SAAC Forum

No affiliation to this auction or vehicle.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/shelby/gt500/2352194.html

Does anyone have a copy of the recall letter they can post?  If not, does anyone have the recall campaign number they can share?

Thanks. 

It might be common knowledge, but it was news to me.  Branda now sells a peak molding reproduction with fold over tabs.  The tabs are slightly longer than the originals.  I'm going to try one for the price, which isn't too bad IMO.  Link is below. 

http://store.cobranda.com/19shhopemo1.html

I am looking to find one that does not need re-chromed for a driver-level car.  I prefer it to not have any large pits or missing areas of chrome on the top side. 

Email me at rjzink2@gmail.com

Thanks.

So a prior owner drilled out the stripped inserts for the stock screws in my tail light panel on my 69 Shelby.  They also used longer machine screws and a nut on the back side.  I don't feel like removing the tail light panel to fix this the right way.  Does anyone know if a screw exists that looks correct on the visible side, but will accept a nut on the back side where nobody can see it?  If so, could you tell me the size specs on this screw and nut so I can buy some?  Thanks.

I've confirmed my resistor wire is functioning and my pertronix coil is only getting 5.6 volts.  Does anyone know if the pink resistor wire under the dash on a 69 shelby has a removable bullet connector?  I want to bypass resistor and get 12 volts to coil without splicing into OEM wires.   Any ideas? Thanks

https://pittsburgh.cbslocal.com/2019/07/17/pittsburgh-vintage-grand-prix-2019-main-events-preview/

Anyone else ever use their Shelby to remove a live-trapped critter.  My wife insists we relocate them from our garden to a park.  I figured the Shelby was a good vehicle for transport. 

I've decided this is finally the year to put my original, restored hood on my car.   

Is it feasible to weld some fold-over tabs on to an older, reproduction peak molding?  The one I have is currently screwed to the underside of my repro hood and the screws are not in the original locations.  I also have a dented original peak molding that is missing the tabs (broken off).  I would rather not buy the newer, incorrect repro peak molding with screws for $300.   

Also, what type of adhesive should I use to glue the rear grates on the 2 rear hood scoops?  Was this adhesive painted black along with the underside of the hood?  If not, what color was the original adhesive? 

Thanks.

I saw these on eBay and thought they look pretty nice for the money. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Shelby-Cougar-Park-Turn-Lamps-Reconditioned/132939027893?hash=item1ef3c895b5:g:PnwAAOSwIqxcVeGD:rk:10:pf:0

My right mirror on my convertible keeps moving out of adjustment every time I drive.  I assume the mechanism inside has gotten weak and the vibration from driving cause the glass to move.  Essentially, it is like driving without a right side mirror. 

Does anyone know if this can be fixed or do I need a new mirror?  Any advice is appreciated.   

Thanks.   

Does anyone know how to fix my twisted seat back on driver's front seat?  Not sure why, but it is twisting toward the right rear. 

Thanks.

This is an interesting read.

https://www.sema.org/files/attachments/WTC-2011-05-Bias-vs-Radial-Tire-Wheel-Fitment.pdf?__utma=95790915.1499687327.1527361338.1527361338.1527361338.1&__utmb=95790915.0.10.1527361338&__utmc=95790915&__utmx=-&__utmz=95790915.1527361338.1.1.utmcsr=google|utmccn=(organic)|utmcmd=organic|utmctr=(not%20provided)&__utmv=-&__utmk=264461127

I lost all steering yesterday as I backed my Shelby out of the garage into my driveway.  The p/s slave cylinder rod end nut backed all the way off and the rod came out of the frame bracket.  Fortunately, it happened at 1mph in my driveway.  I was driving my Shelby at 70mph 2 days before - I feel lucky to be alive. 

After some research, I found there is supposed to be a lock nut on the rod end threads that prevents the nut from backing off.  My Shelby had a hardware store hex nut installed with no locking nut as was factory installed.  I never noticed or knew about the lock nut. 

I thought I would post this so others can check their cars to make sure you have a lock nut installed.  The amk kit is F-1811.