SAAC Forum

Quote from: shelbydoug on December 13, 2023, 12:42:14 PM
There are two types that you can use.

The '65 type with the spare tire projecting through the trap door opening or the 66 type that does not affect the trap door.


I have used both. The '66 repro fiberglass panel needs no reinforcement. The '65 panel is reinforced within a few inches of the end projecting into the trunk. I think it is there to reinforce the panel for the spare tire? I haven't used that one in a while.

The better panel is the fiberglass reproduction of the '66 panel since it is already reinforced with integral ribs.

The original '66 panel was molded plastic. Someone attempted to document the actual number installed by SOA and they thought maybe around 100.

The problem with it is that it turns into "silly putty" from direct summer sun light or heat and flops around like a fish out of water. BY FAR the better piece is the fiberglass reproduction that people like Branda sell.



The '65 panel may look cool to you but it is an SOB to get the tire in there. It needs to be bolted to the "floor" which in that case is the top of the shock tower structure.
If you are going to put the car on any track with a Tech they are usually going to MAKE you remove it even if it is bolted in. That isn't easy and in the warm weather you will roast back there trying to do it.

It is also very slick, as in slippery with anything on it. Even water and because of that it really is useless as a package tray. The '66 has a lip built into it and can be used as a package tray with some basic precautions.


The wood on the '65 is just a piece of 1x2 glued with an adhesive similar to what we call Construction Adhesive now. It actually gets in the way when you are trying to install the panel.

I remember getting frustrated with it during installation. I removed it and reinstalled it after it was in.


An added benefit to these trays is that you are removing about 85 pounds of rear seat and folding platforms from the car. That is close to the single largest item you can remove to get the car weight down. The next would be going to plexiglass windows.

Thanks for the information.  It is the  1966 style tray so there will be no hassle with the spare.

I am helping to install a 1966 package tray in a 1965 fastback.  I noticed in the current Shelby American Annual a few pictures of the wood reinforcing.  I have a few questions:

1. How far back from the front is the lateral wooden support and how is it attached?
2. Is the self screwed only along the top or the lower trim panel, and is it screwed into the front edge of the lower trim panel as well?

Any help will be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Greek

Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 12, 2023, 08:54:02 AM

Quote from: greekz on December 11, 2023, 03:27:43 PM
I have been disconnecting the negative cable in using a rubber cap over the post for over 30 years.  No fires, no drained battery, no ugly add on.

+1 Real easy no problems. I've never used a rubber cap though. I just clean the terminal if it needs it. I got some caps though so will be adding them.

I use a rubber cap just in case while using wrenches they do not accidentally bridge between the positive and negative terminals.  I have noticed as I advance in age, my dexterity is not what it used to be.

I have never felt any anxiety by removing only the negative cable.  I suppose totally removing the battery from the circuit could be one more step to a peaceful nights sleep.  We all have to do what feels comfortable.

The negative cable provides the grounding for the entire car via the engine block to the firewall.  Without a ground, nothing in the electrical system functions.  Disconnecting the positive is another way to isolate the battery, but the car is has a ground.  I just prefer removing the ground.

I have been disconnecting the negative cable in using a rubber cap over the post for over 30 years.  No fires, no drained battery, no ugly add on.

Gentlemen, I did not post, but did not, and never will forget those brave souls who lost their lives that day due to the ineptness of the Roosevelt Administration.  It is not surprising in this day of political correctness and not proud to be American crowd, December7, came and went without so much of a mention.  There are those in our generation who will never forget.

Thanks for starting the thread.

Greek

1134 had numbers on the seats when I bought it in 1992.  I thought it was strange at the time, but it is nice to know it was factory.

Just received my Annual.  SAAC, thanks very much!

Quote from: Blackcar on November 10, 2023, 11:49:04 PM
#1 is day shift #2 is time of day 8am 3 and 4 I don't have an answer.

Thank you for the clarification of the at least 2 of the 4 dots.  Maybe someone else knows about the other 2 to dots.

Greek

Quote from: Blackcar on November 10, 2023, 12:12:16 AM
The circle of numbers is the clock indicating what time of day the part was cast. The single dot above the screw indicates day shift and the numbers 1 3 5 7 9 are the hours of the day. In this case the part was cast at approximately 8 am. The slot in the center of the clock was used by the foundry worker to insert a tool to turn the clock as the work progressed. 

Thank you very much for the explanation.  It seems much clearer now.  I, too, wonder about the other dot outside the clock.

Greek

Need some help reading the clock code on my 1967 GT-350.  Thanks in advance.

Greek

Try Shelby Parts and Restoration, 920-434-3645.  I bought a set from them several years ago.

Very cool, thank you for sharing.

Quote from: trotrof1 on October 25, 2023, 09:57:55 AM
It might be lighting anomaly but sorta appears to be a crack in the LH leading flange on the T10 @ 18:29.

I noticed that as well.  It looked a little funky to me.