SAAC Forum

I just found out, through feedback on this forum, that my speedometer needle bounce, at low speeds, may be because of a kinked or dry drive cable, rather than an actual speedometer issue. That's a relief, because I may be able to fix it myself rather than having to send my speedometer out for a repair, that it may not need.

Recommendations were to add a graphite lube down the speedometer cable assembly, replace the drive cable if it's kinked, or replace the entire speedometer cable assembly.

It seems that if I choose to add a graphite lube it may be best to remove the cable to examine it for kinks and to better allow the lubricant to travel down through the cable sheathing. If the cable is kinked, can I use the cable from a reproduction cable assembly? I haven't seen an OEM speedometer cable assembly for a 4-spd, BB Mustang for sale in quite some time.

If working on the speedometer cable assembly doesn't fix the needle bounce, I guess I'll have to have the speedometer fixed.

Steve

Glad you got it fixed.

After I retrieved my car from the restorer I used, I had to return it for, among other issues, the rear deck not closing to lock unless I applied considerable force and multiple attempts. When I got it back, it worked much better. I asked about the fix and the guy told me he bought the wrong weather seal. He said he bought a fastback weather seal and it had the wrong profile.

Steve

Hello '68 Shelbyfiles,
Thanks for the 411 on the speedo cable being the possible cause of my speedometer bounce.
Steve

Hey Bob,

Thanks for the "heads up," and the succinct education.

I may need to have my '68 speedo repaired for a bobbing needle at speeds below 50MPH. I certainly won't be using that company.

Steve

"Viva Las Vegas" is one of my favorite movies. I'm an Elvis fan, an Ann Margaret fan, a fan of the song "Viva Las Vegas", and a Cobra fan. That movie presses all the buttons. I just noticed that there may have been two 2000 series Cobras in the movie, a white one and a red one. I couldn't get a good screen shot of the white Cobra but was able to get one of the red Cobra. What Cobras were used in the movie?



Steve

I like the sharp transition between the paint and the sanded letters and fins. However, it looks like the crinkle finish is more a sandy, granular finish. Might the WD-40 have contaminated the crinkle agent?

Steve

Here is a repro oil cooler assembly I bought from Jim Cowles, for my '68 GT500 w/AC. It was one of the last heat exchangers, if not the last, he had. I hope that Jesse, or some of his confidants might know where he got them.

I had heard that most reproduction heat exchangers had wavy fins, so I was happy to see straight fins on the one I got. It bolted right up to the original brackets that were on my car.



Steve

Quote from: deathsled on June 28, 2021, 11:03:13 PM
Intellectual curiosity drives me to ask how you will expose the silver on the valve covers once dry. Acetone possibly or? I genuinely don't know the methodology but I am curious.

I've finished the fins and letters prior to paint. Once I got the fin and letter finish I want, I then masked those areas and used a very sharp Xacto knife or razor blade to trim off any excess masking tape.

After the valve cover is painted, I removed the tape and finished off any rough edges with the Xacto knife, razor blade, or sand paper, depending on the situation.

Only once did I paint the whole valve cover, except for the steel parts. Removing paint from the fins and letters was too much work.

I've used an old oven to get the crinkle effect, but have also had good results using a hair dryer on a high heat and low air flow setting.

I hope this helps those wanting to refinish solid letter valve covers and reproduction T oil pans, should you want the repro oil pan to match the valve covers.

Steve

I never really thought about oil's ability, or inability, to keep additives in suspension, but it certainly makes sense that if oil sits without agitation for a prolonged period of time, heavy additives will settle. Is that really a consideration in a wet sump configuration? I ask because the oil pick-up is very close to the bottom of the oil pan, and it seems to me that whatever liquids are down there are going to be picked and pumped through a running engine, quickly producing a homogeneous liquid.

I know nothing of dry sump applications, so it seems to me that oil additive separation is a greater concern in a dry sump.

I find discussions like this to be very informative and interesting.

Steve

I think he's referring to the 6 stamped metal plates that are screwed to the body and cover the holes that were required to accommodate the T-bird tail lights. Surprisingly they are not shown in the 1968 Shelby GT 350/500 Illustrations, Assembly Procedures & Parts List manual.

I think they are a hex head, 1/8" - 3/16" dia by 1/2" - 3/4" long, black oxide sheet metal screw, or something like that.

Looking for the above referenced with a date code between early/mid Dec 1967 and early/mid Jan 1968, for GT500 built on Feb 14, 1968. Ideal date code would be 7M18 to replace my cracked manifold.

Steve

Quote from: alexgt350h on May 07, 2021, 05:01:59 PM
Have had a leaking oil pan so thought I would replace the seal.
Removed starter, dropped steering linkage, removed cross member and dropped pan.
All Good at this point.
Using Fel-Pro Gasket # OS 13260 C
Cork gasket on pan - perfect fit. End seals--- can't get them to stay in place. Seems to be to wide.

Any suggestions? Or maybe a different brand of gasket?

Also can't get pan to clear oil pump pickup - by about 1/8" , any ideas?
If engine was out of car it wouldn't be an issue.

Thought this would be a quickie-------WRONG!

If the engine was out before your ownership, is there a possibility that a previous owner changed the stock oil pick-up with an extended one, thinking it is necessary when using the T pan? I've had some guys recommend that I use an extended oil pick-up when I rebuilt a 289 HiPo, back in the '70s. I since found out, the stock pick-up is what should be used.

Steve

I agree, I like seeing the B-9 engine bay.

Are B-9 shocks the same size as non-B9 Mustangs?

It seems that the upper mount is an inch or two lower than other Mustangs.

Steve

Quote from: 8T03S1425 on February 15, 2021, 10:17:49 AM
The topic is interesting, as it points to another aspect of the business.

How was the manufacturer's warranty work covered on '66 & '68 Shelbys sold to Hertz?

I was wondering if the manufacturer's warranty was voided and if Shelby, or Ford, provided a reduced level of coverage, because the car was being leased to general public?

Steve

Some interesting information is coming to light.

My 1st revelation is that individual leases were a thing back in the mid-60s. I wouldn't a thunk it.

Leasing a Shelby through a leasing company is essentially a different way of financing the car and if it parallels today's leases, they'd be long(ish) term leases to a singular party during that term.

My question was really specific to Hertz's purchases to rent the Shelbys for short term; partial day, full day, several days. Daily rentals didn't get the reputation of being rode hard and put up wet, for no reason. Short term lessees don't typically treat a car with the same level of care as does a long term lessee, or owner.

I'm the eternal skeptic, and it seems to me that warrantors are always looking for a way to void a warranty claim. Citing that a vehicle was pressed into business usage, instead of pleasure driving, would be one such way that Ford/Shelby could make the repair a client pay versus warranty coverage.

I guess another consideration is that warranties were much shorter in the '60s than they are today. I guess if a Hertz client blew an engine or broke a transmission after Hertz had the car for 90 days, Hertz had to sort out who pays for the repair with the client.

The topic is interesting, as it points to another aspect of the business.

How was the manufacturer's warranty work covered on '66 & '68 Shelbys sold to Hertz?

I was wondering if the manufacturer's warranty was voided and if Shelby, or Ford, provided a reduced level of coverage, because the car was being leased to general public?

Steve