown's directly.  I don't see them on the website anymore, but maybe worth a call.

http://www.brownsautobodyservices.com

If you are concerned about matching the date code, 7G is the date code (7=1967, G=July).  Check the other pieces of glass and use that as a range.  Coupe, convertible and fastback are all different.