SAAC Forum

Quote from: Fastback66 on March 08, 2018, 06:58:49 PM

That's good to know. What cam did you use? I'm rebuilding my engine now and I am considering Comp Cams 268H or something similar.

I used this cam.  Nice lope, but not over the top.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=896&sb=2

I installed a NOS transverse muffler and accurate repro H pipe, resonators 2 years ago on my 69 GT350.  It was very quiet with the stock engine and stock cam.  Last year, I had the engine rebuilt with a moderate performance cam.  The same exact exhaust system is now pretty loud and the car sounds like it has aftermarket exhaust.   

Nice photos and story.  Thanks for sharing.

Quote from: 2112 on February 27, 2018, 11:34:47 AM
I am surprised nobody (yet) has brought up the '69/'70 351W which in stock form was really kind of a package half way between the 289 and 428.

Of course in recent times, with head development and big inch stroker cranks, the 351W has become, arguably, the most popular Pushrod Ford platform.

I love my 351W that was built last year.  Stock heads, intake and exhaust manifolds, internal upgrades but stock stroke.

Plenty of torque for my convertible. 


https://youtu.be/PAiJ5kXd0w0

I've owned both. I prefer small block for a car to be driven.  Big block if you just leave it parked to look at.

I use Lucas Hot Rod Oil.  My engine builder recommended it.  It has high zinc and phosphorous.

The lift hooks do get in the way of changing 2 of the spark plugs so I leave them off my car.  It takes me all of 45 minutes to change the plugs on my GT350, which is about 4 hours less than on my ex '68 KR.   

So if you do take a hose to your Shelby, or get caught in the rain, like I did 3 times, what is a good way to dry the car off to prevent rusting?  I worry about rust in the rocker panel area of the convertible or down inside the doors.  I took the glass out of my doors and painted the insides with chassis saver.  I have a rust-free California car and would like to keep it that way, but as I get older, I am less afraid to drive it even if the weather is questionable.   

Maybe the california heat shield was different than non-california heat shields - not sure. However, this link below shows the way my 69 shelby gt350 came from the factory.  My car was initially sold in california.  The heat shield and s tube are 1 piece. 


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-351-W-FORD-MUSTANG-ENGINE-AIR-CLEANER-HEAT-SHIELD-AND-1969-70-SHELBY-GT-350/183063578315?hash=item2a9f7086cb:g:BTYAAOSwE0JY~PZk

I was happy with my results on faria gauges from this company. 

http://www.instrument-specialties.com/

Tony Branda developed a new repop version recently, but it does not mount the same as the originals did.  I will also need one of these eventually when I finally paint and install the restored original hood on my car. 

Test the turn signal switch in the steering column.  The brake light circuit passes through the t/s switch. 

If the Green wire into the box (trunk) is showing full voltage, then the
problem could be in the trunk box. BUT, if the taillight wire in trunk
(Green/Orn or Orn/Blu) is not powered when the brakes only are on for that
side, then the problem is in the turn signal switch area.

I used this place to restore my Faria console gauges with good results.

http://www.instrument-specialties.com/

I think we all put up with craziness from others during teenage years.  I don't hold anything against those guys that said and did things against me back then any longer. 

Most of them never earned more than $15/hour and some are dead, and/or in prison, now. 

Two of my best friends own Corvettes. 

My love of Shelbys and Mustangs occurred because the first muscle car I ever saw was a 1970 Mach 1 with a 428CJ.  My first car was a '70 Mach 1.     

I had an identity crisis when I registered.  I used to be 94Cobra, but am no longer since I sold that car.