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Topics - 69 GT350 Vert

Pages: 1 [2] 3
16
The Lounge / Kissimmee mecum photos
« on: August 29, 2020, 08:47:56 AM »
My first auction.

17
I achieved excellent results with cold starting, no fuel percolation, perfect air/fuel ratios from idle to wide open throttle, elimination of hard hot restarting by installing a Holley Sniper EFI system.  My spark plugs are a beautiful light tan color 2 years, and 2,000 miles after install. 

I did not drill any holes or modify my car in any way to install this system.  A big help is the use of an aftermarket fuel tank with a built-in electronic fuel pump that fits perfectly and works with the Sniper.  It is OEM quality with baffling built in.  The supply and return lines are located in the factory fuel sender location.  I searched for a month to find this tank.  All others required holes to be drilled since the fuel lines came out of the top of the tank inside the trunk.  That was unacceptable to me.  Thankfully, I found this tank and it was less than $300.  A home run.

If you drive your car using ethanol fuel, and want it to start and run like your daily driver, this system can be installed for approximately $1,500.  It was the best classic car modification I have ever made.  Throttle response is so good now it blows me away.  Air fuel ratios are always perfectly maintained, as are the target idle speed you set with a touch screen pad.  I can monitor air/fuel ratio and coolant temperature at all times using the small screen I keep in my center console. 

The computer is located in the throttle body itself.  That provides the advantage of all wiring is hidden under the big air cleaner.  There are no separate boxes to mount under the dash or on the firewall, etc.  All you need is a wideband O2 in one side of your H pipe, a coolant temp sensor, and power connections.  I ran the blue power wire to the in-tank fuel pump through the interior so it is invisible from under the car.  That took some time to remove the interior. 

Here are a few photos of my install.


18
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Lowering springs ?
« on: August 05, 2020, 10:15:26 AM »
My car started sitting lower in the rear recently.  The lowering in rear started about the same time that I installed my rebuild engine that has more power than stock.

Would front 1 inch front lowering springs make it sit even? What brand and model springs have others used?  I have the original front and rear springs on the car now. Thanks

19
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / In need of rescue
« on: August 02, 2020, 11:04:12 AM »
Sitting outside all winter and summer in Pennsylvania.  It's a real shelby and owner says he will sell his house and live in the shelby before he sells it. 

20
Parts For Sale / 69 70 GT350 Auto Trans Carb
« on: May 03, 2020, 12:24:45 PM »
C9ZF D on base plate.

$350. Offers.


21
Up For Auction / Conelec EFI 1969 Shelby Auction
« on: December 11, 2019, 07:05:13 PM »

22
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Glued Wheel Recall - 1969 Shelby Wheels
« on: December 09, 2019, 03:46:00 PM »
Does anyone have a copy of the recall letter they can post?  If not, does anyone have the recall campaign number they can share?

Thanks. 

23
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Available - peak molding with fold over tabs
« on: November 29, 2019, 01:46:34 PM »
It might be common knowledge, but it was news to me.  Branda now sells a peak molding reproduction with fold over tabs.  The tabs are slightly longer than the originals.  I'm going to try one for the price, which isn't too bad IMO.  Link is below. 

http://store.cobranda.com/19shhopemo1.html

24
Wanted to Buy / Wanted: Original 1969 Shelby Front Bumper
« on: October 17, 2019, 09:14:32 AM »
I am looking to find one that does not need re-chromed for a driver-level car.  I prefer it to not have any large pits or missing areas of chrome on the top side. 

Email me at rjzink2@gmail.com

Thanks.

25
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Tail Lamp Screws
« on: September 09, 2019, 12:00:16 PM »
So a prior owner drilled out the stripped inserts for the stock screws in my tail light panel on my 69 Shelby.  They also used longer machine screws and a nut on the back side.  I don't feel like removing the tail light panel to fix this the right way.  Does anyone know if a screw exists that looks correct on the visible side, but will accept a nut on the back side where nobody can see it?  If so, could you tell me the size specs on this screw and nut so I can buy some?  Thanks.

26
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Pink resistor wire
« on: August 02, 2019, 04:31:29 PM »
I've confirmed my resistor wire is functioning and my pertronix coil is only getting 5.6 volts.  Does anyone know if the pink resistor wire under the dash on a 69 shelby has a removable bullet connector?  I want to bypass resistor and get 12 volts to coil without splicing into OEM wires.   Any ideas? Thanks

28
The Lounge / Groundhog removal
« on: May 23, 2019, 12:45:26 PM »
Anyone else ever use their Shelby to remove a live-trapped critter.  My wife insists we relocate them from our garden to a park.  I figured the Shelby was a good vehicle for transport. 

29
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Hood Peak Molding and Hood Grates
« on: February 09, 2019, 01:26:10 PM »
I've decided this is finally the year to put my original, restored hood on my car.   

Is it feasible to weld some fold-over tabs on to an older, reproduction peak molding?  The one I have is currently screwed to the underside of my repro hood and the screws are not in the original locations.  I also have a dented original peak molding that is missing the tabs (broken off).  I would rather not buy the newer, incorrect repro peak molding with screws for $300.   

Also, what type of adhesive should I use to glue the rear grates on the 2 rear hood scoops?  Was this adhesive painted black along with the underside of the hood?  If not, what color was the original adhesive? 

Thanks.



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